Carb leaking Fuel (1 Viewer)

[Beehanger]

Hey fellas,

Installed this chinese carb on my newly rebuilt 2f, and after running the 2f/break in its apparently started to leak -- fuel. The sight window didn't show gas up to the level like i've seen this carb properly do befoore. Wondering what's going on here and the fix --- and most importantly if I can take off the carb and not have fuel leak everywhere when I replace the exahust gasket.

Having vacuum leak problems, could this be the sorce of the problem for vacuum as well?

Importnat detail: I did NOT isntall a carb gasket between the carb and the carb insulator, is this my mistake?

Hope to join you all on your fall cruises soon, gotta get this thing to run better.

Dan

 

[Paullus]

Hey fellas,

Installed this chinese carb on my newly rebuilt 2f, and after running the 2f/break in its apparently started to leak -- fuel. The sight window didn't show gas up to the level like i've seen this carb properly do befoore. Wondering what's going on here and the fix --- and most importantly if I can take off the carb and not have fuel leak everywhere when I replace the exahust gasket.

Having vacuum leak problems, could this be the sorce of the problem for vacuum as well?

Importnat detail: I did NOT isntall a carb gasket between the carb and the carb insulator, is this my mistake?

Hope to join you all on your fall cruises soon, gotta get this thing to run better.

Dan

View attachment 3436197

I think you need a couple more photos zoomed out more and from other angles cause I really can't tell what is going on with this one photo. I think I made my own gasket between the carb and the insulator. Did you get the Partol FJ40 carb off of Amazon?

 

[OSS]

The only fuel captive in the carburetor is whatever is remaining in the float bowl. You can safely remove the carburetor even when the float bowl is full and no fuel will leak out.
Not a problem.
Yes if the base of the carburetor isn’t sealing tight on the manifold, you can get a vacuum leak or fuel leak - when the engine is running.

 

[Skreddy]

Every one of the Amazon carbs I install gets a full rebuild out of the box. I’ve seen passages not drilled or drilled wrong, mating surfaces not flat, broken or folded gaskets, missing parts, loose machining debris in passages, etc. these carbs can be decent but usually need some work.

 

[Beehanger]

Every one of the Amazon carbs I install gets a full rebuild out of the box. I’ve seen passages not drilled or drilled wrong, mating surfaces not flat, broken or folded gaskets, missing parts, loose machining debris in passages, etc. these carbs can be decent but usually need some work.

Would you be open to rebuilding mine for me?

I'm in Idaho, not too far.

let me know,

Dan

 

[Beehanger]

Every one of the Amazon carbs I install gets a full rebuild out of the box. I’ve seen passages not drilled or drilled wrong, mating surfaces not flat, broken or folded gaskets, missing parts, loose machining debris in passages, etc. these carbs can be decent but usually need some work.

Define a full rebuild? All i have is a keaky gasket in the middle. any thoughts on if I can just replace this gasket amd the other easy one and not worry about anyhting else?

If so, any udeas on where I can get just 2 gaskets without a full kit?


Dan

 

[Skreddy]

Define a full rebuild? All i have is a keaky gasket in the middle. any thoughts on if I can just replace this gasket amd the other easy one and not worry about anyhting else?

If so, any udeas on where I can get just 2 gaskets without a full kit?


Dan

I go through everything using the kit from cruiser outfitters. The issues I’ve seen with these carbs are mating surfaces often not flat and need filed. Passages have slag and machining debris. Passages drilled in the wrong locations or off center. Screws/jets not screwed in tightly.

Your leaky gasket in the middle is probably because the two mating surfaces aren’t flat. Surfaces need to be filed or fine sanded flat. This will get debris in the passages that needs cleaned out. Since it’ll be apart, may as well go through the whole thing. You could try doubling up gaskets or something as a crutch, but I wouldn’t advise that.
“Do it right or do it twice”.

 

[Skreddy]

Here you can see some of the mating surface unflatness as they’re being “machined”. (Smooth file followed by fine sandpaper over a flat surface).

 

[Beehanger]

Carburetor Rebuild Kit - Fits 8/1980 - 8/1987 FJ40/60 (CARB61171) - https://cruiserteq.com/carburetor-rebuild-kit-fits-8-1980-8-1987-fj40-60-carb61171/ IS this the kit?

Have a carb a 40 series owner gave me, gold plating. This is the carb he ordered I bleive, but its years through 68-87 so its hard to know which kit to order. Thi is the Carb: Amazon product ASIN B07FQJ65N4

Will any of the cruiser outfitter kits work? which one should I order?

 

[Skreddy]

The kit you listed is the one I get when I’ve done the Amazon carbs.

 

[Beehanger]

Disassembled last night. gunna go in with a smooth file then 250 grit sandpaper on the middle surface. Curious what to do on the bottom here? Both were leaking, and theres some nice surface scratches on the bottom by the butterflies. I'm avoiding fully disassembling beyond this as there was nothing wrong that i could tell with the spacer gaskets/mating surfaces and im not confident i could get it back together.

Other important questions i have before I try to complete this tomorrow (*forgive me for the length of questions!!*:

Can spraying some carb cleaner in all the vacuum passages and then air hosing em out get all the old gasket scraps that fell in out?

how should I fix the bottom mating surface, and does anyone ever put a gasket there? It seems if i were to sandpaper it, the throttle body gets in the way of it being flush to a surface as you can see. Is it worth disassembling and sanding this down if its leaking, or trying a gasket?

Is 250 sandpaper good for a final pass on all mating surfaces?

My float is seemingly messed up, as it is completely drooping and the pin that held it

Finally, looking at the last photo, there's the hinge for the float that won't allow any flat sanding. what's the workaround here and approach to get the material off and flatten it?

And, finally, For the first photo, The top gasket and black circle spacer need to come out as both are toast. I have a replacement spacer and gasket. any recs on cleaning this surface properly and removing old material? And, of course, installing the new top spacer (is glue required?)

Thanks in advance for any advice on this, maybe Ill have dreams of fuel injectors tonight!

Dan

 

[kirvesmies]

@Beehanger , i'd not use a file. emery cloth or sand paper on a sheet of glass. that way you're not trusting your hands to keep the file parallel to the surface you are filing.

 

[Beehanger]

@Beehanger , i'd not use a file. emery cloth or sand paper on a sheet of glass. that way you're not trusting your hands to keep the file parallel to the surface you are filing.

on the bottom mating surface as well? and will this clean off all the old gasket material properly?

I have a sheet of metal. no glass on me as of now.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[kirvesmies]

on the bottom mating surface as well? and will this clean off all the old gasket material properly?

I have a sheet of metal. no glass on me as of now.

Thanks,
Dan

the old gasket material should be removed before sanding on the flat. you may have to finesse it off. just take your time, it'll come off. if you try to surface with it on, it comes back to not being flat as in one spot you're removing metal n in another spot you're still removing gasket material. are you sure that metal is flat, like i mean p!$$ on a plate flat? get a pc of glass, should be able get a drop from a glazier shop. a pc 12-16 inches square. yes, do all surfaces, gently