can't get tie rod ends off tie rod

[BadReligion]

Just ordered up some new TREs from Cruiser Outfitters and am running into some install problems. Had no problem getting the tie rod ends loose from the steering knuckles but I cannot get the TREs off the actual tie rod.

Loosened the lock down clamps on both ends. Used lots of heat, penetrating oil, repeat. I also tried placing one of the TREs in the steering knuckle, then attaching the other end to a 4ft cheater bar and still nothing! The amount of force I was using was starting to bend the tie rod. Any other suggestions?

I am thinking about just ordering a new drag link and tie rod, installing the new TREs on them and using my old ones as trail spares.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

It can be an issue and require at lot of time. Many do just order a new tie rod for the same reason.

 

[BadReligion]

It can be an issue and require at lot of time. Many do just order a new tie rod for the same reason.

I think that might be the easiest solution. Any recommendations other than OEM for a new tie rod and drag link? At least for the tie rod, I don't have a ton of clearance around the control arms (the PS control arm would lightly rub on occasion) so I don't want anything that has a significantly larger OD. Also, would adding a little anti seize on the new TREs help prevent this from happening again in the future?

 

[sggoat]

I have one tie rod and one relay rod for a 77 - both brand new(OEM)also have the old tre's from the same 77(they seem to be in good shape) replaced these as I was doing the knuckle rebuild and wanted all new stuff-the rods come from Toyota with only one tre, so I had to buy TWO rods to get both ends. Now I have spare rods--don't know if these will fit yours or not--I can't use them, so ----

 

[RDC76]

Try soaking in brake fluid over night and then use heat again and gently massage it with an air hammer. That's how I got mine off. Brake fluid is actually a good penetrator and the air hammer used properly can separate and break free the rust lock.

 

[BadReligion]

I have one tie rod and one relay rod for a 77 - both brand new(OEM)also have the old tre's from the same 77(they seem to be in good shape) replaced these as I was doing the knuckle rebuild and wanted all new stuff-the rods come from Toyota with only one tre, so I had to buy TWO rods to get both ends. Now I have spare rods--don't know if these will fit yours or not--I can't use them, so ----

Try soaking in brake fluid over night and then use heat again and gently massage it with an air hammer. That's how I got mine off. Brake fluid is actually a good penetrator and the air hammer used properly can separate and break free the rust lock.

I gave up and just put the old tie rod and drag link back on. Going to give Slee a call Monday morning for their HD units and then keep mine as a backup.

 

[Golgo13]

Mine were locked with rust pretty bad. I soaked them several times with WD40 rust penetrant. Then I clamped the rod in a vice. Finally, using the closed end of a 24mm wrench, I hooked on to the ball stud of the TRE and used all my weight to twist it loose. Once the rust freed up they moved pretty easily.

 

[inkpot]

Lay the threaded section of the tie rod on an anvil or the back of a vice. Beat the snot out of it with a 3 or 4 pound hammer! Pound directly on top of the area where the threaded part of the TRE is inside the tube. Roll it around so you can hit it everywhere. All of the rust and corrosion will be pulverized. Use lots of anti seize during reassembly. John

 

[ton504]

I like to buzz it with my air hammer. Well anything thats seized.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I got mine off with a vise, pipe wrench, and 5lb sledge. My vise isn't mounted so I put it on the floor and stood on it. I was almost to the point of ordering a new tie rod.

 

[BadReligion]

Glad I'm not the only one having problems removing TREs. I am a bit surprised though because my 80 is rust free and I have never had an issue with any other bolt or fastener....at least not one that a torch, BP blaster and 5lb sledge or impact wrench couldn't fix.

Anyway, have the new tie rod and drag (relay) on the way from Slee. Should be here on Weds. I plan on using a liberal amount of anti seize when re assembling with the new 555 TREs. Funny how preventative maintenance almost always leads to some sort of "upgrade."

 

[1973Guppie]

trail gear also sells an upgrade kit for the 80 series, I went with that and it came out great....

 

[richardlillard1]

Diesel and a big f'ing hammer worked for a buddy of mine. The hammer being used in the method Inkpot mentioned.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Glad I'm not the only one having problems removing TREs. I am a bit surprised though because my 80 is rust free and I have never had an issue with any other bolt or fastener....at least not one that a torch, BP blaster and 5lb sledge or impact wrench couldn't fix.

Anyway, have the new tie rod and drag (relay) on the way from Slee. Should be here on Weds. I plan on using a liberal amount of anti seize when re assembling with the new 555 TREs. Funny how preventative maintenance almost always leads to some sort of "upgrade."

Mine were rust free as well. I was quite surprised how tough it was to get them off.

 

[crispy21]

Just did the same job with the Slee rod and drag link. Very stout bars.

 

[half k cruiser]

Nobody is mentioning ATF and Acetone ? A good soak with that, then liberal use of the hammer as @inkpot mentioned. That said I damn near bought a new rod last time I did this. It took two of us jumping up and down on my biggest pipe wrench to get them off.

 

[BILT4ME]

Now, for when you get it replaced and swapped out: When you get done with your adjustment, hopefully the slit in the side of the bar will be pointing down.

Either way, I always pump the slit full of grease after the tie rod is installed so it keeps out the rain, mud, and gunk. We did this with all our trucks and wagons on the farm and never had a problem like I had with the TR on my 80. After I got mine all apart and cleaned up, I gooped both the rod and the TRE with liberal amounts of anti-seize, got it adjusted and aligned, then filled the cavity with grease. Solves a problem in the future.

I also turn the clamp so that the bolt is on the TOP of the TR in an area it won't interfere, so there is less chance it will hook on grass, twigs, stick, and fences that I find in the grass.

After I pump the slit full of grease, I usually go have a cigar.

 

[FromTjtoLC]

About to do this same thing. Any reason not to spend the $220 and go with slee's upgraded tr and dl? Seems like a pretty good deal for and upgrade that works with your stock ends.

 

[Golgo13]

About to do this same thing. Any reason not to spend the $220 and go with slee's upgraded tr and dl? Seems like a pretty good deal for and upgrade that works with your stock ends.

Because it is $220 (not free-ish) and why does it need upgraded? The tie rod is a fuse of sorts to prevent damaging the steering gear box...

 

[FromTjtoLC]

That's pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things. I haven't checked yet but is our tr and dl solid or tube? That was the only thing I ever broke in my jeep and a solid rod fixed that. Just seems like good insurance to need it up a little bit and not have to spend hours banging on it with a hammer to get it off.