Can’t decide on a tire size, need help. (1 Viewer)

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So I’ve come to an impasse in my planning process. I’m waiting for a Dobinsons 2” IMS lift Kit to arrive and when it does, my next purchase will be tires. My GX came with the stock 18x7.5.

First, would it be worth it to spend the money to get 17” wheels? As in, it seems that there are more options for tire size/load rating combinations (specifically more C-rated, more on that later) for r17.

Let’s say I stick with my stock wheels (which is ideal), which load rating should I go with. I’d like to have a comfortable ride since this is my daily and I’ll off-road at most a couple times a month. I’ve read that SLs can be susceptible to punctures and generally get destroyed quickly. Cs seem ideal because they are rugged but not too stiff and lighter than the final option, E, but size options are limited. E seems to have the most sizes available but I’ve read a lot about people regretting what it did to their ride quality and overall vehicle performance.

When I first started out on this search, I wanted to go the route of the “Guinea Pig” build and go 275/70r18 E KO2. Now I’m settling into a 275/65r1Toyo Open Country A/T3 C-rated.

Are my considerations valid? Is the E that much more harsh than a C? Is the SL out of the question if I plan on doing some light/moderate off-roading? Should I go 17” wheel (RRW RR7-H) and start from there?

The future holds rock-sliders and a roof rack, but any serious body armor or bumpers is unlikely.

Any suggestions or advice are appreciated.
 
The only thing I can add is that I have the Toyo Open Country A/T III C load range size 285/70/17, and I really like them. They don't ride stiff like I've seen some complain about with E load range, and they balanced perfectly.

The other thing to consider is backspacing ... the stock wheels are set pretty far inward, so a 275 wide tire will be very close to the UCA.
 
Had the same dilemma earlier this year on the '11

I hated the factory 18" wheels...tires were useless

Took a few months but I did get $300 for all 5 OEM's/tires

So bought 5 new 17" Fuel wheels & 5 new tires......ouch....pert near $2800

Tires...LT265-70x17's---big improvement !! Yes E rated..no SL for me

Wheels are a 7 off set & 4.5 BS-------tires are Goodyear Ultra Terrains (2' lift)

nkkTgPB.jpg
 
The only thing I can add is that I have the Toyo Open Country A/T III C load range size 285/70/17, and I really like them. They don't ride stiff like I've seen some complain about with E load range, and they balanced perfectly.

The other thing to consider is backspacing ... the stock wheels are set pretty far inward, so a 275 wide tire will be very close to the UCA.
Good point about the stock offset, hadn't considered that.
 
Had the same dilemma earlier this year on the '11

I hated the factory 18" wheels...tires were useless

Took a few months but I did get $300 for all 5 OEM's/tires

So bought 5 new 17" Fuel wheels & 5 new tires......ouch....pert near $2800

Tires...LT265-70x17's---big improvement !! Yes E rated..no SL for me

Wheels are a 7 off set & 4.5 BS-------tires are Goodyear Ultra Terrains (2' lift)

nkkTgPB.jpg

Thanks for the insight. I'm really considering just going a similar route and buying some 17s. Really like your setup btw, what spare tire holder are you using?
 
I went to 17s for better tire options, I was wanting to switch anyway though. I do very much like the look of some stock wheels with beefy tires, usually means running a spacer to make it all jive.

I went 285/70R17 and am happy with size. They're C load range and I specifically sought them out for that. I've run everything from passenger tires to E load on my rigs, which get used about like you're seeming to describe, more overlanding offroad and not rock bashing up trails.

My opinions:

Passenger/SL: actually did ok for me offroad, but did get a bit eaten up. Not plagued by punctures (not a single one in 2 years running them)

C Load: is about the best compromise you can get IMO. Tough enough without the E load weight and ride. Notable con is availability in different styles/brands, there's like 2-3 out there in a 33" tire.

E Load: I've always been bothered by the ride of E load tires on lighter vehicles. Many in the GX don't mind them, but I just figured I found C loads I was happy with and didn't want to run them if I had a good enough option to avoid it.
 
Thanks for the insight. I'm really considering just going a similar route and buying some 17s. Really like your setup btw, what spare tire holder are you using?

RIGd Supply

works well enough

Fuel wheels


FsxXJ1l.jpg
 
A 17" tire will usually be cheaper than the same diameter/type 18". And as you mentioned, if you're out in the middle of nowhere and destroy a tire, you'll be more likely to find your size 17" tire than an 18".
 
A few things to consider:

You can pickup OEM 4runner wheels (non-TRD) for fairly cheap. I got a brand new set for $200... The guy literally bought a 2020 4runner and swapped his wheels at the dealership. The 4runner wheel is guaranteed to work (backspace etc) due to the identical frame. This option will get you into 17's cheap, with the option of upgrading wheels later if you don't like the look. I have 265/70r17 on mine.

I went from stock SL tires to 17" E-rated Falken Wildpeaks. I actually think that the ride quality got better. E is stiffer but 17" will be softer than 18". Don't be afraid of E. Personally I wouldn't be off-roading anywhere with SL's unless I was in dire straits.
 
Armed in Utah- Will that work with stock suspension? I have to park in a garage. About to roll my own rack.

You say 7offset and 4.5 back space... I need to find what factory is. Got's to be roll'n 17's!
 
A few things to consider:

You can pickup OEM 4runner wheels (non-TRD) for fairly cheap. I got a brand new set for $200... The guy literally bought a 2020 4runner and swapped his wheels at the dealership. The 4runner wheel is guaranteed to work (backspace etc) due to the identical frame. This option will get you into 17's cheap, with the option of upgrading wheels later if you don't like the look. I have 265/70r17 on mine.

I went from stock SL tires to 17" E-rated Falken Wildpeaks. I actually think that the ride quality got better. E is stiffer but 17" will be softer than 18". Don't be afraid of E. Personally I wouldn't be off-roading anywhere with SL's unless I was in dire straits.
4Runner wheels are a super cheap option. I bought two sets of the older trail wheels for $300 with lugs and tpms. I was initially hesitant about e rated tires as well, but after going from 40psi to 34psi in mine the ride improved. It wasn’t horrible to begin with, but dropping the pressure a little made me feel better about going that route.
 
Yea, info is confusing and sometimes contradictory.

I've not found a case that I can confirm where info on this site is misleading or incorrect ... but "caveat emptor" as they say: Lexus GX 2016 - Wheel & Tire Sizes, PCD, Offset and Rims specs - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/lexus/gx/2016/

Stock wheel size on the 14+ is 18x7.5 ET25, which I have verified by measuring.

This site says that the 10 - 13 stock size for US market is 18x7.5 ET52. I have not verified this, and there are some who believe that the "52" is a mistype and that it really is same as 14+.
 
why not some 17" FJ steelies?

<-- walmart link...not sure what the verify your identity bs is

you can find them on ebay periodically for like $50-70 a wheel. Get them powdercoated in whatever color you like
 
why not some 17" FJ steelies?

<-- walmart link...not sure what the verify your identity bs is

you can find them on ebay periodically for like $50-70 a wheel. Get them powdercoated in whatever color you like
This aren’t bad looking but aren’t steel wheels heavier in general? I feel like if I’m going to buy some new wheels I’ll spend the money to get something I’ll still like down the road. Also, the 2 reviews on those particular wheels ain’t so hot. Thanks for the suggestion though.
 
This aren’t bad looking but aren’t steel wheels heavier in general? I feel like if I’m going to buy some new wheels I’ll spend the money to get something I’ll still like down the road. Also, the 2 reviews on those particular wheels ain’t so hot. Thanks for the suggestion though.
you might look at Black Rhino, Level 8 or Fuel Wheels....they seem to fit the balance of budget/performance/size fairly well. You could look for a set of used wheels on ebay / craigslist etc. There was a use set of methods with BFG K02's on ebay a while back for like $800. If you really want to go budget friendly you could look at Vors, Motegi or MST wheels
 
For serious off roading, generally steel wheels or forged wheels that can be pounded back into shape if dented, is ideal. Usually the bead lip can get bent when on rocks and aired down. If you have a good size hammer, you can pound it back, air up and be on your way. Cast wheels will just shatter or break leaving you stuck if you've already used up your spare.
But you do need a good wheel to start with. I wouldn't go with the wheels above. I went to the link above for those steel wheels and I too was very disappointed in their build quality.
It'd be best to just get some genuine Toyota steel wheels if you're thinking about going that route.
 
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For serious off roading, generally steel wheels or forged wheels that can be pounded back into shape if dented, is ideal. Usually the bead leap can get bent when on rocks and aired down. If you have a good size hammer, you can pound it back, air up and be on your way. Cast wheels will just shatter or break leaving you stuck if you've already used up your spare.
But you do need a good wheel to start with. I wouldn't go with the wheels above. I went to the link above for those steel wheels and I too was very disappointed in their build quality.
It'd be best to just get some genuine Toyota steel wheels if you're thinking about going that route.
I’m new to off-roading/4x4 culture, so I apologize if my questions are redundant. I’ve never heard of a wheel shattering; is that a common occurrence or something that happens rarely under high-stress conditions? I don’t plan on doing anything too extreme that could potentially ruin my GX since I need it for daily driving.
 
I’m new to off-roading/4x4 culture, so I apologize if my questions are redundant. I’ve never heard of a wheel shattering; is that a common occurrence or something that happens rarely under high-stress conditions? I don’t plan on doing anything too extreme that could potentially ruin my GX since I need it for daily driving.
Unless you're doing some hardcore rock crawling, it's not an issue.
 

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