Can you tell me what I did wrong (FIPG woes)? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lasoundguy
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devo
SILVER Star
Yep, that’s the good stuff
devo
devo
- Thread starter
- #23
Just an update, filled her up with oil tonight and so far (about 20 minutes of driving plus three hours of sitting with the oil filled) we are all good. Appreciate everyone's input, as well as the additions to the "tools I didn't know I needed" list 
I went thicker on the bead (more like 6mm) and used the Permatex Ultra Black. Not sure if the FIPG failure was me or the paste itself, but I threw away the tube as I don't really think I made an obvious screw up (cleaned it up with brake cleaner extensively before both applications, etc.)
I went thicker on the bead (more like 6mm) and used the Permatex Ultra Black. Not sure if the FIPG failure was me or the paste itself, but I threw away the tube as I don't really think I made an obvious screw up (cleaned it up with brake cleaner extensively before both applications, etc.)
Good news! Now make sure you clean that putty knife real well before you go serving good company off of it.
Just an update, filled her up with oil tonight and so far (about 20 minutes of driving plus three hours of sitting with the oil filled) we are all good. Appreciate everyone's input, as well as the additions to the "tools I didn't know I needed" list
I went thicker on the bead (more like 6mm) and used the Permatex Ultra Black. Not sure if the FIPG failure was me or the paste itself, but I threw away the tube as I don't really think I made an obvious screw up (cleaned it up with brake cleaner extensively before both applications, etc.)
old news i know, hope your still leak free. I'm about to do an oil pan seal too, FWIW I think the OPs original FIOG bead was way too stingey, particularly in the little grooved areas.
The pan I just took off mine looked to have original OEM FIPG on it, and I guarantee the factory used 10 times the amount of what is pictured. There was a good 3mm thick oozed out bead on the outer, and inner edges of both top and bottom pan when I took them off.
I also put a bead around all bolt holes
Hey Nemesis, where did you purchase the ThreeBond product?
Just a tip whenever using FIPG sealant...
apply the sealant on both sides, install the pan and tight the bolts just enough for the sealant to ooze out (like 1nm/1ftlb) and let it cure overnight. Then the following day torque up the bolts to factory spec...
The problem I see is the majority of people apply the stuff, tighten the bolts which causes all the sealant to ooze out. It means you’ve got very minimal gasket material between the two surfaces. Whereas if you let it set first it’s a nice thick layer when you tighten the bolts, giving a much better long term seal. It also means if it starts leaking in like 5+ years time, you can tighten the bolts a bit more and stop the leaks.
plus it prevents big clumps from forming on the inside of the sump, which can break off and end up blocking the sump pickup.
That and use fresh stuff from a reputable shop, too many expired tubes being sold cheap on eBay.
apply the sealant on both sides, install the pan and tight the bolts just enough for the sealant to ooze out (like 1nm/1ftlb) and let it cure overnight. Then the following day torque up the bolts to factory spec...
The problem I see is the majority of people apply the stuff, tighten the bolts which causes all the sealant to ooze out. It means you’ve got very minimal gasket material between the two surfaces. Whereas if you let it set first it’s a nice thick layer when you tighten the bolts, giving a much better long term seal. It also means if it starts leaking in like 5+ years time, you can tighten the bolts a bit more and stop the leaks.
plus it prevents big clumps from forming on the inside of the sump, which can break off and end up blocking the sump pickup.
That and use fresh stuff from a reputable shop, too many expired tubes being sold cheap on eBay.
- Thread starter
- #28
So about three months on and it’s been bone dry. I do think the thicker bead (and Permatex) was the way to go, I suspect a thicker bead with the FIPG I had might have worked but who knows.
Between the oil level sensor o-ring and the front pump cover seal (did beginning of summer, that was a pain) my 80s seepage level is almost nil. So much so, I bought a Land Rover as my driveway looked a little too dry.
It actually is new enough to not be a total disaster (2008 LR3) but man, the quality difference between the two is night and day. The one thing I have to give it though is it so much quieter on the highway. We have a camping trip soon where we plan to take both rigs so it’ll be fun to drive the same trails in the 80 and then the LR3.
Between the oil level sensor o-ring and the front pump cover seal (did beginning of summer, that was a pain) my 80s seepage level is almost nil. So much so, I bought a Land Rover as my driveway looked a little too dry.
It actually is new enough to not be a total disaster (2008 LR3) but man, the quality difference between the two is night and day. The one thing I have to give it though is it so much quieter on the highway. We have a camping trip soon where we plan to take both rigs so it’ll be fun to drive the same trails in the 80 and then the LR3.
bring a trailer so your 80 can tow the LR home....
"...my 80s seepage level is almost nil. So much so, I bought a Land Rover as my driveway looked a little too dry."
You know the old joke about LR's right, "If there's no oil under it, there isn't any in it."
"...my 80s seepage level is almost nil. So much so, I bought a Land Rover as my driveway looked a little too dry."
You know the old joke about LR's right, "If there's no oil under it, there isn't any in it."
DivByZero
SILVER Star
Local parts stores here in Australia carry it in stock. I've also bought it off ebay sellers sometimes to get it a bit cheaper and delivered.
FWIW, I popped open a (new) tube of Toyota FIPG I purchased 2 years ago to seal up a water tank this weekend. It had April2019 b-od. It performed as expected. 
FWIW, I popped open a (new) tube of Toyota FIPG I purchased 2 years ago to seal up a water tank this weekend. It had April2019 b-od. It performed as expected.
Trouble is there are several different FIPG (chemically different) so only by comparing what you used against another persons use (of the same product) is meaningful. Not to mention....we don't how the product was stored prior to purchase.
Improper storage and use past the products 'shelf life' can result in non/poor performance of the product. I've personally seen 'separation' of chemical components in FIPG's, a clear sign it shouldn't be used.
IF there is any doubt....a 'test' application should be conducted prior to application where a significant amount of work would be involved or 'time lost' will be a factor.
I'm also going to fo this project soon and bought the Permatex Grey as this was all they had at the time. Will this work for this job? Or should I go and switch to the black?
as long as its rated for use with engine oil its fine, or pick up a tube from the dealer
Agreed. Was just adding a data point.
To clarify, it was Toyota FIPG103.
I believe the Permatex gray is for gear oil, at least that is what the Permatex Gray said on it that I bought and used when I rebuilt my rear locker actuator a few months ago.
Amazon product ASIN B0023GM2KK
I wasn't willing to pay more or wait to get the FIPG red from Toyota. The Permatex Gray set up and worked great on my rear diff, I wouldn't hesitate to use it again. The instructions are very particular about doing the bolts finger tight at first, then waiting X amount of time (it's on the package), and then final torque. I did exactly as the package said, and it's held up great.
thats similar instructions to bedding in port lights and hatches in boats, letting the sealer set up x amount of time then tightening down to final torque creates a compression gasket
I have done many oil pans, gaskets, etc and never thought of doing this, but it makes TOTAL sense. Set the bead, let it cure, then torque to spec. I will be doing this method going forward. Thanks for sharing!
So now reading I see that the instructions actually say to do this. That's why I never knew about it!
Just consider the application before doing so. Appropriate in some cases....not so much in others. You choose the wrong application and later you could have 'compression set' or loosening of fasteners that might cause you an issue. The difference in what the factory used for a FIPG and certain permatex products is profound, they work differently. For instance Permatex gray will cure to a much softer product (durometer) than say Aisin AB1207B1 which cures overnight to a harder, rubbery like sealant. So it is wise to give thought to how you want the product to act/perform.
Is the job best served by using a void filling sealant/adhesive or by using a softer product that works via compression or more like an O-ring? There is a place for both. But generally....I will look to see what the factory did and follow suit (if not an emergency). Just food for thought.
