Can someone explain to me repacking bearings?

[2001LC]

@cruiseroutfit has them with or without wheel bearing & races. The bearings rarely need replacing IMHO. I don't like seeing anyone buy the full bag of snap ring with all sizes. Reason they will ultimately put in a thin one, like a 2.2mm or thinner. 2.2m is what factory installs. Fact is, I've never used anything thinner than 2.2mm and that thin is only when I've replaced nearly very component. Unless we replace spindle (knuckle), brass bushing, large bearing and race, hub flange and front drive shaft we never use even a 2.2mm. I most often use a 2.4mm, second is a 2.6mm and once in a blue moon use a 2.8mm snap ring. I like gap very tight.

When we grease the needle bearing & brass bushing. The area gets packed with grease. The grease needs settling or we get a false snap ring to hub flange gap.. Failure to settle to grease by pulling axle out very hard or driving and coming back to check gap result in so many putting one of those thin snap rings on..

I first became aware of grease needed settle with a great deal of pull, while using the Slee spindle grease tool. I added to much grease and made it very difficult to settle grease. So I grab what was lying around and made this pulling tool.

 

[PearlLX470]

I just attach vise grips (VG) to lip of seal, butt VG onto the side of knuckle and roll VG outward pulling old seal off.

I then clean the rust found just inside rim of seal seat. Using a wire brush or even better a ploy rust remove wheel. Once done inspecting, de-rust and condition of knuckle which may included replacing needle bearing & brass bushing (not often). I grease the inner lip and shelf where seal seats. Makes install easier and helps prevent future rust. I do same with all bare metal of knuckle.
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After grease seat area were seal will sit. I then place seal squarely into seat, and starting by pressing in with fingers. Then with a piece of wood flush on seal, I give a tap or two on the wood. Once I can see it's going in squarely. I give a good wack or two on wood, drive in seal. I come back with my brass dowel and hammer. Tapping down on first inner shelf of seal to make sure it bottomed. When done the seals lip will stand about 4mm above knuckle.

Tips:

1. I've learned it best to grease the needle bearing & bushing after seating the seal in, or cover them if greased. Reason is; my wood sometimes drop contaminants (wood or dust) into bearings. If not greased yet, I can just blow out any contaminants.
2. Also the wood needs to fit flush on seal at all times. If piece of wood too large it will hit a casting protrusion on knuckle, preventing wood from riding flush all the way down.
3. Using a hard-wood works best. Soft wood splinters and breaks.

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Thank you!

 

[NVDuckin]

Alright, well thanks to you guys I've decided to give it a try myself and am getting my parts/tools order ready.

Has anyone tried one of these StopTech kits? AutoAnything
Was looking at DBA, but I'm not sure I want to spend that kind of money.

Also, what's a good wallet-friendly torque wrench? Looking at Tekton right now. Thanks again for the help!