I was wondering if it would be fine to use the Permatex 80078 anti-seize lubricant for the caliper slider pin. I have seen various brands or versions of it and I'm not sure which one I should be using. Any suggestion/recommendation is much appreciated.
Can I use the Permatex 80078 anti-seize lubricant for the caliper slider pin? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Charlielj
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FWIW, I use the high-temp anti-seize for those.
- Thread starter
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Thanks! I just want to make sure it's not detrimental since I use the Permatex 80078 anti-seize lubricant for all my slide pins. I've seen Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant on Amazon and the page made it seemed like this is the right one to use instead of the one I have. So I just want to make sure I didn't damage my vehicles by using the Permatex 80078.
Just to be clear, I'm using this on the pins that retain the pads and not the sliders under the rubber boots on the rear calipers. Those I've left alone.
In that case I'm not sure what the correct factory lube is. Mine have remained free so I've left them alone. Where I've seen binding is on the pad retention pins, those I lube with the high-temp anti-seize.
I wouldn't overthink it. If they are gritty or dirty when you are doing work in there, clean and re-lube with your preferred lubricant. I use bearing grease because it's what I have on hand, but a lube like the one you've linked should be fine as well.
Most people wouldn't even service the sliders until the caliper has difficulty releasing. (I am the same way though - while I'm there I clean and re-lube everything).
edit: The grease I use: CV-2 Grease - https://www.redlineoil.com/cv-2-grease handles temps, is rubber safe and I can use it on CV joints, trailer bearings, UCAs, basically anything that has a zerk or needs grease in my equipment. The only other grease I keep on hand is anti seize for those bolts that are dissimilar or subject to excessive rust. There are plenty of high quality, multi-purpose options out there, but as is pointed out, there is a grease for everything. Greasing regularly (IMO) is way more important than nailing the exact right formula for a specific application. If someone sleeps better having a shelf full of 10 different greases for their Toyota truck, by all means indulge.
Most people wouldn't even service the sliders until the caliper has difficulty releasing. (I am the same way though - while I'm there I clean and re-lube everything).
edit: The grease I use: CV-2 Grease - https://www.redlineoil.com/cv-2-grease handles temps, is rubber safe and I can use it on CV joints, trailer bearings, UCAs, basically anything that has a zerk or needs grease in my equipment. The only other grease I keep on hand is anti seize for those bolts that are dissimilar or subject to excessive rust. There are plenty of high quality, multi-purpose options out there, but as is pointed out, there is a grease for everything. Greasing regularly (IMO) is way more important than nailing the exact right formula for a specific application. If someone sleeps better having a shelf full of 10 different greases for their Toyota truck, by all means indulge.
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Not all lubricants are compatible with rubber so I would recommend taking the time to determine what is correct. The lube needs to be both high-heat tolerant as well as not degrading to the boots.
To the op question: No, that is not a good idea.
For sliding pins there is caliper grease available at any auto parts store. Caliper grease is not to grease the pistons as some may think. It is for the pins. Hi end calipers like Brembo pistons require a special grease not common at auto stores. The rest of calipers including our trucks rear ones just use break fluid for assembly.
Back to op question, go buy some caliper grease (translucent) . Do not buy molibdem or general brake grease łblack) as that's thick and will make the pins hadr to slide in and out!
You can use the black one on parking brake. Some also use it under pads to quiet them, but there are much better products for that.
A good place to use the black one is on the surfaces on which pads are sliding inside the calipers.
TO recap for complete caliper overhaul you need 4 kinds of grease:
Piston assembly grease - special to interact with brake fluid, just use brake fluid if you don't have it
Pin grease - misnamed caliper grease designed for smooth sliding, resisting high Temps, no hardening over time, to work with rubber
Pads sliding grease - commonly known as brake grease, designed to rezist high Temps and resist washing away, being exposed to the elements
Pad grease - also known as quieter grease, it is to be applied on the back of the pads, it is quickly drying to a high viscosity, acting like a vibration dampner
For sliding pins there is caliper grease available at any auto parts store. Caliper grease is not to grease the pistons as some may think. It is for the pins. Hi end calipers like Brembo pistons require a special grease not common at auto stores. The rest of calipers including our trucks rear ones just use break fluid for assembly.
Back to op question, go buy some caliper grease (translucent) . Do not buy molibdem or general brake grease łblack) as that's thick and will make the pins hadr to slide in and out!
You can use the black one on parking brake. Some also use it under pads to quiet them, but there are much better products for that.
A good place to use the black one is on the surfaces on which pads are sliding inside the calipers.
TO recap for complete caliper overhaul you need 4 kinds of grease:
Piston assembly grease - special to interact with brake fluid, just use brake fluid if you don't have it
Pin grease - misnamed caliper grease designed for smooth sliding, resisting high Temps, no hardening over time, to work with rubber
Pads sliding grease - commonly known as brake grease, designed to rezist high Temps and resist washing away, being exposed to the elements
Pad grease - also known as quieter grease, it is to be applied on the back of the pads, it is quickly drying to a high viscosity, acting like a vibration dampner
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One more use for brake grease is as corrosion protectant inside the piston cups. Some calipers have pistons with the cup opening to the pad. Overtime water makes its way between piston and pad/shim and given enough time will rust the piston. Nothing bad functional but if you're like me hating rust, applying some of this high temp washing resistant grease will keep them like new.
scottm
SILVER Star
Brake grease *should* handle the high-temps involved in brake components, but not all are created equal. I've tried a lot of different high-temp lubes on brake pins over the decades, anti-seize is usually turned to powder when I do my next brake job, it doesn't hold up. Silicone brake grease can take the temps, but isn't all that slippery and washes away easily. Silicone brake grease with moly is better. I've used CV grease with good results, it has a lot of moly in it and is designed for high temps. The best I've found is Mr. Moly high-temp grease, with a drop-point of over 2000°F.
Moly grease is very slippery, great for sliding joints like driveshaft splines. Bad for rolling bearing joints like driveshaft spiders, too slippery, surprisingly. Use the right lube in the right place.
Moly grease is very slippery, great for sliding joints like driveshaft splines. Bad for rolling bearing joints like driveshaft spiders, too slippery, surprisingly. Use the right lube in the right place.
scottm
SILVER Star
I can't tell what is in each, but looks like mostly silicone grease, which is good to 500°F. That will probably be enough. I'd go for a non-lithium thickened moly grease, it will be messier but it will stick around. I used a tube of Volkswagen CV grease for years on all my brake pins, it was always still there on the next brake job. Except when my wife drove with the parking brake on and melted the rubber pin covers, but the pins still slid.
scottm
SILVER Star
I was looking at their high-temp copper anti-seize Copaslip Anti-Seize Compound 8.8oz Brush-Top - https://www.mrmoly.com/product-p/53472.htm
scottm
SILVER Star
I wonder where they get that temp from, when the carrier is still silicone? Maybe the ceramic in suspension will still lubricate after the silicone is dried up? Honestly, worth a try, see if it is still there when you do the next brake job.
On my Toyotas and Lexus, my brake pucks seize so often running at highway speeds in salt spray in Michigan, I end up replacing the calipers every few years and my pins don't get old. Hopefully my new truck won't suffer the same fate. Road Salt Life.
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scottm
SILVER Star
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