Cam's FJ60 Gets Sprung (1 Viewer)

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I still don't know what springs I am running. I'll have to see how the rear ends up.

Comparing mine to Mark's 80 - mine sits 1-1/2" taller measuring the bump stop to lower coil mount. He has Ironman heavies + a 1" spacer. In theory they should be pretty close. I can't imagine the Vortec is that much lighter.
 
Caster correction plates - they will rotate the pinion back down, right? That would be a good thing for me.

Which is a better set - Slee or Landtank? Either one offer more correction? Pros/cons of one over the other?

Searching the 80 section for answers gives me a headache :D
 
Physical progress is in a holding pattern for a few days, but I did play with the driveshafts.

Check out the stock 80 vs. my cut down 62... identical lengths!

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Sure enough, the @bhmmapping method worked like a champ and I made a hybrid out of the two.

The driveshaft is now stretched out another inch or so at ride height. I'll post a pic later on to see what the concensus is on whether or not I can run it as-is. If I need to lengthen it, these driveshaft spacers are the cheapest & easiest solution...

image.jpeg
 
Caster correction plates - they will rotate the pinion back down, right? That would be a good thing for me.

Which is a better set - Slee or Landtank? Either one offer more correction? Pros/cons of one over the other?

Searching the 80 section for answers gives me a headache :D

Slee plates raise the front bolt only so it will push the axle back a little bit - but they are very easy to install. I had ironman plates (similar design) on the old gold truck and it pushed the axle back enough to cause the rubbing with 37's and made it hard to bolt up the sway bars - but they were easy to install.

The landtank plates split the difference between the front and rear bolts to keep the axle stationary but you have to rent a special right angle drill and drill new holes through the brackets and the plates. Seems like a lot of work to me.

Probably best to get the springs sorted out first and figure out where you are before starting on the caster. 80's have to worry more about the pinion angle with the full time case, you should be able to just set the caster where you want it.
 
Sounds like the Slee's are the way to go. They did look easier to install, and they are cheaper. How far does it move the axle back?

I don't plan on starting the caster until the rear is done and get everything sorted.
 
Have you burned in the frame mounts for the control arms? You could play with it there

Yeah, those are on. But they are attached to a plate that I could maybe make a spacer and use longer bolts to lower it.

Once it is running & driving, I'll see how it handles and maybe have the caster measured and go from there.
 
It doesn't move the axle back at all. It rotates the pinion down toward the tie rod a bit. Definitely a help with steering stability at moderate lifts.

I have been quite pleased with the Slee arms and 4 inches of lift, but not sure exactly how that would translate into your 60/80. Plus, it's a lot more $ so try the Plates first.
 
My wife would not be happy when she has to work extra shifts to buy Slee arms and gears. That's her problem though, right?
 
My wife would not be happy when she has to work extra shifts to buy Slee arms and gears. That's her problem though, right?

I'll bet she'd find a way to make it your problem!
 
It doesn't move the axle back at all. It rotates the pinion down toward the tie rod a bit. Definitely a help with steering stability at moderate lifts.

I have been quite pleased with the Slee arms and 4 inches of lift, but not sure exactly how that would translate into your 60/80. Plus, it's a lot more $ so try the Plates first.

When you have a chance, can you measure the distance between the bumpstop & bottom coil bucket? I'm curious how that compares to these J's.
 
Sure, but I have some spacers in there. It will have to be tonight when I get off work.
 
Physical progress is in a holding pattern for a few days, but I did play with the driveshafts.

Check out the stock 80 vs. my cut down 62... identical lengths!

Not that it's relevant to what you're doing but one of the FJ62 driveshafts is a perfect replacement for the rear shaft in an 80. I can't recall if it's the front or rear from the FJ62 that matches up but I'm running one in our 80.
 
Not that it's relevant to what you're doing but one of the FJ62 driveshafts is a perfect replacement for the rear shaft in an 80. I can't recall if it's the front or rear from the FJ62 that matches up but I'm running one in our 80.

Good info! I have the rear from the 80 and it might be close to mine, which has been shortened to be close to a 62 rear shaft.

It might at least make a free trail spare if nothing else.
 
It isn't the plates that move the pinion back, it's the lift. It's basic geometry. More lift decreases the horizontal distance to the transfer case. That's why the ideal solution is to put your wife to work and get the Slee arms that more properly address this geometry.
 

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