Camber on Rear Axle?

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I do have some tips and pictures of the locker rebuild, but I'm not sure I should type them up in here or just create another thread and reference it. I know there are several of them already wasn't sure another one would help.
 
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Have you pulled the wheel and checked for play in the axle shaft and runout of the wheel mounting surface?

I did not get any play at the axle shaft
 
If you're looking at a bent shaft or housing you may want to find a complete rear axle assembly from a wrecker, if yours has unknown significant damage you may blow a lot of $$ before it's right. The shaft and bearings and housing could be bad and if you start changing 1 at a time you may get in deep.

If you pull the pan-hard you will be able to shift the truck left and right to almost wherever you want. Sounds like you're getting the 4-link with panhard understood though at this point. If the panhard was bent due to a hit on a rear wheel you're going to have some other issues I think.

What's the service history on this truck, is it new to you, any known collision history?
EDIT, 2001 with 65k you just picked up, ok more about the collision and "quality repairs" then?

Good luck with it!

I don't have documentation on the repair history, but it was locally serviced by a Lexus dealer, I can tell because of the stickers inside the engine bay, on the breather box looks like the timing belt was done at 60K as well as oil changes. The quality of the collision repair looks good, not pristine but definitively a good job. Looks like the rear driver side door skin was replaced and the rear quarter panel was repainted. In all only way you can tell is the painted over VIN sticker on the door, and I could tell the quarter panel glass was removed. I was willing to overlook all that considering how hard of a time I had just finding one under 90k miles.
 
Locker before:

https://app.box.com/s/ppeqqlmdo47xsz5zsljivsdc2tykbo3f

After:

https://app.box.com/s/vh9dbd1exsbkrgvs0ypo4f2jlo79un36

https://app.box.com/s/gz048zn9p293hqjwlkbukewmwfe3kooo

https://app.box.com/s/f2fjyz2dse3rcqsevwx1ltb49hh7cv37


So here is a trick when inserting the electric motor back into the circuit board to hold the magnets in place while doing it. Insert a slim piece of cardboard to hold it in place, it actually wedges in there nicely to hold the magnet in. Before that I felt like I needed two more fingers on each hand to be able to do this. Also the trick about holding the worm gear while doing this is definitively a must. I messed up twice trying to do it, with out holding the worm gear and the magnet just pulled the springs and magnets out of place.

https://app.box.com/s/kn2z1kepibp7wzg33vr6yak2cvdbu8gg
 
More updates,

I finally got around to installing the refurbished axle.

I was extremely nervous about putting the Land Cruiser on stands, I usually don't doubt my self on these scenarios but there was a serious lack of consideration from Toyota to put jacking points on this truck, I could not believe the lack of a good jacking point to only lift one side or both rear tires up!. Since renting a lift was not an option for me I went to harbor freight and bought the most beffed up jack stands (12 ton) at just under $100 bucks. I finally got the stands supporting the truck and even then I wasn't sure about it, eventually I got some confidence and got started.

Pic:
https://app.box.com/s/yasexyfsg6ghohi87cvx73ihkoxnys1v

Removing the axle was pretty straight forward, however the 98' locked axle swap did require minor fab, not sure that is covered anywhere but some of the bolt mounting holes on the axle are non existent on the 98 locked axle vs the 01 non-locked axle for the brake lines. No biggie fixed with a dremel, drill and threader.

The axle now sits dead center and gap between tires and frame is at an even 3.25 with a straight panhard

The very next day I noticed the refurbished axle is leaking gear oil after the installation, talk about fixing a problem just to run into another. The oil seems to be seeping from third member to axle housing seal just below where the locker actuator bolts into, very frustrating I was not expecting this. I'll see if I can post some pictures.
 
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These trucks are long enough that the frame area in the middle has plenty of real estate to station Jacks that will support the rig. 12T jack stands are nice to have around, for sure.
As far as the leak, did you check the snugness of the nuts?
 
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These trucks are long enough that the frame area in the middle has plenty of real estate to station Jacks that will support the rig. 12T jack stands are nice to have around, for sure.
As far as the leak, did you check the snugness of the nuts?

Thanks Stumpalama I'll check that this weekend, does anyone know the correct torque?
 
:meh: I thought there were a lot of jacking points. Which vehicles have more? Maybe you just need more than one jack?

I do think I'll need one more jack for this truck. I guess I was expecting to see more than just the ladder rail, now that I think about it everything else I've owned before or most of it has been uni body. I need to add my ownership history on my signature.
 
Thanks Stumpalama I'll check that this weekend, does anyone know the correct torque?
Don't recall torque, but "good and snug" is my go to measurement. You certainly want to tighten them enough to fully compress the lock washer.
 
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