I’ve been working on a 1982 FJ45 troopy for the past couple years. Went through the motor, had the head cleaned, new OEM head gasket, and just rebuilt the carb. New OEM non USA points distributor. Points gap set to the .228 or whatever the manual says. I have finally been able to get the truck to idle but it is spitting out a lot of smoke. After messing with this thing for so long I just want to get it to run right. Anyone know of any really good mechanics with a lot of carb experience in town?
Calling all local carb gurus (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter girraffe
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I don’t know of any, but good luck getting it to run right!
Subterranean Nik
SILVER Star
Hello, what color is the smoke? Is timing set correctly? Are you sure it’s a carb thing - ie everything else is good?
Sounds like a great project, I know the feeling of almost having a project done...
Nik
Sounds like a great project, I know the feeling of almost having a project done...
Nik
- Thread starter
- #4
Smoke is white on idle but if you his the gas it’s black. Strong fuel smell. I’m pretty positive it’s getting too much fuel in the mixture. I set the timing with a light when first fired up to the BB but when adjusting the idle speed screw rechecked and noticed it seems to change where the timing light hits??
Mechanical (and vacuum) advance will change with engine speed. I'll be working on cruisers by next year some. I want to keep it fun and not get backed up like Marshall.
I know I can get it running right, just not enough time in the day to get my stuff done right now.
Otherwise, call Marshall and get one of his carbs. Scott and I both have them on our 40's (raffle prizes) and they do great.
I know I can get it running right, just not enough time in the day to get my stuff done right now.
Otherwise, call Marshall and get one of his carbs. Scott and I both have them on our 40's (raffle prizes) and they do great.
@Weber Sarge gave me lots of advice with my Weber.... Search was helpful. a @Trollhole carb is your absolute best bet. I have an engine analyzer (Sears brand), timing light and some knowledge, if you get depserate. Maybe Thursday or this weekend.
@CharlestonG8R knows a few things, but not sure about the carb, plus he's working out of town.
First thing I would do is replace the points (or at least remove them and inspect them again) and condenser. They're cheap and it will ensure that is not your errorI had burned mine up quickly by not having the timing anywhere close - back when I ran the points dizzy.. Then re-set you timing. As far as adjusting the idle mixture - search mud again (I'm sure you've already done this) -
Maybe this thread ?
fj60 Carb adjust screws, what do they do?
@CharlestonG8R knows a few things, but not sure about the carb, plus he's working out of town.
First thing I would do is replace the points (or at least remove them and inspect them again) and condenser. They're cheap and it will ensure that is not your errorI had burned mine up quickly by not having the timing anywhere close - back when I ran the points dizzy.. Then re-set you timing. As far as adjusting the idle mixture - search mud again (I'm sure you've already done this) -
Maybe this thread ?
fj60 Carb adjust screws, what do they do?
Your other options : There is an import automotive shop up at Oakbrook : +18438710906 - I tried them years ago; they were Greman auto - but should understand carbs.....
If "Dan" still works at XPerTech Automotive (right out in front of your neighborhood), you can mention to him that (my wife) Trina used to be his "service writer" for them when the shop initially opened (long story, They were long time family friends of Trina's parents... he and his wife have divorced, but Trina ran the front office for @ 1 year when they first opened). +18438211511
There is a fella over off of Hwy 78 that does work on old cars - engines, paint and body, etc.... he has a long wait list, but little overhead, and his prices are very reasonable. I dont know if he'd be willing to do a "road call" if you cant get the truck to him. John Bewersdorf 843-509-0320. He's built hot rods and boats, and everything in between.
If "Dan" still works at XPerTech Automotive (right out in front of your neighborhood), you can mention to him that (my wife) Trina used to be his "service writer" for them when the shop initially opened (long story, They were long time family friends of Trina's parents... he and his wife have divorced, but Trina ran the front office for @ 1 year when they first opened). +18438211511
There is a fella over off of Hwy 78 that does work on old cars - engines, paint and body, etc.... he has a long wait list, but little overhead, and his prices are very reasonable. I dont know if he'd be willing to do a "road call" if you cant get the truck to him. John Bewersdorf 843-509-0320. He's built hot rods and boats, and everything in between.
- Thread starter
- #8
No worries Dave! Let me know when you get around and we’ll see where this thing is at.
- Thread starter
- #9
Erik. Appreciate the offer! Let me know what works for you. I’ve got plans for later on Saturday but should be good for morning tome. I can get you some nice beer for payment or something too!!
- Thread starter
- #10
Erik. I’m also available Thursday if you prefer. Feel free to call or text me
- Thread starter
- #11
So I have now bought a Fluke RPM probe, vacuum gauge and the fancy Toyota carb adjustment tool. Vacuum is pulling about 16. I checked and adjusted the valve angles and gap on the carb per the FSM. One thing I am not sure if is if my RPM probe is reading correctly. Anyone with a 2F mind if I swing by and check their idle RPM with my meter? Once I have a baseline to go off of I think I should be able to do the rest on my own.
How much money you got, Bo?
(texting you)
@girraffe I had a situation similar to yours when I bolted on a rebuilt carb. I used a paper gasket between the carb and the insulator underneath. The paper gasket interfered with the carb secondary butterfly and held it open the least little bit. The result was high idle, gassy smell and black exhaust. Once I cycled the secondary lever by hand, I felt the resistance against the gasket. I ended up removing the gasket altogether. No leaks without the gasket and no more issues. I know this is an old thread. Hopefully you have it figured out. If not, good luck!
- Thread starter
- #14
Still don’t have this thing running. Even bought a NOS carb... Grrrrr.....
I've never messed with the 2F but I've been playing with a 2 barrel carb on a Ford 351m ('78). My EGR plate was completely packed full of carbon. To the point where no air would flow. Cleaning that out (with a chisel lol) seemed to help smooth out my idle. It's also got a 2 stage choke that adjusts as the engine warms up. Played with that a bit and had some improvements but it's not yet perfect. Is there anything on this type of carb that could limit air flow and cause the rich condition?
