Calling all lighting wizards! (2 Viewers)

[mookamatook]

I need to do the following and am hoping someone has done similar on a 100 series and can help me out. I’m not very electrically inclined so I may ask some stupid questions... the truck is a 2001 fzj100. I want to wire my aux driving lights to my high beams and have a single pole double throw switch allow the lights to come on independent of the high beams via one of the two on positions, with the high beams in the other on position, or off in the middle on position. I have read that the high beams are wire to ground instead of hot which doesn’t mean much to me other than the high beam wire in the steering column that I need to t splice into is going to read ground when I test with the hi beams on. I will seriously Venmo someone who helps me out in a clear and stupid proof way... I’m no wizard and this is supposedly a fairy easy job.

Please help fill in the steps...
1. Disconnect negative terminal from battery
2. Mount the lights and hook up to the harness via weatherpac and weatherproof splice connectors.
3. Mount the relay to a good ground in the engine bay and connect the other loose wire to the battery terminal
4. Run the switching wires through the firewall and then....
What do I do?? Remove the cover plates from the steering column to see the wiring loom for the headlights? Which one is it? Where does the t splice hook back to? How should the single pole double throw switch be hooked up?

Thanks in advance for your wizardry!!

What I have:

Auxbeam 80w led combo flood/spot lights that I’m going to install on my ARB front bar.

Auxbeam 2Pcs 7" LED Driving Light 80w Round LED Off-Road Light Bar 8000lm Combo Beams for Jeep ATV UTV Golf cart Lighting Trucks Pickup Ford f150 Work Light Amazon product ASIN B01EHKPW6K
I have a hella wiring harness for dual lighting applications. I’ll replace the single pole single throw switch and need to rewire the relay to make this work I think.

HELLA 357211011 ValueFit Two Light Wiring Harness Amazon product ASIN B016VAHX8E
I have a single pole double throw switch

DC Switch ON-OFF-ON single pole double throw Amazon.com: DC Switch ON-OFF-ON single pole double throw: Automotive

And a few of these connectors for connecting the raw ends of the lights to the weatherpack connectors on the hella harness.

IP68 Waterproof External Electrical Junction Box, ELifeApply Wire Connector for Underground Outdoor, Cable Range 4.5-9.5 mm, Shielded, Field Installable (4 Pack 2 Way 2 Pin) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQDYBJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PS2NDb86DQNKD

 

[87warrior]

Without the EWD for your rig, this is quick sketch of what I would do with the gear you have. Adding a 5A fuse on the high beam source (if tapped at head light or in engine bay) would be a good idea that is not shown. I am not sure where a (+) high beam source can be found behind the dash without digging into an EWD.

I'd skip the underground cable splices and simply solder/heat shrink the weather pack connector pigtails to the lights.

 

[mookamatook]

Without the EWD for your rig, this is quick sketch of what I would do with the gear you have. Adding a 5A fuse on the high beam source (if tapped at head light or in engine bay) would be a good idea that is not shown. I am not sure where a (+) high beam source can be found behind the dash without digging into an EWD.

View attachment 2104066

I'd skip the underground cable splices and simply solder/heat shrink the weather pack connectors to the lights.

Thank you!
So Here come some ignorant questions...
1. red and black on the lights equal red=positive, black= ground. When these go to the relay through the weatherpacs they are combined and both grounded correct?

2. The relay should have a fuse inside and connect directly to the battery terminal correct? I don’t need an additional fuse in line with the connection of the relay to the positive battery terminal right?

3. The switch in the harness kit has spade connectors that should mount up right to the single pole double throw switch. There is a yellow red and black wire. Do I simply take those and route them to the new switch and then add or splice in the connection to the high beam positive? I’m still confused with this piece of the job.

4. What is the high beam positive in a grounded high beam system like Toyota uses? How do I find it? Any color indications for it?

Thanks!

 

[87warrior]

1. red and black on the lights equal red=positive, black= ground. When these go to the relay through the weatherpacs they are combined and both grounded correct?
Yes on the colors. For the ground termination, you get to pick how it is done. You can ground each light individually or tie them together and ground them at one point. The lights on my ARB are tied together and grounded at one point.

2. The relay should have a fuse inside and connect directly to the battery terminal correct? I don’t need an additional fuse in line with the connection of the relay to the positive battery terminal right?
Always ground any wire you attach to the battery as close to the battery as possible. The relay will have a heavy gauge wire right that connects directly to the battery. This wire must be fused as close to the battery as possible. This wire is what will provide the power for your lights. Any 'trigger' power fed to the switch should be fused before the switch, so the wire running between the switch and relay does not need fused. I suggested adding a low amperage fuse to the high beam trigger if tapped under the hood in case that trigger wire grounds out, it will only pop that low amperage fuse and not your headlight fuse.

3. The switch in the harness kit has spade connectors that should mount up right to the single pole double throw switch. There is a yellow red and black wire. Do I simply take those and route them to the new switch and then add or splice in the connection to the high beam positive? I’m still confused with this piece of the job.
You'll need to look at the wiring diagram that came with your harness to know what those wires do. I speculate B=Ground (is the switch lighted?), R/Y=Fused Power/Relay trigger.

4. What is the high beam positive in a grounded high beam system like Toyota uses? How do I find it? Any color indications for it?
I do not know off the top of my head. Check out the EWD in the 04 FSM that is floating around. You could also probe the headlight sockets with a multi-meter and trace it back.

 

[mookamatook]

Thank you so much for your help with this. The main things I’m still wondering about focus on the tap to the high beams and how I should alter the relay and the switches to work with the double throw.

The switch with the hella kit is illuminated so that solves the 3 wires running to it. The new switch is not lit so should I just discard the black wire? Do I need to terminate it somehow?

The relay switch should go to the middle and the power to the bottom of the new switch correct? Then the top goes to the tap of the high beams wherever I can find it either under the hood and fuse it or find the tap in the wiring loom in the steering column and just tsplice that wire with another?

The two ring connections that are coming from the harness. The red goes to positive and has a fuse in line already. Good! The black wire I assume is the combined ground from the two lights and should be grounded by the battery somewhere as the cable is about the same length as the fused red one. Right?

I think that this should be fairly easy to install aside from:

1. how the double throw uses the other spade connectors from the hella single throw illuminated switch.
2. How I tap the wire for the high beams and tie it back to the switch. Where do I do it, which wire is it, if I do it in the steering column, do I need a fuse or resistor/diode? If I do it under the hood do I need one?

All the help is much appreciated my friend. I’ll be paying you back somehow.

 

[saucebox]

To tap into your high beam without cutting into the wiring harness (this is optional, of course), consider something like the TRS splitter (High Beam Splitters). You need the one that looks like this, I think (for an LX at least, possibly different if you have an LC)

And then something like this (well, the opposite of this)
Amazon product ASIN B01GRIG5WK to go to your accessory.

It makes everything easily reversible, and it's a whole helluva lot better than tracking down corroded splices in the future. Another advantage of keeping everything under the hood (sans switch wires, of course) is that your high current wiring is outside the cabin and the runs are shorter.

 

[mookamatook]

Oh yea! That looks like a great option to keep things clean and organized. The goal is to not hack this one together... I have had a car that was wired up by someone who clearly cut corners on the components and connections. Those look like good options.

So you take the end of the high beam connector, split it, run one back to the high beams and then run one back to the double throw switch with a 5a fuse in the high beam (source) line?

 

[mookamatook]

Also the trs splitter goes 9005m (which is the right connection for the high beams I verified) to 9005f/9006f. Is that for splitting to some other source? Wouldn’t I just want 9005f/9005f on the split side? Does it matter? They look very similar...

 

[saucebox]

So you take the end of the high beam connector, split it, run one back to the high beams and then run one back to the double throw switch with a 5a fuse in the high beam (source) line?

That sounds right. The high current stuff is all drawn directly from the battery and through the relay, so you just need to get a single line/trigger to your switch from the split to trigger the relay.

Also the trs splitter goes 9005m (which is the right connection for the high beams I verified) to 9005f/9006f. Is that for splitting to some other source? Wouldn’t I just want 9005f/9005f on the split side? Does it matter? They look very similar...

It might be. They sell a ton of different configurations, good eye looking out for the right one. At minimum, it'll have to plug into the factory harness and one side must plug into your high beams.

I also have two lights on an ARB bar—this was the solution. It's plug-and-play...might see if the diagram for that gets you those last couple of steps.

Single Connector Plug & Play SMART Harness™ High Beam Driving Light Wiring

If you have ever wonder how to wire you LED Driving lights to your High Beam, STED's new Quick Fit Driving Light wiring harness makes installation as easy as 1, 2 3.

www.stedi.com.au

 

[mookamatook]

That sounds right. The high current stuff is all drawn directly from the battery and through the relay, so you just need to get a single line/trigger to your switch from the split to trigger the relay.



It might be. They sell a ton of different configurations, good eye looking out for the right one. At minimum, it'll have to plug into the factory harness and one side must plug into your high beams.

I also have two lights on an ARB bar—this was the solution. It's plug-and-play...might see if the diagram for that gets you those last couple of steps.

Single Connector Plug & Play SMART Harness™ High Beam Driving Light Wiring

If you have ever wonder how to wire you LED Driving lights to your High Beam, STED's new Quick Fit Driving Light wiring harness makes installation as easy as 1, 2 3.

www.stedi.com.au

Thanks for the tip @saucebox, good to see you here again, helping me out... I'll need to pay you back too somehow!

I would have loved to see that stedi harness before I bought the Hella one... that looks all in one and exactly what I wanted to do. I may need to keep on the track I've been making though... darnit. In looking at how that one works, I think I just need to find the correct way to run the signal from one of the 9005f splits back to the switch with a 5a fuse somewhere. One of the two cables in the 9005 is the hot (+) and one is the ground correct? Do I run only one of the two wires back to the switch or both?

This is for another series landcruiser but it seems like its the same grounded switch deal for the highbeam signal on the 100 series.
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/images/lights.PDF
Picked up a pair of these
Amazon product ASIN B01HNAT6SQAnd one of these
High Beam Splitters

 

[saucebox]

Nice, yeah those look right. Grounded lights are pretty common on the LCs. It's been the same since at least the 60 series.

With the Stedi harness—totally understand. I didn't look far enough into it to see if they had a wiring diagram, just looking at that would be helpful (rather than just buying their harness).

And one wire should do the trick. @87warrior's diagram looks spot on. (Really, the only thing I've done is get you to buy more stuff...)

 

[87warrior]

View attachment 2104165

1. how the double throw uses the other spade connectors from the hella single throw illuminated switch.

Your switch looks basic, which is good. The spade terminals on the far left and the far right should be the fused (+) feeds from the headlight and the independent source. The center spade will be the trigger wire running to the relay. This is slightly different from the diagram above since the basic switch consolidates the trigger internally, no need for a splice outside the switch.

 

[mookamatook]

Your switch looks basic, which is good. The spade terminals on the far left and the far right should be the fused (+) feeds from the headlight and the independent source. The center spade will be the trigger wire running to the relay. This is slightly different from the diagram above since the basic switch consolidates the trigger internally, no need for a splice outside the switch.

Thanks! Hate to make you respond again... I'm just not sure i'm getting all of the details that I'm still wondering about... There are 3 wires going into the switch that came with the Hella kit. Should I attach the positive (+) red and yellow (switching to relay) to the bottom and middle terminals on the new switch and just leave the black wire spade connector that was plugged into the illuminated switch unconnected?

Do I need to put the 5A fuse in the hi beam source path that comes from the headlight splitter? Which line does that go on. red (+) or black (grnd) and can it go right at the headlamp splitter or should it go by the switch end of the wire?

I can still return all of this stuff aside from the switch on Amazon and just buy the stedi harness... it would be a wash price wise...yay? Nay?

 

[87warrior]

@mookamatook you are almost there Within the Hella instructions there should be at least one wire diagram for the harness. Can you share a picture of that? It would help clarify how Hella built the harness and allow us to answer those questions without speculation.

 

[saucebox]

I can still return all of this stuff aside from the switch on Amazon and just buy the stedi harness... it would be a wash price wise...yay? Nay?

The Stedi harness would get you like 98% there, but you'd be stuck with the uglier switch. 87's got the right idea—post that up and let's get over that last hurdle.

 

[mookamatook]

You two are friggen saints. Thank you!

This is the only doc that came with it...

 

[87warrior]

That Hella diagram is terrible! I am surprised that is all the detail they would provide the customer.

It looks like they use a 4-pin relay and run everything back to the relay. Below is how I think the Hella kit is wired based on their cartoon diagram. Integrating the high beam light trigger and new switch should be pretty basic.

A couple of notes:

• The Hella kit is using independent switch power by piggy backing off the main fused power supply. Your lights will work anytime the switch is flipped to the independent power source.
• I think it is silly to run ground back to the battery and would choose a chassis ground instead.
• You can remove or terminate the ground wire intended for the illuminated Hella switch. However, if you upgrade to a lighted double throw switch in the future, that ground wire would make lighting it very easy.
• Since you are going to use the headlight splitter and a male harness adapter for the high beam power source, I would simply remove the black (-) pigtail from the male harness adapter to avoid any confusion.
• Don't use Black or Red wire for the high beam source wire to avoid confusion at the switch. I chose pink at random in the diagram.

Dang, now I want to wire my aux lights to a single pole double throw switch

 

[saucebox]

That Hella diagram is terrible! I am surprised that is all the detail they would provide the customer.

It looks like they use a 4-pin relay and run everything back to the relay. Below is how I think the Hella kit is wired based on their cartoon diagram. Integrating the high beam light trigger and new switch should be pretty basic.
View attachment 2104898
A couple of notes:

• The Hella kit is using independent switch power by piggy backing off the main fused power supply. Your lights will work anytime the switch is flipped to the independent power source.
• I think it is silly to run ground back to the battery and would choose a chassis ground instead.
• You can remove or terminate the ground wire intended for the illuminated Hella switch. However, if you upgrade to a lighted double throw switch in the future, that ground wire would make lighting it very easy.
• Since you are going to use the headlight splitter and a male harness adapter for the high beam power source, I would simply remove the black (-) pigtail from the male harness adapter to avoid any confusion.
• Don't use Black or Red wire for the high beam source wire to avoid confusion at the switch. I chose pink at random in the diagram.

Dang, now I want to wire my aux lights to a single pole double throw switch

Nice!

Edit: And great suggestions on color, and removing the unused wire.

 

[mookamatook]

My god. Thank you! No idea how helpful this is. And your actually helping me learn why things are set up in the way you propose. Thank you thank you! I thought it would be good to have some fuses and inline fuse holders around the garage so I got a few off amazon. That was he last piece I needed I think...


Nilight 120 Pcs Standard Blade Fuse 5A/7.5A/10A/15A/20A/25A/30A AMP Assorted Set with 10 Pack 14AWG ATC/ATO Inline Fuse Holder, 2 Years Warranty Amazon product ASIN B07Q9PL4R6

Hopefully having all of the products on this thread will help someone else do it. I’ll take some photos of the install today and tomorrow to pay your guys’ help forward! Hopefully someone else can benefit from my ignorance

What happens to the ground wire coming off the 9005 split on the switch side?? The + goes to the 5a fuse and back to the switch, got that. But do I just pull the ground off the male adapter? Also can I just leave the spade connector from the switch light hanging if I don’t ground it somewhere in the cab? Or do I need to terminate it somehow, somewhere? Or I could just get an illuminated switch and return the other one. Does this look right?


12V DC 20A 4-Pin LED ON-Off-ON SPDT Rocker Switch - Amber Amazon product ASIN B01M752E5X

Lastly for the high beam source wire, what gauge is best practices for that application?

 

[87warrior]

What happens to the ground wire coming off the 9005 split on the switch side?? The + goes to the 5a fuse and back to the switch, got that. But do I just pull the ground off the male adapter?

Simply remove the pigtail from the adapter. You are only using the (+) from the headlight. The splitter is just being used as an ultra clean way to tap into the high beam source. We don't care about the high beam ground here.

Also can I just leave the spade connector from the switch light hanging if I don’t ground it somewhere in the cab? Or do I need to terminate it somehow, somewhere?

I would either remove the wire from the harness or tape up the connector with electrical tape.

Or I could just get an illuminated switch and return the other one. Does this look right?

That will work if you like the style. I am partial to simple Carling style switches, but that is just a personal preference.

Lastly for the high beam source wire, what gauge is best practices for that application?

I use this chart to help determine wire sizes. You would probably be fine with 18AWG, but 16AWG is recommend. If you have heavier wire, it will work too.

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg