C-clip will not slip on after bearing job

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duggy

duggy

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Last night I did inner and outer wheel bearings along with replacing rotors/pads on my 1998 LC. The driver side went on without a hitch but the passenger side axle will not pull out enough for me to slip the c-clip back on. This is the only thing that stopping me from finishing the job. The c-clip is in ok condition. Any ideas how I can pull the axle out further other than sticking a bolt in there to pull it out? It's hard to get any leverage on it with just a tiny bolt.

What could be stopping it from pulling out further? I only have a few MM's to go before the clip can slide on.
 
1) The snap-rings are designated as a parts replacement item, per Toyota, anytime they're removed. Prudently advised, especially given what they cost relative to the pain they can impart, to replace them with new; take care not to over-stretch them when installing...
2) The snap-rings come in, IIRC, 5-different thicknesses; good to have 2-3 each on hand.
3) If you replaced bearings and races its possible you didn't get the race(s) fully seated which would account for the missing "few MM's". If not then re-install the CV through the steering knuckle...until it is fully seated outboard; I grab the CV shaft between the boots and pull outward while rotating.... While you're there be sure to grease the needle bearing that resides on the inside of the steering knuckle as its easy to miss if you're not aware its there.

HTHs
 
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Are you able to grab the outer CV and push it into hub to get a full visual on the snap ring (C-clip) groove? It not, and you’re hitting a mechanical stop, your best best is to disassemble and reassemble as spresomon described. If you can, but the CV shaft gets sucked back in when you release, you have a vacuum affect on the CV boot(s).

I too thought about the wheel bearings and races, but if that was the issue, you’d be writing about a different problem: getting the spindle nut back on, not the CV shaft snap ring.
 
spressomon/Rover4 - are you saying that I can pull the CV out of the hub without taking off the rotor/brake parts? This would save a lot of time for me especially all bearings are packed and nicely full of new grease.

Can I pop the steering TRE and lower ball joint off and swing the hub out of the way to remove and inspect the outboard section of the CV?
 
Reach behind the hub and pull the axle towards you if you're facing the rotor.

Like rover said, there may be a little vacuum/air trapped. Try pushing the axle back into the hub and pulling it back out again.

Also, make sure that you didn't forget to remove the old gasket. Sometimes they'll get stuck to the back of the flange. When you put a new one on the hub, you might forget the old one is still on the flange and you've got 2 gaskets on. I didn't do that once. :doh:
 
I'm doing some extended thinking here and by the way that I understand how the bearings sit, the only one that would affect placement of the rotor/hub is the larger inner bearing. I will remove the rotor/hub and pound it in some more after I try to reseat the axle by the methods you are suggesting.
 
duggy said:
spressomon/Rover4 - are you saying that I can pull the CV out of the hub without taking off the rotor/brake parts? This would save a lot of time for me especially all bearings are packed and nicely full of new grease.

Can I pop the steering TRE and lower ball joint off and swing the hub out of the way to remove and inspect the outboard section of the CV?
Click to expand...


I've swapped out the CV several different ways but have found it generally to be quicker and easier overall when its just me (typical; sans another set of hands) to remove the caliper (leave the brake line attached though) and support it accordingly. And I remove the tie rod bracket from the steering knuckle for the same reason.

Its tight but I can get the CV out with just disconnecting the UCA from the knuckle and leave the more difficult to remove lower ball joint in place. Of course for a bearing job both UCA and LCA get separated from the steering knuckle (ditto for the ABS sensor).
 
BTW, if you pull the axle out with a bolt, it doesn't have to be a tiny one. You can put a really large washer on it, slip on a 3 foot crowbar, and pull. (After making sure the truck is well supported.) It took 2 people pulling, but I got mine out ok. And, I had to replace the snap rings, since taking them off buggered them up enough to not fit smoothly in the grove. For some reason taking them off is much harder on them than installing them.
 
I make a puller out of a socket that's slightly larger than the cv, some washers, and a bolt. As you tighten the bolt, it pulls the cv out.
 
rusty87 said:
I make a puller out of a socket that's slightly larger than the cv, some washers, and a bolt. As you tighten the bolt, it pulls the cv out.
Click to expand...

Will keep this in mind! Thanks for the suggestions all. My c-clip was mangled up a bit so I straightened it out and grabbed the CV from behind and there was in fact a "suction vacuum" effect. I finally got the clip on and will be buying a new c-clip to replace the mangled one.

Thanks for all of your help!
 
Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and gently raise to "straighten" the angle of the axle. This will allow the axle to extend enough to pop the clip into the groove.

CAUTION: Be careful not to lift too high because the frame will unload from the jackstands causing an unsafe condition.
 
SupraTuRD said:
Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and gently raise to "straighten" the angle of the axle. This will allow the axle to extend enough to pop the clip into the groove. CAUTION: Be careful not to lift too high because the frame will unload from the jackstands causing an unsafe condition.
Click to expand...

This. I have to do this regardless to work on the front end. Makes everything less extreme.
 
Trunk Monkey said:
I'm a broken record on this, but these:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-lock-ring-pliers/p-00947386000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

Are one of the best tools you'll ever buy. Makes dealing with the c-clips a piece of cake and I've always reused mine, it doesn't bugger them up at all removing them.
Click to expand...

paflytyer said:
I use the same exact ones. I keep a pair in my truck kit and one in my home tool box.
Click to expand...

I have a set of snap ring pliers and the c-clip still got mangled up. Probably from when I reused it when I replaced the CV axle. I'll be replacing the clip now.
 
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