C-clip will not come out of ezlocker 1974 FJ40 Rear

[JohnJL]

Hi all,
I have been struggling with this for a month, I simply cannot move on with the restoration until I sort out getting the axles out of the rear. I have the axle all stripped down handing on straps from a roof hoist so I can spin it in any direction.

I feel like I have tried every angle of attack and trick I have to get the c-clip off the axle but I cannot get it to drop out through the "window" in the ezlocker. Are there any tricks? I even tried sticking a strong magnet through the window and try to pull the clip out but no luck. The c-clip spins smoothly on the axle and I can rotate it with a pick but it is just too tight against the differential to simply drop out when properly oriented and with gravity helping.

Links and pics in a second...

Rotate the assembly until the flat spot on the passenger side “driver” is visible.

Move the driver away from the coupler towards the center. Reach into the gap and slide the end cap towards the center as well. Then the c clip and the groove for it are accessible for install or disassembly.

No one here remembers the prototype for the first locker was designed and installed in my shop in 1991.

 

[JohnJL]

Pics and info...

So I am a moron, but I am a persistent moron. I am still stuck. Here is a pic of the differential with the parts labelled. When you refer to coupler and and cap, I am not clear which parts you are referring to. The exlocker instructions (FJ40 - EZ-Locker / Lock-Right install instruction) have a different model to mine and use different terms for those components. The letters are the components and the numbers are the gaps.

Would you indulge me and help specify;

Which axle needs to come out first?

Does the axle I am removing need to be pushed inboard or pulled outboard? Does it matter how the other side is positioned?

Between which components does the c-clip come out? I cant seem to locate a c-clip between any parts but the axle will not come out. I have labelled the gaps below.

Also my locker has only 1 screw pin, but 7 (I think I am missing 1?) small springs and 2 doubled springs as in the second pic.

Thanks so much!

Bonus pics of the frame back from the blaster coming later tonight. Not a stitch of rust beyond a couple spots of surface pitting. Everything gets the wire wheel and POR Chassis Coat tomorrow...

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Thanks for the tip on the carrier bearing bolts. Back on now.

I did this:
"rotate B by rotating the axleshaft until the teeth are meshed with C. This will give you more wiggle room."

But I cant see or feel any "end cap" :

"There should be an end cap inside C. With the center pin removed, you should be able to slide the end cap across the middle and part way into D."

I did this:
"slide the axleshaft in and out until the c-clip lines up with the slot in C you have marked with a 2 and rotate the slot down so that when you rotate the axleshaft, the c clip will want to fall out through the slot"

Except my clip will not fall out. I have the axle on a hoist and straps so I can rotate it easily and smoothly. Tried lining up the C window to the c-clip with the c-clip gap rotated on the opposite "up" side.

Then I went creative and pulled out a supermagnet and stuffed it down the "C" window until it touches the c-clip at the middle of its throat, and grab th magnet with some forceps/hummingbirdnose pliers. That c-clip will NOT come out. It slides smoothly around the shaft but will NOT come out through that C window. Am I missing something? Whats that end cap reference? Do I need to shift another component?

Thanks!

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[shawnfj40]

You still have the shaft in the locker. You need to take that out completely. Then things will move around for you.

 

[shawnfj40]

Pull the springs out too and slide the pins out of the opposing sides

 

[Living in the Past]

Not sure hanging from straps is your friend. I would perfer having it solid on blocks. Would put it so the inspection cover is down. Drive the axles in then smack the side of the diff that is up to see it gravity and that shock would cause it to slip out. Might also spray WD-40 in the area to rinse out the oil helping to hold the C clip in place.

 

[shawnfj40]

Never mind I see what you are saying. That’s an odd setup.

 

[JohnJL]

You still have the shaft in the locker. You need to take that out completely. Then things will move around for you.

Can you please be specific about what shaft you are referring to? The pin and all of the springs are removed.

Thanks!

 

[JohnJL]

Pull the springs out too and slide the pins out of the opposing sides

The springs are all out as i the set screw and pin.

 

[shelfboy1]

as stated did you smack the axles in toward the diff that should do it .same locker as mine.if you get desperate i have the manual for those probably on thier web sites if there still around

 

[Living in the Past]

Because I only have auto lockers for coarse spline axles mine are Lock-Right. On those there is a slot at one and four on that picture. C clip install and remove at that slot. Can see the pinion shaft is out which allows the inner axles to slide in far enough for the C clips to come out. The pinion shaft is what h keeps the C clips in. On open semi floating rear axle a block over the pinion shaft is used to hold inner axles in place. In that picture not sure I see a gap big enough for C clip to be removed. Personally would not remove the bearing caps until the axle are out. Those hold the bearings in place which makes sure inner axles are not angled and bending the C clips.

 

[JohnJL]

Because I only have auto lockers for coarse spline axles mine are Lock-Right. On those there is a slot at one and four on that picture. C clip install and remove at that slot. Can see the pinion shaft is out which allows the inner axles to slide in far enough for the C clips to come out. The pinion shaft is what h keeps the C clips in. On open semi floating rear axle a block over the pinion shaft is used to hold inner axles in place. In that picture not sure I see a gap big enough for C clip to be removed. Personally would not remove the bearing caps until the axle are out. Those hold the bearings in place which makes sure inner axles are not angled and bending the C clips.

Thanks, maybe onto something here....this is a 74 so I think this is a Lock-Right now that you say that. I installed it ~19 years ago but I dont have the box or receipt anymore.

Yes, I reinstalled the bearing retainers.

You say the clips come out of 1 and 4, the two interfaces where the gears mesh? Not through the window labelled 2?

Thanks everyone! I have been making up new obscenities in teh garage for a month now...

 

[Living in the Past]

On my Lock-Right the C clip come out between the outer and inner pieces. Your very well may be different. Is there a matching slot on the opposite inner piece if you rotate it 180 degrees? How are you rotating the C clip so the opening is at the opposite side so it can slide out?

 

[JohnJL]

On my Lock-Right the C clip come out between the outer and inner pieces. Your very well may be different. Is there a matching slot on the opposite inner piece if you rotate it 180 degrees? How are you rotating the C clip so the opening is at the opposite side so it can slide out?

When you saw between the inner and outer sides, can you pls refer to the pic? Do you mean they came out at 1 and 4?

I have been focussed on the short drivers side, can the passenger side come out first?

There is only a slot on one side. It would be nice if there was one on the other side so I could push it off through.

I can rotate teh axle and the diff independently while it is hanging in the sling.

 

[Steamer]

Did my first lock-right 2 months ago. I had it in and out numerous times playing with shims sizes and just practicing. The passenger side c-clip was the last to go in and the first to come out (as per lock right instructions) When I removed the passenger side c-clip (first) I kept the drivers side axle pulled out to hold the c-clip in place and the left plate max left. The passenger side axle needed to be In but not all the way in as it would bind up the c-clip. I had to tap the passenger side axle in and out to find the sweet spot. Then a little screw driver to spread the plates for max gap. I fashioned a tool out of some stiff safety wire to rotate and nudge out the clip. Your locker looks very similar but not exactly the same as my lock right. Hth.

 

[pjohnson]

Maybe reverse this procedure?

FJ40 - EZ-Locker / Lock-Right install instruction

 

[JohnJL]

Did my first lock-right 2 months ago. I had it in and out numerous times playing with shims sizes and just practicing. The passenger side c-clip was the last to go in and the first to come out (as per lock right instructions) When I removed the passenger side c-clip (first) I kept the drivers side axle pulled out to hold the c-clip in place and the left plate max left. The passenger side axle needed to be In but not all the way in as it would bind up the c-clip. I had to tap the passenger side axle in and out to find the sweet spot. Then a little screw driver to spread the plates for max gap. I fashioned a tool out of some stiff safety wire to rotate and nudge out the clip. Your locker looks very similar but not exactly the same as my lock right. Hth.

Thats helpful, I will try that.

 

[JohnJL]

Maybe reverse this procedure?

FJ40 - EZ-Locker / Lock-Right install instruction

Yes I saw and tried to reference that but I must be too thick, impatient, clumsy or all of those to get it out.

Thanks

 

[JohnJL]

To close this part of the chapter out...I was able to get the c-clip out, though my troubles continue.

I made a tool from a "supermagnet" , an old pick and some jbweld.

After sanding, the tool was narrow enough to reach down into the "window" and move the c-clip around on the axle. However that wasnt the end of it....after another hour of moving the axle in and out, right side up and upside down, tapping on it with a hammer, trying to pull the clip down with the magnet, it still would not come out. I took my screwdriver'spacers out of the diff and rotated the whole asembly around a few times. IT was a bear to get the gears to mesh again, but when they did and I spent another 30 minutes getting everything meshed together on the drivers side and back in the original place, I was able to pluck the c-clip up and out with the magnet tool. It seems having the pack rotated around a bit it found a "happier" mesh and moved enough towards the passenger side for the c-clip not to get hung up on the driver's side differential gear.

More after dinner...

 

[Steamer]

Glad ya got it!

 

[JohnJL]

So I got the c-clip out with these tools...