Buyin', Sellin', Tradin' (1 Viewer)

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Just got back from investigating my bro-n-laws prob. He said he heard a loud bang in the drivetrain, then his 40 wouldn't move. We took the rear diff cover plate off and it was full of broken gear shards. Looks like the pinion bearing maybe failed and tore up the ring gear. Anyways, I'm trying to help him find a rear chunk we can drop in, stock gears, good used one if anybody knows. Thanks.
 
sk8salomon said:
Just got back from investigating my bro-n-laws prob. He said he heard a loud bang in the drivetrain, then his 40 wouldn't move. We took the rear diff cover plate off and it was full of broken gear shards. Looks like the pinion bearing maybe failed and tore up the ring gear. Anyways, I'm trying to help him find a rear chunk we can drop in, stock gears, good used one if anybody knows. Thanks.
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Swap the front with the rear and rebuild as time permits?
 
What Rick said is his best get up and going route. He can pull the front shafts out and put an empty housing back in the front to fill the hole until he can get it rebuilt. I have a pair of diffs from the '70 I picked up, but I have no idea what kind of condition they are in. I could pull one for him, but I would need enough for it to either buy another one myself or rebuild the one that grenaded on him.
 
Thanks Rick and Matt. It's been a few years since I've torn into a diff but let me make sure I understand this correctly. The rear is c-clip'd therefore you need the opposite side to have the diff cover plate in order to insert the clips once the 3rd is in. This is different for the front of course because it's not c-clip'd, no way to do it if it was because no cover plate to access. For the front, once the axle & birf assy are slid into the housing, it's basically locked in once you bolt in the stem flange plate (sorry for my lack of term). This is the part that bolts into the birf knuckle, about 6" dia with about 5-6" hollow stem so the axle can stick out. Therefore it doesn't require anything else to hold the axles in place. So what you are saying is that I remove the front drive shaft, swap the front with rear, take the ring gear off the rear diff and stick the housing back in the front letting the broken pinion gear just sit in there? So even if the hubs are locked or the t-case is put into 4x4, there is no way anything will get damaged.
 
Yeah. The rear is c-clipped, and the front is not, but as long as the side gears are splined the same (they should be) then that won't matter. The front is held in by the clips on the ends of the axles and the rear shafts are held in from the inside by those c-clips.

As far as how it would all go (someone please correct anywhere I get off the rails) Very general process

Drain front and rear diffs, jack-stands, safety, etc...

remove rear cover
remove the c-clips
pull the rear shafts
remove driveshaft
pull rear diff
if he is going to swap the rear to front, The ring gear would need to come off at a minimum, but if he wanted to, he could just pull the whole carrier and leave the pinion installed.

tear down the front
pull hubs and clips
pull the spindles off
pull the knuckles off
pull axle shafts
remove driveshaft
pull front diff

put front in rear and assemble in reverse order

put the knuckles and hubs back on the front (leave the shafts out all together)
put the empty rear diff back in the front just to cover the hole
leave out the front d-shaft

If he pulls the carrier completely and doesn't reconnect the front d-shaft, there is nothing to move, so no oil should be needed, so not having the shafts in shouldn't be a big deal as there will be no oil to leak into the knuckles. Basically the front housing will become a mono-beam housing that just has the wheels on the end and steers.

that should get him rolling around, but he will have a 2wd rig. leaving out the front shaft shouldn't effect his ability to use low range if he wanted to, would just spin the front output.

I think that should have it covered in a nutshell and I hope all that made sense.

The diffs are effin HEAVY, so having an extra set of hands will make life much easier.
 
I think I would just remove the rear and rebuild it. You can get with TPI Bob for the parts. Be a whole lot easier.

Or

Call Andy or Roger I'm sure one of them have a couple 3rd laying around.
 
@Bama4door Like Sean said, that is just due to the damaged diff and the fact that his rear chewed up the gears and if he put the damaged diff back in as is then it would lock up the front.

If your swapping the front to the rear just for wear purposes, then disregard that part of the write up. You will want to just reassemble everything in reverse order, but know that you will need lots of Jack stands since you will have all 4 tires off and all 4 corners torn apart while you do the swap.

@FJCRAWLER I agree, best option is get a donor or rebuild it, but if time and/or funds mean it needs to be driveable in short order or won't be able to be repaired for a longer period, that'd just get it back on the road, Quick and dirty style.
 
I with Rocky, do it right. Step one, get a Toyota service manual, not the the Haynes. The Toyota manual will walk you through the steps and it has good pictures.
I don't have a diff put together, do have some used 4.11 gears and maybe bearings. If he is going to keep and continue to wheel truck I would recommend at least new bearings and crush sleeve. What year is his truck, l think the late model 40's came with 3.73 gears and I do not have any of them.
 
Still trying to get my Porsche moved. I'd be interested in trading on a 4x4 Toyota that I can DD. If you know anyone looking. 1986 Porsche 944 Turbo 1st gen 4runner with cash would be awesome, or 1st gen taco.
 
FJCRAWLER said:
What about the Grand Wagoneer ?


On a another note :

I am looking for a 2wd mini truck . I don't care if it runs or not , mainly need a good frame and cab . Would like to pick this up on the cheap .

Time for a new project.
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You still in the market for this? I have a scheme brewing. Probably will be picking up an '84 2wd mini truck in the next few weeks. It's a regular cab, long bed (I think), 3/4 ton truck - if that's possible for a mini. All I want is the motor and accessories. Most importantly, it can be yours for cheap. Will send pics if interested.
 
Hey guys, looking for leaf springs from 70's Toyotas. Doesn't matter what shape they're in or what model. I have some various parts that I'm willing to trade. I'm in Clarksville. 93one-444-9one71
 
Cruisin Scout said:
Hey guys, looking for leaf springs from 70's Toyotas. Doesn't matter what shape they're in or what model. I have some various parts that I'm willing to trade. I'm in Clarksville. 93one-444-9one71
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Could you clarify;
From FJ40s built in the 1970's? or From 70 series trucks?
 
Hey guys, I have an axle form a 97 FZJ 80 I need to sell. It's in great shape, non locking. $400 in atlanta. I'll drive to meet if necessary.

Also, I'm looking for a running 1FZ-FE engine if anyone has one available. Thanks.
 
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