Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement

[gray rider]

cheers
[/QUOTE]

ps. if necessary, how difficult is it to tow this with this problem? TLC's should only be towed via flatbed truck, right?

cheers

Bumping this up: Any insight into towing methods? I got a busted ignition also.............

 

[Juanblzer]

cheers

Bumping this up: Any insight into towing methods? I got a busted ignition also.............
[/QUOTE]
Put tcase in neutral. Use a flatbed tow truck

 

[gray rider]

Roger that! That's what we needed. Thanks!

 

[gray rider]

And I should say that is what we suspected. The Mud Brothers never disappoint!

 

[gray rider]

Bumping this up: Any insight into towing methods? I got a busted ignition also.............

Put tcase in neutral. Use a flatbed tow truck
[/QUOTE]
I also forgot about the transmission manual punch button on the gear shift box. That knocks it out of gear manually as well

 

[gray rider]

I had the deal fix the ignition. When I got it back, I could turn the ignition key OFF while in DRIVE and pull the key out.
Fubar, yes??
Comments please.....?

 

[Changster]

Part arrived as well as Harbor Freight forceps. I do not see how it is possible to do this without the 12" forceps - for $5.99 it is a must have.

1998 TLC 240k broken off in ACC/ON, battery dead after a few days.

Using the improved procedure since Post #33 and YT Video...

I did not remove the seat. I put two boxes outside cab and just laid down into footwell.

Picture of my rod as broken

View attachment 1923276

I forgot to take picture of the broken piece's position but the steering lock pin was already pushed out to the right - it was not in the way.

I did not remove the black vent below steering wheel to get to the screws of the white round plastic sensor. I did not find it hard to reach with screw-driver from behind.

I first tried to back off the white round plastic sensor only 1/8th". This was not enough. My broken rod would not rotate counter-clockwise. I could rotate only clockwise 90 degrees (which also released the steering lock pin making it in the way). Versus the YT video, the 12" forceps have rounded tip and they pushed lock ping out of the way while grabbing rod. When I rotated rod back counter clockwise to found position - this also moved the steering lock ping back out. Shrug.


Even 3/16" wasn't enough.

I then carefully backed off the sensor by 1/4" inch. Only then could it rotate broken piece counter-clockwise 90 degrees and came out easily with the forceps.

View attachment 1923293

The steering lock pin was released again while removing the broken piece.

View attachment 1923294

I put the new rod in as described (12 oclock). I do not believe I was able to turn it counter clockwise to seat the slot of the rod end as described. This may have been a mistake. I then turned it clockwise and it felt solid - turned to 3-5 oclock'ish and settled on 4 oclock as prescribed.

View attachment 1923295

I found that tightening the screws was harder than I expected. I believe if you feel you may not have the rod slot seated correctly. At a point near fully tightened the sensor screws I heard a snap sound and a round white tab popped off the back of the sensor - about the size of paper hole punch-out. Ugh.

I think I had goofed and noticed that the brass tab was now at 3 to 3:30. I tested the play of the rod - it was not moveable. I decided to loosen the sensor again and once I had backed it off about 1/8th", with my finger on the rod, I felt/heard a click. Clearly the rod had now seated itself correctly in the sensor. I turned the rod back to 4 o'clock and tightened the sensor screws (which were also easier to tighten).

The rest of the procedure worked fine. Once I had the black/clear ring screwed in and plugged in I jump started and steering turned freely when ON.

I will do preventative fix on 05LC once my back feels better.

Very thankful for the procedure from this community.
[

Part arrived as well as Harbor Freight forceps. I do not see how it is possible to do this without the 12" forceps - for $5.99 it is a must have.

1998 TLC 240k broken off in ACC/ON, battery dead after a few days.

Using the improved procedure since Post #33 and YT Video...

I did not remove the seat. I put two boxes outside cab and just laid down into footwell.

Picture of my rod as broken

View attachment 1923276

I forgot to take picture of the broken piece's position but the steering lock pin was already pushed out to the right - it was not in the way.

I did not remove the black vent below steering wheel to get to the screws of the white round plastic sensor. I did not find it hard to reach with screw-driver from behind.

I first tried to back off the white round plastic sensor only 1/8th". This was not enough. My broken rod would not rotate counter-clockwise. I could rotate only clockwise 90 degrees (which also released the steering lock pin making it in the way). Versus the YT video, the 12" forceps have rounded tip and they pushed lock ping out of the way while grabbing rod. When I rotated rod back counter clockwise to found position - this also moved the steering lock ping back out. Shrug.


Even 3/16" wasn't enough.

I then carefully backed off the sensor by 1/4" inch. Only then could it rotate broken piece counter-clockwise 90 degrees and came out easily with the forceps.

View attachment 1923293

The steering lock pin was released again while removing the broken piece.

View attachment 1923294

I put the new rod in as described (12 oclock). I do not believe I was able to turn it counter clockwise to seat the slot of the rod end as described. This may have been a mistake. I then turned it clockwise and it felt solid - turned to 3-5 oclock'ish and settled on 4 oclock as prescribed.

View attachment 1923295

I found that tightening the screws was harder than I expected. I believe if you feel you may not have the rod slot seated correctly. At a point near fully tightened the sensor screws I heard a snap sound and a round white tab popped off the back of the sensor - about the size of paper hole punch-out. Ugh.

I think I had goofed and noticed that the brass tab was now at 3 to 3:30. I tested the play of the rod - it was not moveable. I decided to loosen the sensor again and once I had backed it off about 1/8th", with my finger on the rod, I felt/heard a click. Clearly the rod had now seated itself correctly in the sensor. I turned the rod back to 4 o'clock and tightened the sensor screws (which were also easier to tighten).

The rest of the procedure worked fine. Once I had the black/clear ring screwed in and plugged in I jump started and steering turned freely when ON.

I will do preventative fix on 05LC once my back feels better.

Very thankful for the procedure from this community.

My 2001 LX joined this group last week.

Watched and studied YT video several times and followed the instructions step by step. Best video!!! Thank you very much!
I felt obligated to contribute my latest difficulties frustrations to removing the broken piece.

There were two milestones to removing the broker piece. First, figuring out to align the notch on the broken piece like a key hole. Second, as notgivup98lc explained (thank you!), I had to loosen the plastic sensor screws to a point of top one, the one not visible, falling off during the coat hanger hook removal. This screw falling out was not a big deal as explained by prior instruction to use tape.

After towing my locked steering immobile car to my house I called the local Lexus dealer and they quoted between $1,150 to $1,650.
I order the steering column bracket (45280-60510) from eBay for $165 and spent five sessions of different day for a total of probably 8 hours to complete the job. But, I also took this opportunity to Oxy clean the carpets with the removal of driver seat and Lexol all the leather seats.

This forum never fails! Thank you everyone for your contributions...

 

[Jarfly]

Hey everyone,
This happened on my ‘03 LX470 the other week and here are my comments:

First: posts #33, 114, 154, 177, 297, and 336 were super valuable, as was the YouTube video. Thanks everyone!

Second: I had it towed and they didn’t use a flatbed truck; they raised the back wheels on “dollys”

Third: my wife and kids were up camping and I needed my truck to tow the trailer home, but the wait for the part was about 2 weeks (I’m in Canada, had to import the part from California, much harder to source for ‘03-‘07)...so had to come up with an interim solution. For anyone in the same predicament as me, here’s how to get up and running without a replacement part:

- take it all apart like the video and posts say, except remove the white part completely as well.
- get the broken piece out
- stick a properly sized pipe down the throat to disengage the steering lock. I wrapped the ends in duct tape to make it more snug and toggled to the left to ensure the lock remained disengaged
- connect your immobilizer and hold your key near it
- use a screwdriver to turn the ignition on the white part

I was a bit nervous but the pipe was so snug it wouldn’t budge, it was my only option and it worked. Got the trailer and family home today and will be getting the replacement part installed this week.

 

[Luckymudder]

Did 7853B in fact work? I joined the club yesterday and need to order the cylinder rod. Would rather not buy the entire assembly from Toyota...

 

[Luckymudder]

Rod stamped 7850B from eBay works beautifully. Just completed my repair tonight.

 

[OOCustoms]

4528060610

Got it from partsouq for 180ish shipped. My existing one wasn’t busted, so it only took about two hours start to finish, going nice and slow. Could probably do it in 45 min next time....

Same issue with my 2003 LC... so this part -4528060610- is the correct one?

 

[mdcoa]

Same issue with my 2003 LC... so this part -4528060610- is the correct one?

I don’t recall when the part numbers changed, but if you read this whole thread, the part number/year breakdown is in here. Alternatively, go to partsouq and enter your vin and start browsing parts diagrams—perhaps easier than reading the whole thread....

 

[OOCustoms]

IGNITION CAM ROD REPLACEMENT FOR 2003-07 LAND CRUISER
Ok, so I have a 2003 LC- the metal rod snapped. I ordered the whole bracket assembly part # 45280-60610 from a Toyota dealership- I paid about $265 . When the new bracket arrived I removed and then reinstalled the new metal rod multiple times on the workbench, paying attention to how it was oriented, and making sure that I always ended with the brass piece clocked at 11 o’clock when fully inserted down in the bracket-this helped me greatly when I did the actual install in the vehicle. ***Before you remove the new rod from the new bracket, note how far and at what orientation the rod is sticking out of the bottom of the bracket*** I pulled apart the dash, removing the plastic panel, disconnecting various switches, removing the metal sub panel and cranking the front seat all the way back- don't remove the seat, it's totally unnecessary. I disconnected and removed the immobilizer ring, then removed the key cylinder- the trick to that is to push in the tab in the hole on the top side of the bracket- it will then release. Next was the actual rod itself. I found the white plastic switch screwed to the bottom of the bracket assembly with the two screws up under the dash- it's not hard to get to. I carefully backed both of the screws out as far as I felt was possible without them completely coming out -about 5 or 6 turns each- that gave me about 1/4 of an inch of clearance between the white switch and the bottom of the bracket. The top part of the rod was easy to get out- The bottom was a pain in the ass . I ended up making a tool out of mechanics wire, basically just doubled up the wire and made a small loop at the end. The trick to getting out the bottom piece is that there is a spring loaded tab down inside on the right side that blocks the piece from being able to be pulled out. Take a thin long flat screwdriver and slide it down inside the bracket and hold that piece out of the way while you fish the broken piece out with the mechanics wire tool. There is a channel that runs down the inside the bracket at the 6 o'clock positionon that the screwdriver slides down and fits in quite easily- The screwdriver will sit in this channel and hold the spring-loaded lock back out of the way- this was how I finally got the bottom piece out . After that the rest was easy, since I had already practiced inserting the new rod into the bracket- I simply slid it in using a pair of needlenose pliers- pushing and turning clockwise to make sure that the brass part was clocked at 11 o’clock and put everything back together. ***Make sure you do not tighten the white switch under the dash on the bottom of the bracket until after you have the new rod installed and clocked correctly*** don’t tighten the screws on that switch until the rod is in .

 

[bobNoobie]

Mine join the exclusive club today with the ignition key freewheel.
I plan to do the screwdriver way until parts can come in.

 

[bobNoobie]

I in need of help .. I was going to put a temp hollow pipe to block the steering lock. But i cannot get the broken piece out of the tube. is it possible to start the car by shorting the ignition plug?

i only have a few minutes of daylight and i need to move the car

thx

 

[rdeb]

Hello, just wanted confirmation that the key cylinder is not directly attached to the cam rod/shaft. I heard a snap when turning the key and it was stuck in ACC position. Then key turned freely back and forth with no restriction. Dealer who looked at it wanted to replace both the bracket assembly and the cylinder set which would leave me with 2 different keys for my LC. Thank you for any advice.

 

[OOCustoms]

Hello, just wanted confirmation that the key cylinder is not directly attached to the cam rod/shaft. I heard a snap when turning the key and it was stuck in ACC position. Then key turned freely back and forth with no restriction. Dealer who looked at it wanted to replace both the bracket assembly and the cylinder set which would leave me with 2 different keys for my LC. Thank you for any advice.

No, don't listen to the dealer- they are separate Read my post above.

 

[rdeb]

Thank you OOCustoms!

 

[BeowulfOregon]

Rod stamped 7850B from eBay works beautifully. Just completed my repair tonight.

After installing the 7850B part, did you get any parasitic drain after taking out the key? Did you radio stay on after pulling out the key?
I installed the 7850b part in my 1998 LX470 and since then I have a parasitic drain that empties the battery overnight. I do not know if it is because of the 7850B part or if it is because I may have not put it in correctly. I have heard that the 7853b part is for the automatic steering column adjustment and the 7850b is for the manual steering column adjustment.

 

[Luckymudder]

After installing the 7850B part, did you get any parasitic drain after taking out the key? Did you radio stay on after pulling out the key?
I installed the 7850b part in my 1998 LX470 and since then I have a parasitic drain that empties the battery overnight. I do not know if it is because of the 7850B part or if it is because I may have not put it in correctly. I have heard that the 7853b part is for the automatic steering column adjustment and the 7850b is for the manual steering column adjustment.

Sorry to hear :/
I haven’t had similar issues. Mine was challenging to install but just took some time and works great.