Calling a LandCruiser a Corolla can get you shot around here... 
Busted front axle twice on 200 series
- Thread starter bigperm
- Start date
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Shotts, I don't know about the 100, but this is not the case for the 200. I have a video of me trying to do donuts in the mud and it wouldn't let me, even in 4LO/locked full throttle. I can email it to you if you'd like to review it...both from inside the cab and outside.
This is before I knew about the 3-second hold on the VSC button to turn off TRC. TRC is always on be default in all modes. I would gun it, turn the wheel inward and it would beep the hell at me and kill power. I do not recall any violent braking, however (it was mud, so I probably wouldn't feel it anyway). With the TRC disabled, this would have been a piece of cake!
The only thing I've managed to damage was allowing the vehicle to skid down a mud mountain while the vehicle was steering itself following a deep mud rut. If I stayed out of the rut, I couldn't steer at all, so the only safe way down was to drop the vehicle into the rut and let it slid down and steer itself. Well I blew my power steering pump but made it down safely.
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Makes sense in the 200 since they give you a TRAC-OFF mode. Are you saying that VSC stil works even when the CDL is locked?
Yes, only one of the modes (either VSC or TRC -- not sure, I forgot) works while in 4LO with the CDL locked. You have to hold the VSC or TRC button (only one, but I forgot what it's called) for 3-seconds to disable the other.
Too many systems even I get confused!
is anyone out there up to explaining the different systems (VSC, TRC, etc?) that are on the 200?
it is very apparent that several different systems are operating when you go play because as JB said, the computer keeps kicking in and killing the fun. with everything successfully turned off, this thing is a blast.
it is very apparent that several different systems are operating when you go play because as JB said, the computer keeps kicking in and killing the fun. with everything successfully turned off, this thing is a blast.
I think its a little hard to compare that video, with the scenario from the topicstarter
If he descriped his driving accurately, and there were no traction, it should not break
But it did break - twice, so his dealer should be a little more interested in finding the reason, rahter then just changing the parts
Tough luck!!
I'm running with a chip that deliver 360hp and 870NM on the diesel version, and I have been playing on dunes, beach, rocks, mud, get stuck several times but really didn't have a problem even with my Air Locker installed
I'm running with a chip that deliver 360hp and 870NM on the diesel version, and I have been playing on dunes, beach, rocks, mud, get stuck several times but really didn't have a problem even with my Air Locker installed
Warranty
Ive had issues in the past with things that should be/ shouldn't be covered. In most cases the dealers would do the minimum amount of work to help out. If pressed they would make some calls but they didn't normally go out of their way. I don't think the dealer is always your best friend when asking them to cover parts under warranty. You purchased an extremely expensive vehicle and you deserve better service. Toyota built their business this way even though dealerships sometimes forget.
I think the legal option is definitely one way to go but if I were you I would try and contact a regional Toyota rep and indicate your dissatisfaction. Sometimes the dealer will help with this. Usually the service manager is the one getting involved- i dont think the average service guy will help out. When ive done this the outcome is usually positive. If your still getting resistance tell them you have pics of the issue and how they occured and tell them your a member of a large number of car forums.
Might also want to point out that all the Tundra owners would like to see about the issue also.
I haven't had car issues recently but when I had some badly weather checked tires at 12K miles one of the dealers was hasseling me. His tech said he thought they were potentially dangerous but the Manager was being a PITA. I wasn't asking for free tires but asked him to pro-rate them and give me the same tires and I would pay the difference. His attitude was poor and there was no professionalism. I called the regional office and told them what i felt about the tires and poor service and concluded by telling him my buddies on the off-roading forums would love to see how the tires held up. I wasn't argumentative but explained the situation in a civil manner. They called the next day and said a new pair of tires would be waiting at the same dealer. I obviously didn't expect that and even told the guy that i wasn't asking for free tires but he insisted. In any event I feel Toyota is further on the customer advocacy scale then most other companies and they usually do right by their good customers. Anyone buying a new LC is probably in that group!
Ive had issues in the past with things that should be/ shouldn't be covered. In most cases the dealers would do the minimum amount of work to help out. If pressed they would make some calls but they didn't normally go out of their way. I don't think the dealer is always your best friend when asking them to cover parts under warranty. You purchased an extremely expensive vehicle and you deserve better service. Toyota built their business this way even though dealerships sometimes forget.
I think the legal option is definitely one way to go but if I were you I would try and contact a regional Toyota rep and indicate your dissatisfaction. Sometimes the dealer will help with this. Usually the service manager is the one getting involved- i dont think the average service guy will help out. When ive done this the outcome is usually positive. If your still getting resistance tell them you have pics of the issue and how they occured and tell them your a member of a large number of car forums.
Might also want to point out that all the Tundra owners would like to see about the issue also.I haven't had car issues recently but when I had some badly weather checked tires at 12K miles one of the dealers was hasseling me. His tech said he thought they were potentially dangerous but the Manager was being a PITA. I wasn't asking for free tires but asked him to pro-rate them and give me the same tires and I would pay the difference. His attitude was poor and there was no professionalism. I called the regional office and told them what i felt about the tires and poor service and concluded by telling him my buddies on the off-roading forums would love to see how the tires held up. I wasn't argumentative but explained the situation in a civil manner. They called the next day and said a new pair of tires would be waiting at the same dealer. I obviously didn't expect that and even told the guy that i wasn't asking for free tires but he insisted. In any event I feel Toyota is further on the customer advocacy scale then most other companies and they usually do right by their good customers. Anyone buying a new LC is probably in that group!
Hi bigperm,
Can you please confirm which side (left or right) broke? From the photo, it looks like the driver side CV broke, so wouldn't that make it the "left" side?
To me, this looks like the Left Hand Side, because I can see the yellow shock absorber is behind the CV, not in front of it.
I guess it all depends on perspective - if you are standing in front of the grille and looking back at the vehicle, then the driver side will be the front.
The reason why I am asking is because I'm collating some information regarding these breakages. In Australia, I have several cases, all seem to be on one side of the vehicle. In Australia the driver sits on the right side of the vehicle, and the side that is breaking is the Left Hand Side, where the front passenger side is - this is the same side as the driver's position in the USA.
Thanks in advance,
Lawrance
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While adding the diff drop mod last week I had a closer look at my CV boots and was horrified to note that my LEFT INNER CV boot looked like it was leaking. Not much but enough for a greazy smear to blacken the whole outer drive shaft housing. I cleaned it up after completing the diff drop and decided to have a look after a week to get a better idea of the extent of the leak if any. See pic below taken this morning. Its leaking for sure and will be checking the CV assembly and replacing the boot on Thursday ready for a back country adventure on the weekend.
The outer clamp is a little loose and will spin readily if pushed. I guess that allows just enough room for grease to press out through centilfugal pressure when it rotates. One hopes like hell that water has not got in. All other boots including the RHS are tighter than a fishe's 'proverbial' and the boots are as clean as a whistle.
So far as I'm aware all CV breakages have been on left inner CV boots I believe. (thats the CV closer to the front diff centre and consequently has a shorter drive shaft I'm guessing but not sure why that would make a difference) The current thinking down here is that the CV breakages have been happening as a result of the mix of an overly agressive traction control and over extended cv angles (perhaps over time) due to lift and lock. I have always disabled the Atrac system on the trail since installing front and rear lockers. So for all I know I may have been dodging a bullet.
If you have lifted your cruiser and do a bit of wheeling and you have done a few miles I'd urge you to check your CV boots. Regularly.
Afterall, they are all that is separating you from a world of grief. Mine's only done 125,000 kms.
Here's a tip for when you check: Start with your inner left boot. (no need to remove your shoes
)
_________________
Bill, 2010 TTD. The War Office has discovered my list of mods. I get shot at dawn.
The outer clamp is a little loose and will spin readily if pushed. I guess that allows just enough room for grease to press out through centilfugal pressure when it rotates. One hopes like hell that water has not got in. All other boots including the RHS are tighter than a fishe's 'proverbial' and the boots are as clean as a whistle.
So far as I'm aware all CV breakages have been on left inner CV boots I believe. (thats the CV closer to the front diff centre and consequently has a shorter drive shaft I'm guessing but not sure why that would make a difference) The current thinking down here is that the CV breakages have been happening as a result of the mix of an overly agressive traction control and over extended cv angles (perhaps over time) due to lift and lock. I have always disabled the Atrac system on the trail since installing front and rear lockers. So for all I know I may have been dodging a bullet.
If you have lifted your cruiser and do a bit of wheeling and you have done a few miles I'd urge you to check your CV boots. Regularly.
Afterall, they are all that is separating you from a world of grief. Mine's only done 125,000 kms.
Here's a tip for when you check: Start with your inner left boot. (no need to remove your shoes
)_________________
Bill, 2010 TTD. The War Office has discovered my list of mods. I get shot at dawn.
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I would contact Pfran and order some McMaster Carr clamps from him. They are what most 100 guys use to stop this kind of leaking. I threw a couple on my vehicle and problem solved.
Markuson
SILVER Star
So I'm reading through this thread from some time back...
Can anyone here explain what to specifically do so that this does NOT happen?
Several posts up...there is this:
"it is very apparent that several different systems are operating when you go play because as JB said, the computer keeps kicking in and killing the fun. with everything successfully turned off, this thing is a blast."
So... What must be turned off, exactly?? It seems like there's this hidden "death combo" of settings that can lead to breakage... ??
Can anyone here explain what to specifically do so that this does NOT happen?
Several posts up...there is this:
"it is very apparent that several different systems are operating when you go play because as JB said, the computer keeps kicking in and killing the fun. with everything successfully turned off, this thing is a blast."
So... What must be turned off, exactly?? It seems like there's this hidden "death combo" of settings that can lead to breakage... ??
I had issues with my CV boot on my previous 08' 200series after I had it lifted. Once I did the Diff drop I never had a problem with it. I highly recommend a diff drop.
I broke a axle on a road trip 5000 on the beast . I was on vacation and the local dealers were less then helpful . Anyhow local shop had a tundra axel and rebuilt mine for me to get me back home. took 4 months for Toyota to finally reimburse me for the cost. I haven't said much about it because the case with Toyota was pending but they did finally pay last week .just a pain todo so
