Burning rubber smell

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Reviving this thread - I have the burnt rubber smell inside my 2009 LX. It is there during cold starts or while I am driving. Sometimes even my garage smells rubber. I thought my winter tires are getting overheated. There are no oil leaks on my garage floor. It has 123k miles on it. Had the vehicle inspection done at the dealer before buying it used from a private party. It came out perfect with no issues. No leaks nothing. Had the 120k service done 4 months back. The smell is getting stronger by the day. I am not a car guy to start with. What exactly I should be checking? Under carriage? Underhood? If I take it to the repair shop, what I should be really looking for or asking for them to check? Thanks in advance.
 
Reviving this thread - I have the burnt rubber smell inside my 2009 LX. It is there during cold starts or while I am driving. Sometimes even my garage smells rubber. I thought my winter tires are getting overheated. There are no oil leaks on my garage floor. It has 123k miles on it. Had the vehicle inspection done at the dealer before buying it used from a private party. It came out perfect with no issues. No leaks nothing. Had the 120k service done 4 months back. The smell is getting stronger by the day. I am not a car guy to start with. What exactly I should be checking? Under carriage? Underhood? If I take it to the repair shop, what I should be really looking for or asking for them to check? Thanks in advance.
Did you find it?

Also, your 2009 is a 100 series correct? This is an 80 series thread.
 
I've been noticing this as well: kind of vaguely like burnt brakes/rubber when I get out of the truck. It's mostly from the engine bay and also from the passenger seat footrest area. Not sure if I should be concerned or not.

Has anyone fixed this by resealing their oil pan and/or steering pump? And does anyone not notice this smell, or is it just the nature of the beast?
 
I think everything has been covered although I will throw this in, what about a brake caliper piston sticking and heating up the rubber seal? Also another possibility is a plastic bag has got jammed between the exhaust and heat shield, it will shrink to virtually nothing so difficult to spot, but might be worth a good look?

Regards

Dave
 
I think everything has been covered although I will throw this in, what about a brake caliper piston sticking and heating up the rubber seal? Also another possibility is a plastic bag has got jammed between the exhaust and heat shield, it will shrink to virtually nothing so difficult to spot, but might be worth a good look?

Regards

Dave
Yea I checked that: couldn’t see any pistons sticking
 
@Ozark80 have you recently greased the rear driveshaft? Every time I add grease to the one on my 80 it slings grease onto the muffler then the grease slowly cooks/burns over time. Typically I smell this periodically for a few weeks after I add grease.
 
I tracked my burnt rubber smell down.

The hood is a skin that is glued to the frame of the hood. The old black material used to glue the hood and frame together becomes brittle. As you drive down the road it vibrates chunks of that rubber adhesive off which then roll down the hood insulator and on the hot parts on the engine.

I replaced my hood insulator, upgraded to the Wit's End triple nozzle windshield washer ports and re-glued the hood to the frame with 3M marine adhesive.

Side note:
Man oh man! Let's take a second and talk about @NLXTACY triple washer nozzles! Holly S*+#, talk about project deluge good Lord it's amazing. Also Joey gave me the idea for the 3M marine sealer, as well as caution on using this product, it can make a huge mess if you get in a hurry. I was like..... What do I glue this back with, what's the Toyota part number..
.. I appreciate your solutions for problems I didn't know I had you're an invaluable resource and I appreciate the hell out of you!

The Solution:
*Caution* this is not a "how fast can you get it done process". Make sure you're using this product in the right temperature range as labeled, this is critical to a long lasting solution.

I broke off as much of the old black rubber goo as possible to prevent the burning smell going forward. used a plastic putty knife and plastic tools to gently work the old adhesive off the seams.

You'll see in the first photo I use a drop cloth to capture any loose chunks. I then switched to paper to prevent any goo from dripping on my engine when I'm reglooing.

I cut the tip of the 3M marine sealer at about a 45°. My first cut was about 3/16 of an opening and that seemed to work quite well for using the pressure of the caulk gun to force new goo into the seams.

Only reglue the previously glued areas.

Read the cleanup on the product you're using for me it was acetone, in a few areas I use my finger dipped in acetone to make a smooth edge forcing the glue into the seams.

Gently, very gently set the hood down don't close it. Resist the urge to mess with it for at least 24 hours.

A trip to the Rubicon, many highway miles and other off-road trips no burning smell.

When you close your hood it should make a thud not vibrate and sound hollow. While driving down the road if your hood skin is loose you'll actually see it vibrating in the wind and when you close your hood you'll see and hear it vibrate as well. This issue is common with our 80 series landcruisers and the symptoms are an indication your skin is loose, in need of some love.

3M automotive sealer also works but I went with the 3M marine grade once I looked at the temperature spread for the two different products.

Storage:
So, you finally found the right sealer it might not have been easy.... Now you have a quarter to 1/3 tube left do you really want to throw it away? Cork it, Wrap it into Ziploc bags, put in fridge for a rainy day.

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I tracked my burnt rubber smell down.

The hood is a skin that is glued to the frame of the hood. The old black material used to glue the hood and frame together becomes brittle. As you drive down the road it vibrates chunks of that rubber adhesive off which then roll down the hood insulator and on the hot parts on the engine.

I replaced my hood insulator, upgraded to the Wit's End triple nozzle windshield washer ports and re-glued the hood to the frame with 3M marine adhesive.

*Caution* this is not a "how fast can you get it done process". Make sure you're using this product in the right temperature range as labeled, this is critical to a long lasting solution.

I broke off as much of the old black rubber goo as possible to prevent the burning smell going forward. used a plastic putty knife and plastic tools to gently work the old adhesive off the seams.

You'll see in the first photo I use a drop cloth to capture any loose chunks. I then switched to paper to prevent any goo from dripping on my engine when I'm reglooing.

I cut the tip of the 3M marine sealer at about a 45°. My first cut was about 3/16 of an opening and that seemed to work quite well for using the pressure of the caulk gun to force new goo into the scene.

Only reglue the previously glued areas.

Read the cleanup on the product you're using for me it was acetone, in a few areas I use my finger dipped in acetone to make a smooth edge forcing the glue into the seams.

Gently, very gently set the hood down don't close it. Resist the urge to mess with it for at least 24 hours.

A trip to the Rubicon, many highway miles and other off-road trips no burning smell.

When you close your hood it should make a thud not vibrate and sound hollow. While driving down the road if your hood skin is loose you'll actually see it vibrating in the wind and when you close your hood you'll see and hear it vibrate as well. This issue is common with our 80 series landcruisers and the symptoms are an indication your skin is loose, in need of some love.

3M automotive sealer also works but I went with the 3M marine grade once I looked at the temperature spread for the two different products.

View attachment 2903097

View attachment 2903098

View attachment 2903099
Thanks, I never would’ve thought of that!
 
Thanks, I never would’ve thought of that!
I didn't even realize it was the old goo droplets until one day I was considering replacing the insulator and pieces fell out the bottom with the hood open.

You got to love mud we all share our experiences make each other's lives easier and enjoy the hell out of our 80 series Land cruisers.

I actually took a piece of the old adhesive sit on my exhaust manifold and compared sure enough that was the smell.

I should probably place that brief write-up over in a hoodskin thread. Does anyone have any suggestions on where that should go?
 
@BillyGoatMTB - congrats!

-I swore this was just going down as ‘one of life’s mysteries’ & I was fine w/ it.

Awesome you figured it out!

So what do ya know about Bigfoot/yeti’s & the Bermuda Triangle?

-Or that D.B. Cooper -name ring any bells for you? :hillbilly:
 
@BillyGoatMTB - congrats!

-I swore this was just going down as ‘one of life’s mysteries’ & I was fine w/ it.

Awesome you figured it out!

So what do ya know about Bigfoot/yeti’s & the Bermuda Triangle?

-Or that D.B. Cooper -name ring any bells for you? :hillbilly:
Hahaha


All right let me put on my tin foil hat real quick :flipoff2::hillbilly:

Yeti/Sasquatch either interdimensional and or real...... This could have something to do with the anunnaki and leaving Giants behind the guard knowledge........

For the Bermuda triangle Atlantis and others this most likely loops back to Sasquatch and Bigfoot I would suggest YouTube Graham Hancock and bright insight. Humans are a species with amnesia about their past.

D.B. ..... Man that's wild.... I'm thinking either a lucky and seriously badass dude or maybe a federal provocateur working to exploit vulnerabilities and increase security.

JFK.... Follow the money... And power....

Hahaha..... That was fun

I forgot to post back to this thread I imagine anybody who's having the same issue if they go out with the hood open and just tap on the insulator black goo droplets are going to fall out and there you go there's your problem that's kind of how I found mine then I connected the dots............

Why is goo falling out, why is my hood vibrating, wait..... Ahh HA!!! BY GEORGE THATS IT! Now how do I fix it.

Those of us actually most of us work on our own rigs and that smell is very uncomfortable.
 
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I tracked my burnt rubber smell down.

The hood is a skin that is glued to the frame of the hood. The old black material used to glue the hood and frame together becomes brittle. As you drive down the road it vibrates chunks of that rubber adhesive off which then roll down the hood insulator and on the hot parts on the engine.

I replaced my hood insulator, upgraded to the Wit's End triple nozzle windshield washer ports and re-glued the hood to the frame with 3M marine adhesive.

Side note:
Man oh man! Let's take a second and talk about @NLXTACY triple washer nozzles! Holly S*+#, talk about project deluge good Lord it's amazing. Also Joey gave me the idea for the 3M marine sealer, as well as caution on using this product, it can make a huge mess if you get in a hurry. I was like..... What do I glue this back with, what's the Toyota part number..
.. I appreciate your solutions for problems I didn't know I had you're an invaluable resource and I appreciate the hell out of you!

The Solution:
*Caution* this is not a "how fast can you get it done process". Make sure you're using this product in the right temperature range as labeled, this is critical to a long lasting solution.

I broke off as much of the old black rubber goo as possible to prevent the burning smell going forward. used a plastic putty knife and plastic tools to gently work the old adhesive off the seams.

You'll see in the first photo I use a drop cloth to capture any loose chunks. I then switched to paper to prevent any goo from dripping on my engine when I'm reglooing.

I cut the tip of the 3M marine sealer at about a 45°. My first cut was about 3/16 of an opening and that seemed to work quite well for using the pressure of the caulk gun to force new goo into the seams.

Only reglue the previously glued areas.

Read the cleanup on the product you're using for me it was acetone, in a few areas I use my finger dipped in acetone to make a smooth edge forcing the glue into the seams.

Gently, very gently set the hood down don't close it. Resist the urge to mess with it for at least 24 hours.

A trip to the Rubicon, many highway miles and other off-road trips no burning smell.

When you close your hood it should make a thud not vibrate and sound hollow. While driving down the road if your hood skin is loose you'll actually see it vibrating in the wind and when you close your hood you'll see and hear it vibrate as well. This issue is common with our 80 series landcruisers and the symptoms are an indication your skin is loose, in need of some love.

3M automotive sealer also works but I went with the 3M marine grade once I looked at the temperature spread for the two different products.

Storage:
So, you finally found the right sealer it might not have been easy.... Now you have a quarter to 1/3 tube left do you really want to throw it away? Cork it, Wrap it into Ziploc bags, put in fridge for a rainy day.

View attachment 2903097

View attachment 2903098

View attachment 2903099

View attachment 2903138
So this might be a dumb question, but is there any reason to install a new hood insulator other than retaining the originality, or could I just delete it along with all the adhesive etc. and run it with just the hood frame?
 
So this might be a dumb question, but is there any reason to install a new hood insulator other than retaining the originality, or could I just delete it along with all the adhesive etc. and run it with just the hood frame?
Well that is a hot subject on mud and has been for some time.

I went with a new insulator for cosmetics of originality and to reduce noise from the engine bay. I suppose some of me wanting a hood insulator also was to keep from baking my paint but that's the highly debated part on mud.

Some have said that pre-95s did not have Hood insulators, many here on mud say they run no hood insulator for years.

I like the hood insulator for the reasons I listed.
 
My insulator started to crumble so I took it off before it fell onto the engine. I have not managed to find a second hand replacement near enough to me and no doubt it would fall apart in the post, new IIRC they were something like 200.00 euros? So the 80 has not had one in ages, and the paint (or rather the lacquer has peeled from the rest of the car paint so it could do with a respray, and that will not happen unless I know I am getting my licence back in June/July.

I think the felt was only there for noise, you see it on BMW's, Merc's and other high end cars, you don't see it on your everyday run of the mill Renault's, Peugeot's and Ford's

Regards

Dave
 
So that weird smell that engulfs the truck and chokes me out, is the hood insulation mat. But the smell seeps in from the passenger side, so bad I can't even drive it. My exhaust is rusted, so I always figured it was that until I got under it and could smell anything by the exhaust. The smell is at my passenger door 😅😅😅😅😅😅
 
My burning smell has greatly improved after removing all the insulation. But I still get an occasional smell in the cabin, and it's more obvious outside the truck near the engine bay, but again nowhere near as strong as when all the insulation was burning off.

It's particularly noticeable in the passenger footwell area. Is it possible for leaking fluids to burn off and create a smell inside the cab? Or is it more likely to be a brake issue?
 
As I stated in an earlier post my burning rubber smells completely gone since relaminating my hood skin and replacing the insulator.

However, I still get chunks of that black rubber Hood glue coming out of random holes in the hood when I'm Wheeling, I find them in the battery tray they land on the little shield under the radiator.

For me the burning rubber cell was the black hood skin glue coming off in chunks because it was brittle.
 
As I stated in an earlier post my burning rubber smells completely gone since relaminating my hood skin and replacing the insulator.

However, I still get chunks of that black rubber Hood glue coming out of random holes in the hood when I'm Wheeling, I find them in the battery tray they land on the little shield under the radiator.

For me the burning rubber cell was the black hood skin glue coming off in chunks because it was brittle.
Now that you mention it I sometimes hear stuff fall down inside the hood when I lift it up. Do you know of any way to clean out the inside of the hood frame?
 
Now that you mention it I sometimes hear stuff fall down inside the hood when I lift it up. Do you know of any way to clean out the inside of the hood frame?
I suppose if you were adventurous you could have a friend help you, remove the hood I'd put something soft on the concrete of the garage you could probably shake a lot of stuff out.

You'll know if you have stuff in there because if you open your hood and shake it you'll hear a bunch of stuff from there jiggling around.

The burning rubber smell drove me nuts for quite a while till I finally figured it out. Further back in an earlier post you can see how I glued my hood back together and that glue seem to stabilize the rest of the black brittle old glue.
 

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