After 6 months of the 2lt I am sick of how slow its is, so I was thinking about changing it for a 3l or 5l as my friend has a 3l hilux which goes way better. So how hard is this conversion and should I go for a whole donor car or just buy an engine. And is the 5l any better than a 3l or is there any other engines that would suit? And here's a pic of my bundy.
Bundera engine choices
- Thread starter Wildly d
- Start date
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GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
How about more boost and fuel? 
Not sure about the early 2LT power potential, but I can say the 2LT-II and 2LTE can make some very decent power with intercooler/exhaust and a tune (20psi + fuel to match). My LJ78 is quicker than a stock HDJ81....
Not sure about the early 2LT power potential, but I can say the 2LT-II and 2LTE can make some very decent power with intercooler/exhaust and a tune (20psi + fuel to match). My LJ78 is quicker than a stock HDJ81....- Thread starter
- #3
I have had a look into it and in the early 2lt it seems running more than about 14psi even with a intercooler will cause high egt's and eventually death of the motor.How about more boost and fuel?
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
The early 2LT ran a more limited version of the CT20 turbo charger. It has a smaller compressor and a larger turbine than the later one. Sort of the opposite of what you want. It's possible that it's less efficient and thus creates more heat/egt than the later turbo. A good intercooler should be able to overcome this though I would think. You could look into turbo upgrade options also? There are CT20 to Garrett T25 adapters out there.
The 3L/5L engines will probably not solve your desire for more power. Thus you'll end up wanting to turbo them too. Which will put you right into the same boat you're in now.
Not sure about the early 2LT, but the 1990+ versions have really good pistons built for boost. The whole piston crown has an internal cooling passage which oil is squirted into by the block pistons oil squirters. This prevents cracked pistons etc. that can happen when turboing a normally aspirated diesel.
Why don't you install a manual boost controller and tune to 14psi to see what it's like? You might have to adjust your boost compensator. Is your injection pump a 9mm or 10mm?
- Thread starter
- #6
What egts are the max a 2lt can take
Call me old fashioned, but the Bundeeras are disappearing faster than tassie tigers in Australia and some day they will be valuable. Yours doesnt look too bad in the pics, I would stick to an L engine before you start chopping it up to fit something else.
If your mates 3L Hilux is outpacing you, maybe your engine is getting tired.
Is there any rust in it?
- Thread starter
- #8
Thinking I might stick with the 2l and try running more fuel and boost but not to much just want it to go a little better on the hiway. And yes there is two tiny specs in the windscreen that are going off to get fixed early next year.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thinking I might stick with the 2l and try running more fuel and boost but not to much just want it to go a little better on the hiway. And yes there is two tiny specs in the windscreen that are going off to get fixed early next year.
Hello,
x2.
Landcruisers are not so fast to start with.
Either the engine is tired or it needs some tuning.
Juan
You might be able to improve it with a newer type of turbo
I'd be looking for a 1KZ, get the whole engine, gbox & transfer if you can, they came in essentially the same car, the KZJ71 so you won't get an easier swap.
Having said that, a 2L-T should go at least as well as a 3L, power & torque specs are much the same. Give the 2L-T a bit of tuning love & it should go quite a bit better than a 3L. Although the 2L-T* motors were about the least reliable thing Toyota made in their era, & the 3L was one of the most durable.
Cheers
Clint
Having said that, a 2L-T should go at least as well as a 3L, power & torque specs are much the same. Give the 2L-T a bit of tuning love & it should go quite a bit better than a 3L. Although the 2L-T* motors were about the least reliable thing Toyota made in their era, & the 3L was one of the most durable.
Cheers
Clint
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
The only real difference between the two was the turbo! I tell people if they want a super reliable 2LT/2LTE just to take the turbo off. Less heat, less problems. LOL
Of course running higher boost and an intercooler also makes heat much less an issue. That's the option I chose.
The only real difference between the two was the turbo! I tell people if they want a super reliable 2LT/2LTE just to take the turbo off. Less heat, less problems. LOL
Of course running higher boost and an intercooler also makes heat much less an issue. That's the option I chose.
Yep, The 2L is pretty bombproof too. Here in NZ you still see quite a few 80's & 90's 2L/3L powered Hiluxes & Hiaces cruising around, but the 2LT engined Surfs & Prados from the same era are very rare, they all blew up long ago.
Cheers
Clint
1HZ or no dice. I’m sorry that I disagree with most everyone here, but why bother transplanting a motor for more gofast if it’s not truly an improvement?
I say HZ because it’s a swb truck. I recon night/day difference with you have right now. Toyota still makes the motor So parts are plentiful. I bet it’s cheaper to buy and rebuild a HZ then any light duty motor in your neck of the woods.
I say HZ because it’s a swb truck. I recon night/day difference with you have right now. Toyota still makes the motor So parts are plentiful. I bet it’s cheaper to buy and rebuild a HZ then any light duty motor in your neck of the woods.
- Thread starter
- #17
Would be fine in a bj70 but the lj70 has completely different driveline and it's hard to convert
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
1HZ is great until you put a turbo on it. Fundamentally it's all the same tech as the L and KZ series. The L series (2L, 3L, 5L) WITHOUT a turbo will last just as long as a 1HZ. Put a turbo on the 1HZ and run the same ridiculously high OEM EGT's and EGR system as the factory L and KZ series, and the cylinder head will fail just as fast. That's what most people miss about this whole thing. IDI's simply DON'T take well to turbos. Keep them normally aspirated and they last forever. Turbo any of them, work them hard, and you'll have guaranteed challenges. Even the domestic turbo diesels like the GM 6.5, Ford 7.3 IDI, etc. are all way more fragile than their direct injection replacements (Duramax 6.6 and Powerstroke 7.3).
So in a nutshell, any Toyota normally aspirated indirect injection diesel will be reliable. Go big displacement (1HZ) if you want more power. OR, go Toyota turbo direct injection diesel (1HD-T).
