Built to the Hilt FJ80 Suspension

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This is all I have.

FJ80 Proto Type 03b.jpg


FJ80 Proto Type 04b.jpg
 
I notice you have designed the frame mounts for the arms to sit inboard of the frame rail. Is this to prevent rubbing of the tire on the arm?

I may have to relocate my frame mounts as I have more rubbing than I expected.
 
This is all I have.

Thanks for posting. The link mounts on the axle and frame look great and I love the steering setup. Is it a 3-link design? I couldn't tell from the pictures.
 
I love your work and am looking forward to seeing everything come together for the 80. Maybe someday you'll do a kit for a 60 series cruiser :cheers:
 
yes it is a 3link.

Are you planning to eliminate body role through the sway bar and coilover setups? I'm excited to see how you are going to build a 3-link that works as well on-road as off-road!

Any details on your plans for the rear?

And, while I know you're still building everything, do you have any ball park timing and pricing of the setup for others who are interested?

Thanks.
 
Are you planning to eliminate body role through the sway bar and coilover setups? I'm excited to see how you are going to build a 3-link that works as well on-road as off-road!

Any details on your plans for the rear?

And, while I know you're still building everything, do you have any ball park timing and pricing of the setup for others who are interested?

Thanks.

Well, first off so anyone and everyone knows or is informed. Lifting a vehicle will increase body roll because of the center of gravity. And to go off road and use the SUSPENSION as it should you have to soften the spring. So naturally you will increase body roll because of these two factors. Now there are things you can do to counter that but lets not pretend or foul anyone. There will be more body roll than the stock OEM system. The trick is to minimize it while keeping as much on road handling as possible. If you control how fast the body lean comes into play and how severe, then even in hairy situations you'll have a system that is still comfortable to drive with predictable handling. Remember, even the best Baja trucks still have body roll. Tweak this and tweak that and you can minimize it, but you'll never get ride of it unless you simply run a crazy stiff spring.
 
That will be slow. I need to make sure nothing has to change before production. And I need to see what will be needed in order to reduce body roll. ;)

This build is completely one off, so there will be a lot of reverse engineering to reproduce the brackets without a whole lot of additional labor. But this should be available before the end of the year.
 
Shock valving is as important as the correct spring rate to prevent body roll, and control movement.


A more heavily sprung truck will still compress the spring, even with heavy sway bars.

We have spent much time playing with this over the years, and we run 350-400lb rear coils, in an 80, and we run 280-300lb fronts, as well as 80% and 130% firmer sway bars, and at slow speed, they will still travel.

[pic is with the above extra firm coils and sway bars, and the vehile is unloaded]

mccrae80-127.jpg


For 3"" lift, bump spacers,a nd 37's, unloaded, its not "awesome" but it isnt fully travleed either, given it has around 1200# unloaded out of it at the time, and no fuel in the tanks.

Setting the valving so you can run firmer, but to allow some small movement to make it more supple on road, while controlling the movement, especially as it comes full stroke is where the black magic comes in, along with variable rate coils, which can be softer in the last part of thier travel to stop the vehicle kicking off, and flexing easier, when getting close to the travel limits.

Castor on road, neg camber for bigger tyres [tires] and angles like above, to stop roll steer, if it does lean, and chnaging wheelbase each side are also key factors.

This will be the key to a great driving/riding/travelling 3 link, vs just a travelling 3 link.
 
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:rolleyes:
Shock valving is as important as the correct spring rate to prevent body roll, and control movement.


A more heavily sprung truck will still compress the spring, even with heavy sway bars.

We have spent much time playing with this over the years, and we run 350-400lb rear coils, in an 80, and we run 280-300lb fronts, as well as 80% and 130% firmer sway bars, and at slow speed, they will still travel.

[pic is with the above extra firm coils and sway bars, and the vehile is unloaded]

[URL="http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/assassin_offroad/ROOBY/rooby4wdactionpage8.jpg"][URL="http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/assassin_offroad/ROOBY/rooby4wdactionpage8.jpg"][URL="http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/assassin_offroad/ROOBY/rooby4wdactionpage8.jpg"][URL="http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/assassin_offroad/ROOBY/rooby4wdactionpage8.jpg"][/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL]

For 3"" lift, bump spacers,a nd 37's, unloaded, its not "awesome" but it isnt fully travleed either, given it has around 1200# unloaded out of it at the time, and no fuel in the tanks.

Setting the valving so you can run firmer, but to allow some small movement to make it more supple on road, while controlling the movement, especially as it comes full stroke is where the black magic comes in, along with variable rate coils, which can be softer in the last part of thier travel to stop the vehicle kicking off, and flexing easier, when getting close to the travel limits.

Castor on road, neg camber for bigger tyres [tires] and angles like above, to stop roll steer, if it does lean, and chnaging wheelbase each side are also key factors.

This will be the key to a great driving/riding/travelling 3 link, vs just a travelling 3 link.

:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 

If there is some detail there you think isnt correct as far as handling goes Big Boy, spit it out, Im sure you have so much to share, but your holding back on everyone who would like to know.

Otherwise you just add fluff..

Part of SpeechDefinition
Noun"Fluff"
Something of little value or significance.
 
Its ok. Im happy to just read and do the eye's roll faces :). You talk as if your the foremost expert, and post pics of articles to justify what you are saying. Have you built a 3 link front? You say you have been playing with this set up for years, and the best you can come up with is heavy spring rates and valving? I think you should just step back and see what this guy comes up with. Maybe he knows something you dont.
 

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