Builds Build Thread: RE-BILT BY ME (6 Viewers)

[BILT4ME]

I finally decided to create a build thread for my 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser.

I've been participating on here for the last year and a half, while I have done some work on it. I have finally reached the point that I need to create a thread so I can keep track of what all I've done.

Purchased Feb. 2012 with 196,456 miles.
Black, 1996 LC FZJ80 with Chrome Package and Chrome Brush Guard

PO Maintenance done:
Head gasket at about 152K
None

The PO had done little to no maintenance on this truck. The SHORT list to make it driveable is:
Remove the window tint from front DS and PS windows to see out.
DS mirror rebuild
Windshield wiper motor
Left Hood Gas Strut
Vacuum it out
Charge battery
Air freshener inside

The good news is that it runs very well, there is NO rust on it.

I bought this truck for the right price, knowing full well how much work it needed. I also understood that Toyotas cost a bunch for parts and rebuilds. I bought it from a neighbor. This was their youngest son's first car, and he was not kind to it, as you will read further in my thread.

One of the things I need the truck for is to transport a power wheelchair for our youngest son. This is also going to be a third vehicle while we prepare for our oldest son to get his driving permit (age 14) and get his school permit so he can take over my old vehicle, a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ. This will become my DD, our teaching tool for the oldest to learn on, and hopefully, a throwback to my old 4wheeling days, with a lot more luxury!

My first truck I built in high school a LONG time ago, and it's name was BILT4ME. This thread is in remembrance of that one, as I sold it a month before our oldest was born. Technically, this will be BILT4ME2, but that doesn't fit on a license plate....

More details and pics to come!

 

[Juan Munoz]

Clean LC! How many miles does it have now?

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks! I REALLY enjoy driving it (except for the gas mileage of 12-15 MPG). It's at 221K now. It is currently in the garage getting the front axle rebuilt and replacing the cooling system after a radiator explosion. As I get time, I'll expand and include pictures.

 

[BILT4ME]

EDITED 2/24/2017 for update.

COOLING SYSTEM ONLY SECTION:

The top of the radiator exploded on a warm day when I was under WOT pulling onto the interstate. As soon as I backed out of the throttle just slightly, it allowed the A/C to engage and it snapped the AC belt (crappy Gates aftermarket cogged belts) which then tangled with the alternator belts and ended up wrapping up all of them nice and tight around the water pump.

I replaced the following:
Radiator
Radiator Cap
Thermostat
Upper and lower radiator hoses
All coolant hoses within easy reach

When I pulled the radiator, I then flushed the block with a garden hose for about 30 minutes. I also did my best to flush both directions trough the block and through the heater core both directions.

The PO had mixed red and green coolant and I had a really nice brown sludge in there that also caused the radiator cap to not relieve and led to the radiator exploding.

After I got it all back together (axles, cooling system) I filled it with distilled water (about 5 gallons) and then drove it to work and around for the day. It was in the mid-60's so I did not need to worry about it freezing in the block. As soon as I got home, I would pull the lower hose and empty it again as well as remove the block plug. I repeated this process (6) times.

On the last time, it was still pretty clear, and I had figured out by then just how much I had to fill it with each time, so I could get my coolant/water ratios set correctly. Each time, I would shut it off with the nose pointing downhill and drain it. Then I would refill it and reposition it so it was nose uphill on my driveway (kind of steep

I chose at that time to go with Toyota Red Coolant because it was "The Best". A month after I did this, Toyota discontinued Toyota Red, and CDAN approved use of GREEN for everyone. When the time comes, I will repeat the flushing process and use green.

I realized after I did all this that it may appear that the PO did NOT replace the PHH when the head was rebuilt at 145K like I originally thought. So, I still have the possibility that I may encounter a bad PHH one day.

Still to replace:
Heater Valve
PHH
Other less than PHH hoses
Rear heater hoses/lines (I am NOT going to delete the rear heat!)

 

[BILT4ME]

McMaster Carr Rear Lift Gate Cylinders

Cylinders:
4138T579 (Same as 4138T57) (Gas Spring 19.72" Extended Lg., 90 lbs. Extension Force with Ball Stud Ends) (Qty 2) ($17.51 ea.)
Nuts:
90257A045 (Super-Corrosion-Resistant 316 SS Hex Nut 5/16"-18 Thread Size, 9/16" Width, 7/32" Height) (Qty 1 pack of 10) ($4.22/Pk)

There is a little drilling and MINOR fabrication involved, but it raises the tip of the upper gate about 10".
The wind deflector on the top ALMOST hits the roof when it is up. However, it holds it up in -21°F weather. (Tested)

My wife has a hard time reaching it now, but both my son and I have no problem grabbing it. (6'-2" and 6'-1") But neither hit our head on it anymore.

2/20/22: Finally added the information to my build thread. Installed 10/24/2013 at 216898 mi. Currently at 326565 mi and still doing well.

Struts, gas struts, lift cylinders, rear gate cylinders, mcmaster carr lift gate mod

 

[BILT4ME]

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[BILT4ME]

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[BILT4ME]

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[BILT4ME]

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[BILT4ME]

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[BILT4ME]

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[BILT4ME]

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[BILT4ME]

Finally got the front bumper installed again. Spent a lot of time stripping and repainting...twice. Part of that due to the learning curve for our son, but also attributed to the conical spray nozzle on the spray cans.

Stripped the bumper to bare metal, straightened it, filled the few small dings, sanded, primed, and painted with the Duplicolor Graphite Wheel paint. (Don't use the clear....It really mottles the final finish.)

i had a woman back into the front of me and bent the front bumper and the damage multiplier. Had to use that payout to do the major PM the truck desperately needed (brakes and axle rebuild)

Finally getting it cleaned up. I will re-install the damage multiplier until I get my front bumper designed and built. Kind of like an ARB bull Bar, but slightly different.

Still have to complete the bumperettes and get those installed. Maybe in the next few weeks......

 

[BILT4ME]

Pics of bumper rework next post.

 

[BILT4ME]

Pics attached

 

[BILT4ME]

I've posted many things in many places over the years.
I suppose I should use this spot for all my questions and posts....
My LC has rolled up to 380K this week, and it decided to give me a challenge.

I was pulling onto the interstate with a lot of traffic, actually moving quickly. I went WOT for about a mile pulling 4500 RPM.
After I backed out of it, I could hear a whistling that was definitely engine speed related.
I could also smell heavy exhaust.
It felt like it was struggling to stay at speed (70 MPH) and I would step on it to downshift, and it would downshift, but with the higher RPM, it seemed to struggle even more.

Anyway, I get it home, and the vacuum hose from the EGR valve to the EGR modulator is gone, as in missing.
It idled fine.
Next morning I drove it to work, and it couldn't even make 55 MPH on the interstate. It would rev up to a point, but then it couldn't go anymore. Once it shifted, it was kinda happy again. It seemed to work better up to about 2500 RPM, but above that, it struggled. (I still have not replaced the vacuum hose)

So I drive it home again, and it's struggling to get up to 45 MPH. If I step on it to downshift and higher RPM, it struggles even more.

It's seems to be running hot, as I see the OBD2 gauge showing 201°F when it has typically been about 186°F.

Here's my point:
Would just this vacuum hose missing from the EGR-Modulator cause this much of an issue or does it appear there's something more sinister going on? It all seemed to happen at once.
Struggle at high RPM
Running hot
Happened suddenly

I have had an EGR code for years, which I'm sure is due to intake manifold hard lines and ports being plugged.

I'm asking (instead of doing) because I have medical stuff today, and I will be traveling for work all next week. Trying to get a collective mind to give me ideas for what I need to do.
Yes, first thing will be to install the vacuum hose. However, there is an enormous amount of exhaust gases blowing out of the port of the EGR to the modulator and I'm concerned that is why I no longer have a hose there. It literally blew it off.

Could my cats have suddenly plugged due to running high RPM and WOT? My exhaust is the Magnaflow downpipe with Magnaflow secondary cat and Borla? muffler.

 

[RJsFZJ]

Sounds like clogged cats to me. And probably a bad EGR valve and modulator too as there shouldn’t be exhaust gas coming out of the vacuum ports on the modulator or egr valve.

 

[BILT4ME]

Well, I measured the temps on my cats (or at least attempted to) and found that they are 525°F in the center of the cat on both of them, and the discharge exhaust is about 325°F.
Part of this difficulty, I learned that my IR gun only goes to 525°F. On the front and behind both cats, it was over this limit.

So, I'm pretty much resigned to thinking my cats are clogged and I need to just replace them.

Well, my muffler has a cracked weld on the outlet of it as well. By the time I get done screwing with this, I will replace it all again. Problem is, I don't get time to "plan" this time. I need to travel for work on Monday early AM, so I need to get after it.
That said, I COULD order parts and have them arrive while I'm gone, then install them next week. I'll just need to Uber to the airport, as this time I must fly, not drive.

Unfortunately, my son no longer works at O'Reilly's, so discounts are gone.
Fortunately, I bought another one of the front downpipe and cat back in 2019, so I have one in storage., but I still need the second one.

Bosal 228-241 muffler is currently unavailable, but BRExhaust (A division of Magnaflow) are in stock at O'Reilly's, Advance, and Summit.
I am very fortunate that I live in Olathe, KS and that there is a major Toyota Warehouse Hub right here in the KC area. I can order parts in the morning on Saturday, and they'll be here by midafternoon. Olathe Toyota does a great job slinging parts for our local group. Thee are enough LC's in this area, they stock many parts in store.
(I looked at 2 NEW LC's a couple days ago.....)

So, from previously:
Jan 2019:
I am working on the list to gather for my truck, as my factory OEM muffler finally blew out.....

Magnaflow 23120 (Y-Pipe and 1st Cat) (O'Reilly) (My son works there so I get a great price)
Magnaflow 23622 (Second Cat) (O'Reilly) (My son works there so I get a great price)
Bosal 228-241 (Muffler) (Summit Racing) ($128.99 plus tax, free shipping)
OEM Resonator (Or ANSA 29947) (Already old one on truck or RockAuto) (RA is $78.99 plus tax plus shipping)

17567-17010 Cushion Exhaust Pipe $17.90 3 $53.70
90179-06007 Side Bracket Nut $0.98 12 $11.76
90080-43036 Pipe Gasket $9.35 2 $18.70
90080-43033 Muffler & Pipe Gasket $13.95 2 $27.90
90917-06043 Gasket Exhaust Pipe $9.46 1 $9.46
18495-76010 Retainer Converter $15.01 1 $15.01
90105-10388 Front Pipe Bolt $1.23 2 $2.46
94180-41000 Nut Lock $1.51 6 $9.06
90080-10204 Bolt Flange $1.11 4 $4.44

90080-17187 Exhaust Pipe Nut $1.51 4 $6.04
90080-12007 Exhaust Manifold Stud $5.82 4 $23.28

Toyota parts listed cover ALL gaskets, hardware, and cushion hangers from the exhaust manifold to the resonator pipe (it does NOT) include any hardware to hang the resonator, as I do not need that at this time.

November 26, 2019:

BILT4ME​

This is what I did on my 96 LC.

I did it in two half-days in my driveway, fit up was excellent. I re-used my factory resonator/tailpipe. The only thing the list below doesn't include are the nuts and the gaskets for the O2 sensors.

I chose to buy the Toyota gaskets based on many statements from other folks n here, even though the wye and the muffler came with gaskets.

I also sprayed two coats of 1000°F clear paint on my wye and muffler and cats to extend it's life in the Kansas winters.

I have had it on for about 3 weeks now, and I had one major concerning rattle that turned out to be a heat shield. I have one more rattle that I need to chase down, but it's not very annoying.

Sound wise, the Bosal is nice and quiet, comparable to factory. It does have a little deep rumble when I back out of the throttle such as when slowing down on the interstate by backing off the throttle, but not in the least bit annoying.

I had one manifold stud that decided to back out when removing, so I installed a new one. I bought ALL hardware necessary, and I'm glad I did. I have a few left over because I chose not to use them, but it was well worth the "insurance policy" of having them on hand.

I was also able to do the removal and install without removing my WKOR sliders!

 

[BILT4ME]

More from November 26, 2019:

 

[BILT4ME]

Stay tuned.

I will update the parts list and prices from this re-do.