looks good Mike if it gets that DEEP U B in DEEP SHEET
y`all B safe over there
y`all B safe over there
BUILD :: Moose - 3rd Gen 1997 4Runner (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Frey
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
looks good Mike if it gets that DEEP U B in DEEP SHEET
y`all B safe over there
Ha! FO' REAL! Y'all stay safe, too! I'm sure we'll lose power, it's just a matter of when.
- Thread starter
- #44
Is your 4Runner Auto or Manual? Is the second one transmission or transfer?
- Thread starter
- #46
Fixed Door Handle
A couple weeks ago, my font passenger side exterior door handle stopped working. I've haven't had the time off to fix until this weekend. Being the novice that I am, I was pretty nervous removing the interior side panel from my door. However, it came off pretty easy and the problem was easy to fix. the metal bar that the handle pulls to open the door simply came dislodged from the backside of the handle and it popped back into place real easy. Here are two pics...
Here's what the door looks like with the panel off...
This is the functioning backside of the exterior handle...
A couple weeks ago, my font passenger side exterior door handle stopped working. I've haven't had the time off to fix until this weekend. Being the novice that I am, I was pretty nervous removing the interior side panel from my door. However, it came off pretty easy and the problem was easy to fix. the metal bar that the handle pulls to open the door simply came dislodged from the backside of the handle and it popped back into place real easy. Here are two pics...
Here's what the door looks like with the panel off...
This is the functioning backside of the exterior handle...
- Thread starter
- #47
Question: Brakes
So, another thing I wanted to do this weekend is to replace my front brake pads and I was also assuming that I would be replacing the rotors. I had to pick up a new floor jack and jack stands, because my old ones weren't quite big enough. The GVWR for the '97 4Runner is around 5250 lbs., so I picked up a 4 ton jack and 6 ton stands. I went overboard for two reasons... Better to overcompensate than go too low and I needed the height of the larger jack stands.
Once I got it jacked and on stands, it was a major pain getting the wheels off. I figure it's been awhile. It's the first time I've removed them since buying it. After trying to muscle them off without pulling the 4Runner off it's stands, I was able to knock them off with a few swift kicks.
And I wasn't too happy with what I found. The brake pad that I had eyeballed on the outside driverside was worn as I had seen. Although way more uneven than I could tell with the wheel on. The pad on the backside was pretty thick. The passenger side wheel was similar, but the outside pad was not nearly as worn. Pics below...
So, do I change the pads and rotors (assuming the rotors can't be turned any further) and keep an eye on them? Or am I looking at a bigger problem, such as replacing calipers or something else? Feedback is appreciated, as always!
So, another thing I wanted to do this weekend is to replace my front brake pads and I was also assuming that I would be replacing the rotors. I had to pick up a new floor jack and jack stands, because my old ones weren't quite big enough. The GVWR for the '97 4Runner is around 5250 lbs., so I picked up a 4 ton jack and 6 ton stands. I went overboard for two reasons... Better to overcompensate than go too low and I needed the height of the larger jack stands.
Once I got it jacked and on stands, it was a major pain getting the wheels off. I figure it's been awhile. It's the first time I've removed them since buying it. After trying to muscle them off without pulling the 4Runner off it's stands, I was able to knock them off with a few swift kicks.
And I wasn't too happy with what I found. The brake pad that I had eyeballed on the outside driverside was worn as I had seen. Although way more uneven than I could tell with the wheel on. The pad on the backside was pretty thick. The passenger side wheel was similar, but the outside pad was not nearly as worn. Pics below...
So, do I change the pads and rotors (assuming the rotors can't be turned any further) and keep an eye on them? Or am I looking at a bigger problem, such as replacing calipers or something else? Feedback is appreciated, as always!
Take them down and see if you can easily compress the pistons.
its cheep change calipers& hoses while u there there ya B glad ya did!
I've gotten calipers from Advanced (or pick whatever one you want) and they were like $60. Granted it was only 2 piston calipers for a Pontiac, but as its been said, just replace them. Can't see it costing you more than $150-200 for two front calipers if you just decide to replace both.
- Thread starter
- #52
Back from the dead...
Since I last posted...
Nov 24, 2012 - Odometer 171400 - BRAKES
I replaced my brake pads, rotors and calipers. Got my parts from O'Reilly's and feel like I got some good parts for a good deal. As you guys know, the work wasn't hard and it felt great to get it done.
Feb 17, 2013 - Odometer 173976 - CLUTCH
Replaced my clutch master and slave cylinders. My clutch decided it needed a break and proceeded to lay on the floor of my truck, needing to be pried up off the floor between every shift. Made for a long drive home. I bled all new fluid through the system and then changed the master and slave cylinders. I heard it was best to change both at the same time. The old fluid was black and watery and I blew the line out with a little air when I had everything disassembled. Got it done and driving well now.
Happy driving everyone. I need to get paid up on my dues and I hope to make it to a meeting, camping/wheeling trip sometime soon.
Since I last posted...
Nov 24, 2012 - Odometer 171400 - BRAKES
I replaced my brake pads, rotors and calipers. Got my parts from O'Reilly's and feel like I got some good parts for a good deal. As you guys know, the work wasn't hard and it felt great to get it done.
Feb 17, 2013 - Odometer 173976 - CLUTCH
Replaced my clutch master and slave cylinders. My clutch decided it needed a break and proceeded to lay on the floor of my truck, needing to be pried up off the floor between every shift. Made for a long drive home. I bled all new fluid through the system and then changed the master and slave cylinders. I heard it was best to change both at the same time. The old fluid was black and watery and I blew the line out with a little air when I had everything disassembled. Got it done and driving well now.
Happy driving everyone. I need to get paid up on my dues and I hope to make it to a meeting, camping/wheeling trip sometime soon.
Come to Sicily with us in a couple of weeks
- Thread starter
- #55
Another catch-up post...
May 4, 2013 - Odometer 176350 - HEAD UNIT
In early May I pulled the failing, stock head unit out and replaced it with a modest, double-din Kenwood DPX500BT. Job was easy-cheesy, I ordered the Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness and the hardest part was matching the stock/harness wires with the Kenwood scheme. However, I didn't even realize I had 2 antennas. There is one male plug for each antenna, but the Kenwood only had one input for an antenna. So, I ordered a splitter cable (Metra 40-UV43 Male to Female) and because the plug for the rear antenna is smaller than the front, an adapter plug (Scosche Mda-B Micro/Delco Antenna Adapter Tip). Pulled the stock amp out while I was in there, since I bypassed it with the new unit.
July 10, 2013 - Odometer 177223 - CLUTCH
My clutch had been 'slipping' a bit when shifting into 5th and accelerating and then finally started creeping into 4th and 3rd. So, it was time to replace the clutch. I thought about doing the work myself, but I didn't really have the time or tools for the job. And, I figured if I'm going to pay someone else to do anything to my truck, it might as well be dropping the transmission. On a recommendation from a friend that I usually lean on for mechanic advice, I took the 4Runner to Roc at Airline Auto in Baton Rouge. He's a wealth of information and when I saw he had an almost-brand-new Nissan GT-R on the rack to add turbo (I guess 500hp just isn't enough these days), I figured he could handle replacing the clutch in my performance machine. He allowed to bring in my own parts (Exedy 16087), saving me a couple hundred bucks and turned the truck around real fast. Felt like a new vehicle when it was done and I went from averaging +/-18mpg to +/-19mpg.
August 10, 2013 - Odometer 178659 - EFI RESET
I never did reset my EFI when I got the 4Runner, so I decided after a year of driving it to go ahead and do it. I'm considering giving it the ol' Seafoam treatment and swapping my fuel filter soon.
I also finally swapped my dirty carpet floor mats for some rubber all-weather style mats from Sam's for $20.
Things on the shortlist to get done soon are:
One of these days, I'll get to the fun stuff. I want to change both bumpers, add a small lift and move up a tire size. I'm also considering swapping my dash to LEDs and adding some LED exterior lights. I'm trying to have the patience... Rear bumper might be the first major mod, as I don't even have a stock tow hitch.
May 4, 2013 - Odometer 176350 - HEAD UNIT
In early May I pulled the failing, stock head unit out and replaced it with a modest, double-din Kenwood DPX500BT. Job was easy-cheesy, I ordered the Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness and the hardest part was matching the stock/harness wires with the Kenwood scheme. However, I didn't even realize I had 2 antennas. There is one male plug for each antenna, but the Kenwood only had one input for an antenna. So, I ordered a splitter cable (Metra 40-UV43 Male to Female) and because the plug for the rear antenna is smaller than the front, an adapter plug (Scosche Mda-B Micro/Delco Antenna Adapter Tip). Pulled the stock amp out while I was in there, since I bypassed it with the new unit.
July 10, 2013 - Odometer 177223 - CLUTCH
My clutch had been 'slipping' a bit when shifting into 5th and accelerating and then finally started creeping into 4th and 3rd. So, it was time to replace the clutch. I thought about doing the work myself, but I didn't really have the time or tools for the job. And, I figured if I'm going to pay someone else to do anything to my truck, it might as well be dropping the transmission. On a recommendation from a friend that I usually lean on for mechanic advice, I took the 4Runner to Roc at Airline Auto in Baton Rouge. He's a wealth of information and when I saw he had an almost-brand-new Nissan GT-R on the rack to add turbo (I guess 500hp just isn't enough these days), I figured he could handle replacing the clutch in my performance machine. He allowed to bring in my own parts (Exedy 16087), saving me a couple hundred bucks and turned the truck around real fast. Felt like a new vehicle when it was done and I went from averaging +/-18mpg to +/-19mpg.
August 10, 2013 - Odometer 178659 - EFI RESET
I never did reset my EFI when I got the 4Runner, so I decided after a year of driving it to go ahead and do it. I'm considering giving it the ol' Seafoam treatment and swapping my fuel filter soon.
I also finally swapped my dirty carpet floor mats for some rubber all-weather style mats from Sam's for $20.
Things on the shortlist to get done soon are:
- Steering Rack Bushings
- Frame Rust Maintenance
- Lower Ball Joints+Tie Rod Ends
- Fuel Filter
One of these days, I'll get to the fun stuff. I want to change both bumpers, add a small lift and move up a tire size. I'm also considering swapping my dash to LEDs and adding some LED exterior lights. I'm trying to have the patience... Rear bumper might be the first major mod, as I don't even have a stock tow hitch.
- Thread starter
- #56
Haven't done much to the ol' Moose since my last (long ago) post. One major service in March and then today...
March 29, 2014 - Odometer 186166 - Clutch Pedal Bushing, Clutch Master and Slave (Release) Cylinders
This is the second time I replaced my clutch master/slave cylinders. The first time was 2/17/13, only 13 months and 12k miles earlier. I did that work myself and didn't have the time to do it on this round. Also, I thought maybe that some small error or something I overlooked may have caused them to go bad again so quickly.
So, I took it in to the shop and they did a quick turnaround on it. While it was there, the mechanic noticed that my clutch pedal bushing was totally gone and the pedal and compression spring were rubbing metal on metal, causing a great deal of wear, so he put in a new bushing, too. The pedal felt much better, but still didn’t return all the way to its top position most of the time. I would shift gears, the pedal would return 70% of the way and then I would flick the pedal back to the top with my foot, when necessary. I kept telling myself I would call the shop and bring it back over there, but I never did.
Which leads me to this past week…
May 17, 2014 - Odometer 188051 - More Clutch Pedal Work
This past week, the clutch pedal took a major turn for the worst and it felt like the master and slave cylinders were going out again. I researched it, ordered parts online, and then found a bunch of great threads on T4R.org that led me to this great post on YotaTech about the clutch pedal return spring.
Apparently, many people have this problem and it revolves around the return spring design. There is a horrible, cheap plastic bushing that sits between the spring and pedal. Once the bushing breaks, the two metal parts start to beat each other up and once that is done, there’s no going back to the bushing. It can’t hold up to the extra stress that the two worn out parts put on it and breaks within days. At some point, the metal is so worn that it affects the functionality it was meant for and adds extra wear and tear to the master and slave, or at least it felt like it.
Finally, here are some pics…
As stated in the YotaTech post above, there is a simple, low-cost fix. Take out the compression spring and replace it with a small linear spring found at most hardware stores. The post suggests using a True Value Spring #70 or a Toyota Break Pedal Return Spring. I couldn’t find the #70 and purchased a one that appeared to be similar size and strength, True Value Spring #XXX (I’ll update this with the correct number, as soon as I find it again). You can see this spring in my photos above. The linear spring passes through the space where the compression spring used to be. There are places to mount the new linear spring, as if it were intended as the proper design in the first place.
The best part is that now the pedal works as intended and the clutch engagement feels great, too. So, the master and slave cylinders I ordered online (OEM), hopefully won’t have to be installed anytime soon. The fix was easy, fast and only cost me $5 at the hardware store.
March 29, 2014 - Odometer 186166 - Clutch Pedal Bushing, Clutch Master and Slave (Release) Cylinders
This is the second time I replaced my clutch master/slave cylinders. The first time was 2/17/13, only 13 months and 12k miles earlier. I did that work myself and didn't have the time to do it on this round. Also, I thought maybe that some small error or something I overlooked may have caused them to go bad again so quickly.
So, I took it in to the shop and they did a quick turnaround on it. While it was there, the mechanic noticed that my clutch pedal bushing was totally gone and the pedal and compression spring were rubbing metal on metal, causing a great deal of wear, so he put in a new bushing, too. The pedal felt much better, but still didn’t return all the way to its top position most of the time. I would shift gears, the pedal would return 70% of the way and then I would flick the pedal back to the top with my foot, when necessary. I kept telling myself I would call the shop and bring it back over there, but I never did.
Which leads me to this past week…
May 17, 2014 - Odometer 188051 - More Clutch Pedal Work
This past week, the clutch pedal took a major turn for the worst and it felt like the master and slave cylinders were going out again. I researched it, ordered parts online, and then found a bunch of great threads on T4R.org that led me to this great post on YotaTech about the clutch pedal return spring.
FIXED!! Stupid PLASTIC clutch pedal bushing
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/fixed-stupid-plastic-clutch-pedal-bushing-19137/
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/fixed-stupid-plastic-clutch-pedal-bushing-19137/
Apparently, many people have this problem and it revolves around the return spring design. There is a horrible, cheap plastic bushing that sits between the spring and pedal. Once the bushing breaks, the two metal parts start to beat each other up and once that is done, there’s no going back to the bushing. It can’t hold up to the extra stress that the two worn out parts put on it and breaks within days. At some point, the metal is so worn that it affects the functionality it was meant for and adds extra wear and tear to the master and slave, or at least it felt like it.
Finally, here are some pics…
As stated in the YotaTech post above, there is a simple, low-cost fix. Take out the compression spring and replace it with a small linear spring found at most hardware stores. The post suggests using a True Value Spring #70 or a Toyota Break Pedal Return Spring. I couldn’t find the #70 and purchased a one that appeared to be similar size and strength, True Value Spring #XXX (I’ll update this with the correct number, as soon as I find it again). You can see this spring in my photos above. The linear spring passes through the space where the compression spring used to be. There are places to mount the new linear spring, as if it were intended as the proper design in the first place.
The best part is that now the pedal works as intended and the clutch engagement feels great, too. So, the master and slave cylinders I ordered online (OEM), hopefully won’t have to be installed anytime soon. The fix was easy, fast and only cost me $5 at the hardware store.
- Thread starter
- #57
Haven't been driving the '97 T4R too much since getting the '02 T4R from my father-in-law, but I wanted to give it a little love today. I replaced the PCV valve with a Toyota valve and grommet (it had an aftermarket valve in it for who knows how long). That grommet was a PIA to remove. It was hard and brittle. I did my best not to drop little chunks of it in the hole, but had to suck a few chunks out with the shop vac before installing the new one.
Also cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body. MAF didn't appear too dirty, but sprayed it with some MAF cleaner anyway. Throttle body had a little buildup in it, but not enough to gunk it up. Sprayed it with some TB cleaner and scrubbed the funk out.
Took it for a little drive and it may have been placebo effect, but it felt real good!
Then I washed and waxed it. Taking pics of the Runner tomorrow, because I'm listing it for sale. I don't have to sell it and I don't quite know yet what I'll list it for, but I got that '02 4Runner from my father-in-law with less than 100k on it and I can't quite justify keeping both. Plus I need to work on paying off a credit card, so I can start modding the new one.
Here are a few pics...
Old valve and what is left of the grommet.
Here is the Toyota valve (white) and the old one.
Throttle body.
And here is a pic of the '02, which also got a new PCV/grommet today.
Also cleaned the MAF sensor and the throttle body. MAF didn't appear too dirty, but sprayed it with some MAF cleaner anyway. Throttle body had a little buildup in it, but not enough to gunk it up. Sprayed it with some TB cleaner and scrubbed the funk out.
Took it for a little drive and it may have been placebo effect, but it felt real good!
Then I washed and waxed it. Taking pics of the Runner tomorrow, because I'm listing it for sale. I don't have to sell it and I don't quite know yet what I'll list it for, but I got that '02 4Runner from my father-in-law with less than 100k on it and I can't quite justify keeping both. Plus I need to work on paying off a credit card, so I can start modding the new one.
Here are a few pics...
Old valve and what is left of the grommet.
Here is the Toyota valve (white) and the old one.
Throttle body.
And here is a pic of the '02, which also got a new PCV/grommet today.
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Very nice new ride Mike. And GLWS. 
- Thread starter
- #59
Very nice new ride Mike. And GLWS.
Thanks Mike! I'm going to send you some dues this week, I need to get back in the mix. Also going to try to make it to the meeting at BWW. See you soon!
Question: Brakes
So, another thing I wanted to do this weekend is to replace my front brake pads and I was also assuming that I would be replacing the rotors. I had to pick up a new floor jack and jack stands, because my old ones weren't quite big enough. The GVWR for the '97 4Runner is around 5250 lbs., so I picked up a 4 ton jack and 6 ton stands. I went overboard for two reasons... Better to overcompensate than go too low and I needed the height of the larger jack stands.
Once I got it jacked and on stands, it was a major pain getting the wheels off. I figure it's been awhile. It's the first time I've removed them since buying it. After trying to muscle them off without pulling the 4Runner off it's stands, I was able to knock them off with a few swift kicks.
And I wasn't too happy with what I found. The brake pad that I had eyeballed on the outside driverside was worn as I had seen. Although way more uneven than I could tell with the wheel on. The pad on the backside was pretty thick. The passenger side wheel was similar, but the outside pad was not nearly as worn. Pics below...
So, do I change the pads and rotors (assuming the rotors can't be turned any further) and keep an eye on them? Or am I looking at a bigger problem, such as replacing calipers or something else? Feedback is appreciated, as always!
H[/QUOHTE]
Hi, thank you for all your pics and updates...I bought a 97 Runner for my daughter and I know nothing about cars or trucks/suv's...Im enjoying learning a few things. These sites with pics are very helpful! Her passenger door handle stopped working and so did her gas door opener. The door was a little yellow clip/holder I bought at the local Toy dealership. The gas door was luckily only a spring that had come off the inside that released the door to open. I took pics also and will have to load them. I haven't downloaded to computer yet. I'm not too good at all this stuff, but the little stuff is kind of fun, and I actually enjoy it! I really don't like how dirty the hands get from even doing this stuff, but I'm dealing with that too...found some wipes at the auto store that I just keep inside her Runner. Ok just wanted to thank everyone for this site and you, "Frey" for your updates and pics...it really does help!!Fixed Door Handle
A couple weeks ago, my font passenger side exterior door handle stopped working. I've haven't had the time off to fix until this weekend. Being the novice that I am, I was pretty nervous removing the interior side panel from my door. However, it came off pretty easy and the problem was easy to fix. the metal bar that the handle pulls to open the door simply came dislodged from the backside of the handle and it popped back into place real easy. Here are two pics...
Here's what the door looks like with the panel off...
This is the functioning backside of the exterior handle...