HungryMedic
That doesn't look too hard... What could go wrong?
Ohhhh yes please. Ill take 2
BUILD :: Moose - 3rd Gen 1997 4Runner (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Frey
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
From this:
[URL="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7257/7688645974_000100b65a_z.jpg"][/URL]
To this in no time with how quickly you work:
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Ha! We'll see how quickly I lose pace when all the low hanging fruit gets taking care of!
- Thread starter
- #23
Greasin' the Shaft
168,888 miles
Today I replaced the front windshield wipers, still have to find the right replacement for the rear. Also greased the front and rear propeller shafts. There is so much talk online about following the FSM or just use multi-purpose grease or just use moly grease... I did none of the above. I found this Toyota Technical Service Bulletin in Nelsonmd's thread on T4R.org (TSB embedded at bottom). It conflicted with my FSM, but was released in 1999, so I took it as updated info. I used both types of grease as it suggested, the discrepancy came with which zerks to inject with which grease. The TSB made more sense to me, because it stated to inject the same kind of grease into similar joints and the moly into the one that appears to be most different, the double cardan joint. Either way, it's done.
I was hoping that the grease would get rid of this squealing sound I hear when I start rolling, but it did not. I'm thinking maybe wheels/bearings or just 'squeaky old truck syndrome'?
Few items next up on the list:
Toyota Technical Service Bulletin - August 27, 1999
Propeller Shaft Joint Grease
168,888 miles
Today I replaced the front windshield wipers, still have to find the right replacement for the rear. Also greased the front and rear propeller shafts. There is so much talk online about following the FSM or just use multi-purpose grease or just use moly grease... I did none of the above. I found this Toyota Technical Service Bulletin in Nelsonmd's thread on T4R.org (TSB embedded at bottom). It conflicted with my FSM, but was released in 1999, so I took it as updated info. I used both types of grease as it suggested, the discrepancy came with which zerks to inject with which grease. The TSB made more sense to me, because it stated to inject the same kind of grease into similar joints and the moly into the one that appears to be most different, the double cardan joint. Either way, it's done.
I was hoping that the grease would get rid of this squealing sound I hear when I start rolling, but it did not. I'm thinking maybe wheels/bearings or just 'squeaky old truck syndrome'?
Few items next up on the list:
- Fuel filter
- Plasti Dip a few thangs
- Taco Whip Antenna Mod (link). Missing antenna when I bought it.
- Brake Check. Don't know if I'll go Tundra Brake Replacement yet or not.
- Paint or refinish the wheels
Toyota Technical Service Bulletin - August 27, 1999
Propeller Shaft Joint Grease
Nice ride welcome aboard.
The only place I was able to find the rear wiper was the dealer.
There is a lot of confusion online about the different grease types for the shafts. I just followed the owner's manual and used multi purpose for the U joints and moly for the slide yolks and double cardan.
I have also been debating about the Tundra brake upgrade. From what I can tell the biggest problems seems to be the rear brakes not self adjusting. When I first got mine I had a vibration from the front during braking and the pedal seemed to have a lot of travel. I flushed the fluid and bled and adjusted the rear brakes. They weren't being used at all. The adjustment made a big difference. I think I have decided that I am going to go back with the factory setup for the front (maybe A/M rotors) and turn the rear drums, clean everything real good and replace the shoes and hardware. If the rotors warp again then I will do the Tundra upgrade.
There is a lot of confusion online about the different grease types for the shafts. I just followed the owner's manual and used multi purpose for the U joints and moly for the slide yolks and double cardan.
I have also been debating about the Tundra brake upgrade. From what I can tell the biggest problems seems to be the rear brakes not self adjusting. When I first got mine I had a vibration from the front during braking and the pedal seemed to have a lot of travel. I flushed the fluid and bled and adjusted the rear brakes. They weren't being used at all. The adjustment made a big difference. I think I have decided that I am going to go back with the factory setup for the front (maybe A/M rotors) and turn the rear drums, clean everything real good and replace the shoes and hardware. If the rotors warp again then I will do the Tundra upgrade.
- Thread starter
- #26
Thanks! Glad to be here and have something to build on!
Thanks for the tips, John. I was thinking about the dealership for the rear wiper, too. It's not listed in any of the aftermarket blade books I see in parts stores. And I'm thinking the same thing on the brake job. I don't see a need to go Tundra brakes until I lift and get bigger tires. I definitely need to check what I've got sooner than later though. I'm seeing a lot of travel in my brake pedal just as you mentioned.
Where are you going with this build? Built daily driver, trail truck, rock crawler, or a turbo charged mud machine?
- Thread starter
- #28
Right now I'm set on built daily driver. It'll be bringing me 40 miles round trip to work 5 days/wk, which in Baton Rouge can feel like a rough trail from time to time.
- Thread starter
- #29
Blacked Out
I've never been a huge fan of the gold emblems, although I don't think they look horrible on the Anthracite. I've been thinking about blacking them out and one of my friends had some extra Plasti Dip at the house, so I gave it a try today. I only did the Toyota sombrero on the back. I wish it had come out a little smoother. I don't know if that is just the product or user error. Either way, I like it and plan on doing the others.
I've never been a huge fan of the gold emblems, although I don't think they look horrible on the Anthracite. I've been thinking about blacking them out and one of my friends had some extra Plasti Dip at the house, so I gave it a try today. I only did the Toyota sombrero on the back. I wish it had come out a little smoother. I don't know if that is just the product or user error. Either way, I like it and plan on doing the others.
Black emblems for the win! I love black/gray color schemes
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Looks good Mike. I don't know if I have ever seen plasti dip come out really smooth. Maybe try spraying it from a little farther away.
HODGES
SILVER Star
plasti dip is crap in my opinion. it looks like crap, and peels off after a while and you have to peel all of it off and re-spray it. why not just use spray paint?
- Thread starter
- #33
I've heard good and bad about Plasti Dip and understand its not a perm solution, but wanted to try it out for a few reasons... I could peel it off if I don't like it and I can spray it on without removing emblems. I like the black enough to eventually remove and do it right, but this will do for now.
HODGES
SILVER Star
my brother did all his emblems in a flat, textured krylon spray and it looks awesome.
HODGES said:
Except for the fact it's on a Nissan
HungryMedic
That doesn't look too hard... What could go wrong?
la trail teams 10 said:
Yeah, but aren't you zero wheel drive right now???
- Thread starter
- #38
With Hurricane Isaac bearing down on the Gulf Coast, I knocked out my rear diff breather extension. I'm hoping not to drive thru any high waters by necessity, but I'll feel a little better about it if I do.
- Thread starter
- #40
It was my understanding that on 3rd Gen 4Runners coming from the factory there were two breathers extended up into the engine bay... One for the front diff and one for the transmission or transfer. Your comment got me thinking though, so I went outside and checked. Only see one breather. More research will have to be done.
