Budget Suspension
- Thread starter akarilo
- Start date
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I noticed you said you removed the swaybar. I can see how that would help the flex. Is there an easy way to use quick disconnects for the sway bar? If so, what is involved in doing it that way?
toyman317 said:
There are no known QD's sold anymore that I know of. I have heard of several who make thier own. Which seems to be the cheapest way if you have the skills. I forget what items they used in making them.
How tough?
How tough was the installation? I was just looking under my 60 and it appears that there are brackets/loose clamps that "hold" the pack together. Do you pry these off and replace or bend back down (if possible)? How hard was it to get the center pins out?
Thanks!
How tough was the installation? I was just looking under my 60 and it appears that there are brackets/loose clamps that "hold" the pack together. Do you pry these off and replace or bend back down (if possible)? How hard was it to get the center pins out?
Thanks!
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- Thread starter
- #25
Just nix the sways and take it for a spin. You won't miss them.
As for the clamps, I used a torch to heat them then bent them vertical. I drilled through them (close to the top) and ran a bolt through them (like OME). There is a closeup of it on the pics above.
As for the center pins, only one was froze up. I was able to whack the spring with a hammer and pry the leafs and everything broke free. The biggest bitch was getting the leafs on the rear to line back up with the perches during re-assembly. I highly recommend disconnecting the rear drive shaft.
KR
As for the clamps, I used a torch to heat them then bent them vertical. I drilled through them (close to the top) and ran a bolt through them (like OME). There is a closeup of it on the pics above.
As for the center pins, only one was froze up. I was able to whack the spring with a hammer and pry the leafs and everything broke free. The biggest bitch was getting the leafs on the rear to line back up with the perches during re-assembly. I highly recommend disconnecting the rear drive shaft.
KR
Let 's say that I have the pack laying on the floor and a six pack of beer.
1. Pry the clamps open
2. drop the center pin
3. Pry apart
4. Add leaf
5. Insert center pin
6. Pry clamps down or drill and bolt
6. Try luck at lining up pack and truck.
Am I close?
Cheers,
1. Pry the clamps open
2. drop the center pin
3. Pry apart
4. Add leaf
5. Insert center pin
6. Pry clamps down or drill and bolt
6. Try luck at lining up pack and truck.
Am I close?
Cheers,
akarilo said:The tires are TSL Radial 33x12.5
As for the Hoop questions; By giving the shock mounting points further distance between them, you can fit a much longer shock and still have enough compression travel without bottoming the shock. The longer shock enables the axle to travel down further without running out of shock. I was only able to get 22" top/bottom with the old setup fulled drooped. It streched to 30" top/bottom with the new setup and the shock still has another 4" of shaft left. I'm working on some other mod ideas to get max flex from this setup.
Looks great akarilo,
What is the extended and collasped length of the ranchos? Do you have the part #? Are you running same travel length shocks front are rear? Also, where did you find them for that price?
Cheers
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- Thread starter
- #28
Shocks
Front: Rancho RS9012 32.91"/18.94" (13.97 travel)
Rear: Rancho RS9112 26.65"/15.94" (10.71 travel)
Buy 3 get one free til 06/31/06 (any size)
http://www.samsoffroad.com
They happen to be located in Tulsa, OK
Front: Rancho RS9012 32.91"/18.94" (13.97 travel)
Rear: Rancho RS9112 26.65"/15.94" (10.71 travel)
Buy 3 get one free til 06/31/06 (any size)
http://www.samsoffroad.com
They happen to be located in Tulsa, OK
You can get some more flex out of the rear by using a double shackle. I don't know if a second stock Toy shackle is narrower at the top, than the bottom. If it is, you can bolt the two shackles together. Then put a piece of square stock on the lower one to keep them from completely collapsing on one another.
Here is a pic
I wouldn't use this set-up for the front. In the rear it gives alot more droop, but doesnt open on steep hill decents.
Here is a pic
I wouldn't use this set-up for the front. In the rear it gives alot more droop, but doesnt open on steep hill decents.
- Thread starter
- #32
No rubbing. As for hoop placement, high as possible never hurts. It's not rocket science since you'll be low on the frame already. I had to pound the inner fender in some where the upper shock eyelet resides. The shock is mounted verticle but it's not a must. If you look close, one side of the hoop actually attatches to my bump stop extention (1/4" angle iron). If you don't have somthing like this you might have to angle the hoop or modify it. The Ford towers are always an option.
akarilo said:
You will miss the sways if you drive on the street much. I am still driving without mine, but will get tehm in as soon as i fab nup extensions for my end links. (I have 4" lift.)
- I miss the days of doing 60+ on country curvy roads. (Which I could do b/f my lift.)
- Thread starter
- #35
Yes, the stock shocks were maxed all the way. Here is a pic of the stock setup at full flex.
- Thread starter
- #37
Here is my old setup; http//:www.cardomain.com/id/akarilo
I am trying to emulate this setup but a little less extreme. The leaf pack on the runner was from All-Pro Off Road and was a bit flexier than the stock Cruiser version. I am racking my brain on some additional "Budget" mods to improve articulation further.
I am trying to emulate this setup but a little less extreme. The leaf pack on the runner was from All-Pro Off Road and was a bit flexier than the stock Cruiser version. I am racking my brain on some additional "Budget" mods to improve articulation further.
Thanks Akarilo!
Waiting on a set of wheels and tires - seller is out of town, but if that works out I'll be soon to post the similar build up.
For anyone else comfortable with welding (not me... ...yet) there is another set of shock hoops on e-bay that are only $20 and customizable. Do a search for ebay Item number: 8075878742.
EDIT: Starting bid is $19.99...
Waiting on a set of wheels and tires - seller is out of town, but if that works out I'll be soon to post the similar build up.
For anyone else comfortable with welding (not me... ...yet) there is another set of shock hoops on e-bay that are only $20 and customizable. Do a search for ebay Item number: 8075878742.
EDIT: Starting bid is $19.99...
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Thought about shackles?
I am getting ready to drop in the long AAL and was thinking about 1 1/2 over stock shackles - any thoughts on this idea? I am a little confused on sizing shackles front and rear but might do it.
Thanks
I am getting ready to drop in the long AAL and was thinking about 1 1/2 over stock shackles - any thoughts on this idea? I am a little confused on sizing shackles front and rear but might do it.
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #40
Shackles
The AAL lifts equally F/R from where you're at now. If you're currently sagging a little in the rear, I would go with a longer shackle in the rear. If you're level now, get matching sets.
I had a longer set (+2") on my truck before the AAL but nixed them. I Think I will add a set of (+1") Tri Shackles for another 1/2" lift later; F/R.
The AAL lifts equally F/R from where you're at now. If you're currently sagging a little in the rear, I would go with a longer shackle in the rear. If you're level now, get matching sets.
I had a longer set (+2") on my truck before the AAL but nixed them. I Think I will add a set of (+1") Tri Shackles for another 1/2" lift later; F/R.
