Still trying to, but until i do... gonna keep working and playing with him
Budget H diesel turbo buildup
- Thread starter RufusTheDufus
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Still trying to, but until i do... gonna keep working and playing with him
Ron R
Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life
Even with cap screws it looks as if it is going to be very tight.
Why not "taper" the tube for an inch (or two)?. You can go as narrow as the passage in flange. This way the gasflow is also smoother.
Just saw off the corneredges over the distance you want them to taper, bend inward and weld the edges.
Off course you have to take out triangular shaped parts, narrow at the point where the tube will start to bend inward, wider at the edge where it connects to the flange.
Why not "taper" the tube for an inch (or two)?. You can go as narrow as the passage in flange. This way the gasflow is also smoother.
Just saw off the corneredges over the distance you want them to taper, bend inward and weld the edges.
Off course you have to take out triangular shaped parts, narrow at the point where the tube will start to bend inward, wider at the edge where it connects to the flange.
RufusTheDufus
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- #23
I was thinking about looking for some of these SHCS screws online and I got to thinking about corrosion between dissimilar metals. I forget if using stainless bolts into a cast iron head is a bad idea. I seem to remember that being a no-no since corrosion could occur in the head.
I guess the simplified question is: should I stick with regular steel or use stainless if I can find them?
I guess the simplified question is: should I stick with regular steel or use stainless if I can find them?
RufusTheDufus
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- #24
When I traced the tube I used a regular Bic ballpoint pen. It was impossible to get the ball point all the way in there. So the traced line is slightly larger than the tube.
I have the head off the engine still so I set the tube down on it just to eyeball the fit. I think the cap screws will work. I haven't had my eyeball calibrated lately so I might be wrong. I should know tomorrow. The weather should be nice enough that I can roll the Troopy out of the garage and get to work on it.
Don't use stainless for the exhaust bolts. Stick to normal alloy steel cap screws and paint them.
RufusTheDufus
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- #26
I decided to measure the distance between the exhaust studs. (I know I did it at one point in time before I decided on 2 inch tubing.) They are 2.280" apart. This leaves .14" clearance per side if I nail the welding location perfectly. It might not work without modifying the tubing a bit.
Time to go find some specs on the screws to see how large the heads are.
Time to go find some specs on the screws to see how large the heads are.
Is the metric system that hard? Decimal inches do my head in.
Afterall, the head will be metric, so the bolts will be too.
M8 Unbrako cap screws require a 14.25mm counterbore. Approx 13mm diameter.
M10 Unbrako cap screws require a 17.25mm counterbore. Approx 16mm diameter.
Different brands do vary a bit. You can also turn down the heads a little for clearance since this isn't a mission critical application.
Isn't the main reason for using solidworks to check things fit before you make them?
RufusTheDufus
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- #28
It's apparently really good for that but I'm lazy and didn't want to learn how to do an assembly. This little odd piece of steel is the first thing I have ever designed in SolidWorks. I was using SW primarily to generate the output files in a format that the laser cutter could use. I wish I had more time to learn the software.
I'm a CATIA guy, but its a solid modeller all the same, and I find it easier to model everything in part design, assemblies be damned. Professional designers would hate the models I make, but they're more useful for my purposes, and I just activate an deactivate features as need be and save many copies.
So instead of assemblies, everything is a multi-body part?
That method certainly has it's uses, but it makes some things really difficult.
For some things, sure.
In this case, for example, you might make a model of the block and the studs, and then a model of the exhaust flange, and then an assembly to mate the two and ensure they fit.
I, however, would probably just make a sketch or a feature in my part with the block/stud arrangement, then make another feature with the flange arrangement, constrained against the features on my stud/block sketch. Maybe another sketch with the screw head diameter to ensure there is clearance there too. It works for me.
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Yeah! my square tube manifold works awesome, almost 10,000kms on the turbo so far, i didn't use stainless but there ain't no cracks. the tubing was alot thicker. more time to cool down with the head. but flows awesome.
looks pretty f-ing scookum.
looks pretty f-ing scookum.
RufusTheDufus
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- #33
I picked up a couple of M8 cap screws today at the local hardware store. $.97 each for these things and they only had 4 of them. The tubing fits perfectly between the heads. No modifications necessary. I think a weld bead might interfere. I'll snap some photos when I get the holes drilled and the stubs cut.
any gnus?
RufusTheDufus
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- #35
No gnus is good gnus.
I've been away for a bit up at camp for my wife's Bday. Not much time spent on the Cruisers in the past week. I've been practicing with the TIG welder a bit here and there and planning the radiator move to make room for the intercooler.
My next step on the manifold is to make up a jig that I can bolt the flanges to for welding the whole thing up. I don't want to worry about warping while welding it.
I've been away for a bit up at camp for my wife's Bday. Not much time spent on the Cruisers in the past week. I've been practicing with the TIG welder a bit here and there and planning the radiator move to make room for the intercooler.
My next step on the manifold is to make up a jig that I can bolt the flanges to for welding the whole thing up. I don't want to worry about warping while welding it.
RufusTheDufus
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- Thread starter
- #36
Eye candy
Here's a little eye candy. Not much to talk about specific to the turbo.
Pulled the bib off to work on moving the radiator back a couple inches to make room for an intercooler. There's a bunch of rust to deal with as well so I'm going to pull the fenders and attend to the rust prior to getting it all back together.
Here's a view of the flange and the stub pipe on the head. It gives you an idea of what it looks like.
Just the flange.
Practicing on some scrap stainless with the new TIG and mild steel rod. I obviously need a lot more practice. I think a 1/16" ceriated tungsten for the torch will provide better control than the 3/32" tungsten I used for most of these test passes.
Here's what I'm using for an turbo oil return fitting on the oil pan. The big nut gets welded to the pan.
I hope to work on the head template next week when I get back from a trip to Ohio for a family reunion.
Here's a little eye candy. Not much to talk about specific to the turbo.
Pulled the bib off to work on moving the radiator back a couple inches to make room for an intercooler. There's a bunch of rust to deal with as well so I'm going to pull the fenders and attend to the rust prior to getting it all back together.
Here's a view of the flange and the stub pipe on the head. It gives you an idea of what it looks like.
Just the flange.
Practicing on some scrap stainless with the new TIG and mild steel rod. I obviously need a lot more practice. I think a 1/16" ceriated tungsten for the torch will provide better control than the 3/32" tungsten I used for most of these test passes.
Here's what I'm using for an turbo oil return fitting on the oil pan. The big nut gets welded to the pan.
I hope to work on the head template next week when I get back from a trip to Ohio for a family reunion.
RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #37
Finally getting around to putting some time in on the Cruiser projects again. I spent some time tonight looking at fitment issues and started planning the welding sequence.
Tomorrow I plan to tack weld the stubs to the flanges. When that's done I can work on fitting the long log part of the manifold to the stubs. There's too much of a gap on the rounded edges of the 2" tube. I'd like less of a gap prior to welding if possible.
I spent some time working on a welding jig so I could bolt the flanges to it for welding. The idea is to keep the flanges stationary to avoid warping. I gave up on the jig. It's difficult to get 12 holes drilled in the exact correct location. I'm just going to use the old head as a welding jig. That will work just as well or possibly better.
Tomorrow I plan to tack weld the stubs to the flanges. When that's done I can work on fitting the long log part of the manifold to the stubs. There's too much of a gap on the rounded edges of the 2" tube. I'd like less of a gap prior to welding if possible.
I spent some time working on a welding jig so I could bolt the flanges to it for welding. The idea is to keep the flanges stationary to avoid warping. I gave up on the jig. It's difficult to get 12 holes drilled in the exact correct location. I'm just going to use the old head as a welding jig. That will work just as well or possibly better.
RufusTheDufus
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- Thread starter
- #38
I forgot to mention that Iron Giant had some Remflex gaskets made for the Toyota H diesel head. These will help alleviate any leaks due to warping. They are about 3x thicker than the stock exhaust gaskets.
RufusTheDufus
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- #39
A little progress today.
It's moving along nicely. I wish I was better with the TIG welder. It's a little ugly but the welds have good penetration.
I had to cut an angle at the ends of the log to provide clearance at the firewall and alternator.
I still have a couple more hours of welding left before I fit the turbo mounting flange. Unfortunately my argon tank only has about 30 minutes left in it.
It's moving along nicely. I wish I was better with the TIG welder. It's a little ugly but the welds have good penetration.
I had to cut an angle at the ends of the log to provide clearance at the firewall and alternator.
I still have a couple more hours of welding left before I fit the turbo mounting flange. Unfortunately my argon tank only has about 30 minutes left in it.
RufusTheDufus
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- Thread starter
- #40
Sizing up the turbo
Some more progress today. I haven't finished the manifold yet. Ran out of argon in the bottle and still waiting on some flat 316L to cap the ends of the log.
With all the heat and welds on the stub side of the manifold I've developed about .125" of warp in the center of the manifold. I did 90% of the welding with the manifold bolted tightly to the head and the other 10% with it bolted to some 1/2" plate steel. And it still warped. I guess that's to be expected over two feet of tubing. I took it to my friend with the fabrication shop today and he said we can preheat it in his furnace and throw it on the press while it's hot to take the bend out of it.
I have plenty of room for the turbo and exhaust. I'm going to run the compressor output under the alternator to the intercooler up front. It looks like routing the intercooler plumbing should be fairly straightforward.
I hope to get my argon bottle refilled by the end of the week so I can hopefully finish the manifold and start working on getting this thing running again.
And the part number of the $150 Chinese T3 clone:
Some more progress today. I haven't finished the manifold yet. Ran out of argon in the bottle and still waiting on some flat 316L to cap the ends of the log.
With all the heat and welds on the stub side of the manifold I've developed about .125" of warp in the center of the manifold. I did 90% of the welding with the manifold bolted tightly to the head and the other 10% with it bolted to some 1/2" plate steel. And it still warped. I guess that's to be expected over two feet of tubing. I took it to my friend with the fabrication shop today and he said we can preheat it in his furnace and throw it on the press while it's hot to take the bend out of it.
I have plenty of room for the turbo and exhaust. I'm going to run the compressor output under the alternator to the intercooler up front. It looks like routing the intercooler plumbing should be fairly straightforward.
I hope to get my argon bottle refilled by the end of the week so I can hopefully finish the manifold and start working on getting this thing running again.
And the part number of the $150 Chinese T3 clone:
