Budget H diesel turbo buildup

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The nice thing about the boost controller is that it prevents the wastegate from starting to open too early. Does the threaded actuator rod accomplish the same thing? I adjusted mine a bit to shorten the rod but I felt like I was putting a lot of strain on the spring in the diaphragm.

Shortening the wastegate arm does it better.
A boost controller can only interrupt air pressure to the can, the wastegate can still be opened by exhaust pressure. But if you shorten the rod you are increasing the preload on the wastegate which can better hold it closed against exhaust pressure.

IMO the talk about wastegates opening too early is just talk. The wastegate can't open until the actuator lets it, placing a bike pump with pressure gauge on the wastegate air line will show you when it starts to open. Use this for a starting point, then fine tune to suit using your boost gauge when driving. Afterall, it's the driving result that actually matters.

Don't worry about the spring, it's designed to be pushed flat and survive.
 
Dougal, what's your opinion on the quality of the stock Toyota head bolts? I was very meticulous with the torque procedure though I did use an aftermarket head gasket. I'm wondering if I should change the head bolts too while I'm doing the head gasket.
 
Any suggestions on where I can get an OEM head gasket? I've written to Roodogs. $SOR only has them as part of a complete rebuild kit and they are aftermarket.
 
Any suggestions on where I can get an OEM head gasket? I've written to Roodogs. $SOR only has them as part of a complete rebuild kit and they are aftermarket.

They appear to still be available from Toyota... although... something fishy is going on.

EPC sayeth:

GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD
11115‑47012 H..HJ45
11115‑47013 H..HJ45
11115‑47014 H..HJ45

Don't know whats up with all the options. My go-to parts place (toyotapartscenter.net) has the first two part numbers, but not the last one. But what's really odd is the prices:

OEM Catalog
Item Number Core Price Price
1111547012 $0.00 $8.42

GASKET,CYL.HEAD
Add to Cart Contact Us

OEM Catalog
Item Number Core Price Price
1111547013 $0.00 $17.22

GASKET, CYLINDER HEA
Add to Cart Contact Us

Soo, I dunno if this is Toyota trying to deplete their stock, or if the old HG's are just super cheap, or if this is a mistake. :meh:

Any chance a 2H gasket would fit?

I might give 4wheelauto a call, they helped me with my 3B HG. But then, I'm not sure that they deal with too many H's either.....
 
Dougal, what's your opinion on the quality of the stock Toyota head bolts? I was very meticulous with the torque procedure though I did use an aftermarket head gasket. I'm wondering if I should change the head bolts too while I'm doing the head gasket.

Sorry I have no experience working on a 2H toyota. But was the aftermarket gasket a composite or multi-layer-steel (MLS)?
 
Sorry I have no experience working on a 2H toyota. But was the aftermarket gasket a composite or multi-layer-steel (MLS)?

BTW, this is an H diesel, not the 2H.

Here's the gasket I used. Is that an MLS or composite?
toyota-h-diesel-new-pistons.jpg


I suspect that the leak is along the right side of the cylinders. There's a coolant passage very close to the edge of the cylinder bore.
 
Last edited:
BTW, this is an H diesel, not the 2H.

Here's the gasket I used. Is that an MLS or composite?
toyota-h-diesel-new-pistons.jpg


I suspect that the leak is along the right side of the cylinders. There's a coolant passage very close to the edge of the cylinder bore.

Composite. MLS won't have the silicone seals around the water passages.

(Is it "composite" or "composition"? - I've seen both.)
 
But what's really odd is the prices:

I ordered one of each to see what the differences are.

I have recently learned that there are two different OEM head gaskets for the H series. There's a difference in the size and shape of one of the holes.

h-head-gaskets.jpg
 
Hope I'm not chiming in too late or without seeing the post, but deffinitely use new head bolts. Always upgrade if possible like ARP Head Studs. much stronger and generally reusable especially under boost if you happen to (dare I say) pop a head gasket.

Does anyone o-ring the heads when turboing the H's? used to do that on gassers with high boost all the time to keep from changing stock head gaskests all the time...

nice thread! Hope my motor never goes south otherwise I will be doing something similar-
 
Hope I'm not chiming in too late or without seeing the post, but deffinitely use new head bolts. Always upgrade if possible like ARP Head Studs. much stronger and generally reusable especially under boost if you happen to (dare I say) pop a head gasket.

I disagree, no need to use new bolts if the old ones are in good shape. These are not stretch bolts.
 
They appear to still be available from Toyota... although... something fishy is going on.
....
Soo, I dunno if this is Toyota trying to deplete their stock, or if the old HG's are just super cheap, or if this is a mistake. :meh:

I ordered one of each they claimed to have in stock. Late today I got an email stating that neither item is availble.
 
Hello Rufus,

How is it going everything?

I'm waiting to hear that baby running again, many friends with H engine on their HJ45 ask me almost every week for your improvements. Even when it is a very rare engine, here you can find one on every neighborhood, and I'm making famous your project all over the place.

Hope to have you back on road soon.

Regards,

Thirteen
 
I did learn that I can have custom MLS gaskets made. That's the route I'm going. I just need to get my lazy ass in gear and get to work on the thing. I've been busy with work stuff and just haven't had much motivation to work on the Cruiser projects. I'm going to Costa Rica for 10 days next month. I bet that will provide the relaxation and motivation I need to tinker on the Troopy again.
 
Hope I'm not chiming in too late or without seeing the post, but deffinitely use new head bolts. Always upgrade if possible like ARP Head Studs. much stronger and generally reusable especially under boost if you happen to (dare I say) pop a head gasket.

Does anyone o-ring the heads when turboing the H's? used to do that on gassers with high boost all the time to keep from changing stock head gaskests all the time...

nice thread! Hope my motor never goes south otherwise I will be doing something similar-



I agree on using studs. This is not a stock application and although the toyota Head bolts are of great quality the were not designed to handle the boost.
Another suggestion: since you're having the head gaskets made ask them to give you a thicker gasket, maybe 2 or 3x as OEM thickness. the purpose is to reduce your compression ratio so you can run that kind of boost pressure you spoke about. 10 psi is rather high.
Yet another suggestion: In the aircraft industry we call it turbo normalization. and it is essentially setting the turbo to give 1 ATM of boost at any altitude. So if you're down in Miami the turbo would not be generating boost but if you're in La Sal Mountains your turbo would be compensating for for the lack of pressure by boosting to 1 ATM ... This is rather harmless and you can still use your stock head bolts.
either way remember these trucks were not intended for hwy use; we make them work under these conditions.

I became interested on this thread just this week. Beautiful, I love what you did on the engine. I bought a 1980 left hand drive, HJ45 pick up truck and just got the H engine running. Now the wife is asking me about slapping a turbo on this baby.
Hey, may be you or somebody else knows, Does anybody know of a NAPA # for the oil and fuel filters??
 
I just sold 10 oil filters for the H engine to another Mud member. They are really hard to find. I don't know of a Napa cross.

I modified my oil filter mount to accept a PH8A style cartridge filter instead of the stock canister type. (I did it primarily to add an oil cooler to the engine.)

I do need to find some ARP head studs still and get the gaskets made. I'd be worried about starting problems if I lowered the compression ratio too much. Dougal has indicated that these IDI diesels need high compression for starting purposes. I thinker head gasket might not be a bad idea though. I should do some math on it.
 
I just sold 10 oil filters for the H engine to another Mud member. They are really hard to find. I don't know of a Napa cross.

I modified my oil filter mount to accept a PH8A style cartridge filter instead of the stock canister type. (I did it primarily to add an oil cooler to the engine.)

I do need to find some ARP head studs still and get the gaskets made. I'd be worried about starting problems if I lowered the compression ratio too much. Dougal has indicated that these IDI diesels need high compression for starting purposes. I thinker head gasket might not be a bad idea though. I should do some math on it.

you should not drop the compression down that much, I would think up to point. I think the H engine does 21:1 so if you're down to 20:1 and boost you should not have problems. Do keep your glow plugs in GOOD working order and may be install a heater under the throttle body. remember I'm only suggesting you'll have to work out a temperature difference when compressing to this new, lower number... Ideal gas law here we go.

thanks...
 

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