Bud built hidden winch try on gx470 (1 Viewer)

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I'm just going to stick with the polyurethane spacers I think they'll be plenty strong. I'm hoping to have the entire install done tonight but with a newborn at home it'll be interesting.
 
Much much progress tonight! I went to a great hardware store and got all the Grade 8 stuff i needed. I had to drill the front 2 winch bolt holes all the way through the metal bumper. It was a little difficult because I didn't have a drill bit longer enough to go all the way through. I had to guess where the bolt was coming through the bottom. I was pretty close and only had one pilot hole on each side. At the end of the install I will try and make a list of all the hardware needed for the install.

Overall Im very excited with how it is all coming together!!!! The last tricky part will be drilling/dremeling out the front bumper.
Pics coming soon.
 
I keep trying to load pics but getting error messages. I will try again tomorrow.
I mounted my control box so you can access it through the passenger grill. That seemed to be the best spot due to space available. There is a ton of empty space behind the bumper so I couldn't justify putting it in the engine bay plus I have easy access, no relocation kits or extra wires!!
 
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I will be done tomorrow!! I only get about 1-2hrs a day to work on it and I'm very meticulous. Doing these things takes time to just think and think some more.
I have to get some longer bolts or I could have finished tonight.
 
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This is a picture of the U bolts that go up under the bumper thing to hold the winch plate down. I'm not sure if I even need these since I had to drill through the bumper to hold the front two bolts of the winch down. I will call Bud on Monday and see what he thinks?
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The above picture is an upside down view of where my clutch lever is.
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Other than the U bolts making a outpouching on the plastic bumper I am very happy with how everything turned out. The hardest part was getting my plastic bumper back on and lining up all the fasteners. Partly due to those bolts that are poking through the plastic made the alignment difficult. But I have easy access To my control box and the clutch is easily accessed. Those are two things that were very important to me. Everything works and I'm very very happy with it. If you don't mind doing a little bit of work yourself I think it's a great idea
 
Very nice work @wingysataday! On those u-bolts, could you not simply trim off some of the excess threaded end and use a shorter nut to alleviate the problem?
 
I grinded the bolts flush to the nut. Any thinner nut would make it pretty weak. I don't think on the fourth GEN forerunner that they have to drill the two front winch mount points through that frame part. So I was thinking that I might not even need the U bolts at all
 
I grinded the bolts flush to the nut. Any thinner nut would make it pretty weak. I don't think on the fourth GEN forerunner that they have to drill the two front winch mount points through that frame part. So I was thinking that I might not even need the U bolts at all

Famous last words :flush:
 
Three questions... I am going to do something like this, that why I ask...
  1. How much weight do you think you added to the front end? 80-100 LBS?
  2. How much did the winch drop your suspension?
  3. Did this change your braking experience?
 
1. winch weight: 46.0 lbs (20.9 k), Bud built hidden winch 25lbs.
2. It might have dropped 1/4in but I did not measure. The Ironman setup I purchased is rated for an extra 100lb.
3. did not effect brakes at all!
Overall I am very satisfied how it all turned out. I wish I has some shackle mounts.
 
Is that with the cable? My winch is like 84lbs...
 
its synthetic cable.
Nice job on the install. Couple things I'd like to point out and suggest that may save you some headache down the road:
  • The control box for the winch looks like it will be exposed to the elements probably more than originally designed since it is mounted low. Even though it would be a pain to mount it under the hood where space is at a premium, it will keep it better protected from impact or the elements.
  • I know you are planning to run synthetic cable, so this is not as much as an issue, but in my younger days of wheeling and winching I always had the hood open to protect the windshield from any flying accessories and cable if something should fail.
  • If you mount the control box under the hood, you can run shorter lengths of cable which we all know, shorter is better, at least for an electrical run.
  • Consider interior winch controls - very easy to run. I previously used a dual momentary switch (something like an old 4Runner rear window switch). You could also make a pretty simple control box that you could plug in to a receptacle on the dash and only have it out when you're were in an off-pavement or winching situation. If you do decide to have in-cab controls, consider putting in a disconnect for the winch just off the battery, like one of those that require the removable red key. That way curious valet parking attendants won't be able to mess with your winch.
Overall, fantastic install. Very thorough and clean.
 
The control box is fairly protected and should be waterproof and that's with the winch is rated and most people mount the control box on top of the winch. I didn't have to make any new cables or anything I just used everything that came with the winch. There was no splicing of wires or anything at all it all fit perfectly that's what was nice about the set up that I have.
I have thought about putting which controls inside and I may or may not do that I'm not sure. They make wireless remotes now which is the route I would take
 
Just saw this thread for the first time. Very clean looking install!

One question (and I'm asking, not claiming I know), but under anything other than a straight-on pull, isn't there a chance there will be enough force (leverage) on the fairlead to bend or shear off the bolts/spacers? We are talking about a tremendous amount of side load when trying to extract a 5,000+ lb vehicle.......

Again, just asking.
 

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