Builds Brunt Force Trauma's fj80 thread.

[PKP80]

Since i havent hit the trails since the most recent bob, and I didn't want to shred my tires first time out, I tried to rig up a flex test in the driveway to see if/where I would rub. Worked pretty well. Got a bit more trimming to do.

Find someone with a forklift or get 2 jacks with good travel under each tire and max out the suspension (tire off the ground fully stuffed). When I did that I learned that the rear axles like to travel forwards and back toward the upper limit of flex, which will in turn show you the real amount of metal you will need to trim. I had to learn this after I ran the Rubicon rubbing my inner frame, and fender wall to a serious shine (solution was 1.25" spaces and the cutting wheel).

 

[BruntForce77]

Find someone with a forklift or get 2 jacks with good travel under each tire and max out the suspension (tire off the ground fully stuffed). When I did that I learned that the rear axles like to travel forwards and back toward the upper limit of flex, which will in turn show you the real amount of metal you will need to trim. I had to learn this after I ran the Rubicon rubbing my inner frame, and fender wall to a serious shine (solution was 1.25" spaces and the cutting wheel).

Yeah, i know i still have a few inches to get it fully stuffed. Anyone got a forklift? Im hoping ill be good on the frame and wheel well since I've moved the well inward, and I was ok there before. ALthough i am at a slightly different lift height now in the rear. Hoping the 2" spacers will take care of any changes in that dept.

I'm going to be extending the LCA's. So all the rubbing should be on the back of the well, hopefully. I am probably moving the tail lights to the tailgate anyway, so ill have plenty of metal to remove in the rear if necessary.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Looks like slightly shorter LCA's would center that tire on the wheel well a little bit better....you have spare room for stuff at the front of the rear wheel...

 

[BruntForce77]

Looks like slightly shorter LCA's would center that tire on the wheel well a little bit better....you have spare room for stuff at the front of the rear wheel...

Yeah, but like Sammi said, once the tire stuffs a bit more it starts to move into the door. So I want to keep the small amount of clearance I have there, since there isn't much to trim on that side. I'd rather move the axle back a bit and keep all the trimming to the rear. Ill comp cut it if I have to.

 

[donutfj80]

Ill comp cut it if I have to.

That's what I said at first...

 

[Walking Eagle]

Yeah, i know i still have a few inches to get it fully stuffed. Anyone got a forklift? Im hoping ill be good on the frame and wheel well since I've moved the well inward, and I was ok there before. ALthough i am at a slightly different lift height now in the rear. Hoping the 2" spacers will take care of any changes in that dept.

The top tends to tip in toward the wheel well as the other side drops and the axle angle gets more extreme too. Easiest way I found, since I also don't have a forklift, is jack it up, pull one spring (was real easy on mine cause I had really long shocks), let truck back down onto the bumpstop, strap the axle to keep it on the bump stop, then jack it back up (hi-lift in the reciever works good, not sure what you've got left back there) and the other side will extend. I could get enough height out of my hi-lift to get one wheel off the ground and the other completely stuffed in this maner. If you don't have enough lift, say you only have a floor jack, you can take the oposing side's tire off and let the axle drop and raise the straped side with the floor jack.

It sounds more time consuming and labor intensive than it really is (o.k. so a forklift is easier), but it's better than thinking you're fine and then having your bumper cut your new 37's first time out cause you didn't check it with the other side completely extended. Luckily, I was running cheap 37's.

 

[BruntForce77]

The top tends to tip in toward the wheel well as the other side drops and the axle angle gets more extreme too. Easiest way I found, since I also don't have a forklift, is jack it up, pull one spring (was real easy on mine cause I had really long shocks), let truck back down onto the bumpstop, strap the axle to keep it on the bump stop, then jack it back up (hi-lift in the reciever works good, not sure what you've got left back there) and the other side will extend. I could get enough height out of my hi-lift to get one wheel off the ground and the other completely stuffed in this maner. If you don't have enough lift, say you only have a floor jack, you can take the oposing side's tire off and let the axle drop and raise the straped side with the floor jack.

It sounds more time consuming and labor intensive than it really is (o.k. so a forklift is easier), but it's better than thinking you're fine and then having your bumper cut your new 37's first time out cause you didn't check it with the other side completely extended. Luckily, I was running cheap 37's.

Labor intensive doesnt scare me if it will give me the peace of mind to hit the trail knowing I won't be slicing rubber. Thanks for the tip!


Cheap 37's? Isn't that an oxymoron?

 

[PKP80]

I had a similar situation...didn't flex and trim at full tuck and chunked part of my tire on my first run out.

 

[Walking Eagle]

Cheap 37's? Isn't that an oxymoron?

Military hummer tires

 

[BruntForce77]

Factory alarm deleted:

 

[BruntForce77]

Gutted and applied a few coats of Chassis Saver to the whole interior, including the ceiling. Going to be applying Monstaliner next.

 

[calfj60]

Looks super clean.... What color monstraliner

 

[BruntForce77]

Looks super clean.... What color monstraliner

Black.

 

[BruntForce77]

3 coats

[/URL]

 

[cruiser_hopeful]

Did you roll it on or spray it?

 

[Wrench]

Black.

Looks grey to me but just could be the lighting.

 

[PKP80]

VERY Clean...good work

 

[BruntForce77]

Did you roll it on or spray it?

Rolled it.

Looks grey to me but just could be the lighting.

It's definitely black. The chassis saver is grey/silver. You looking at the correct picture?

VERY Clean...good work

Thanks man.

 

[PKP80]

At this point you should just drill some holes in the rear, ditch the springs, and shocks and coil it over.

 

[BruntForce77]

At this point you should just drill some holes in the rear, ditch the springs, and shocks and coil it over.

Oh man, i wish. One day I'd like to have coil overs all around. But it's not in the budget right now. I am saving for a axle rebuild, and possible longs if the OEM birfs are questionable once I get in there... But lately ive actually been contemplating skipping the middleman and going straight to tons, since I have a lead on a pair of CUCV's. I don't NEED tons, but that's beside the point.