Broken rear engine mount bolt. How screwed am I?

[jvincig01]

Hey Dudes, just closing the loop on this. I got the bolt out! It was actually extremely easy. Once I removed the motor mount, I was relieved to see some meat on the broken bolt. I thought I would have a fighting chance if I was able to lock down vice grips on it. However, it was too close to do that just yet. So I checked to see if the bolt would move with my finger tips. Turns out it did! I was able to back it out enough to put some pliers and remove it. What a relief! Thanks for all your help.

I ended up putting these 12.9's on as they were darn close to the exact same size. They are allen head but they were not difficult to put on. All is good!

 

[73FJ40]

Thanks for the update. What factors had you decide on the socket heads in lieu of hex head? Strength, availability, head size?

 

[jvincig01]

Thanks for the update. What factors had you decide on the socket heads in lieu of hex head? Strength, availability, head size?

It was a combo of two things. I had a set of grade 10.9's/30mm in hex head . However, They only went into the bell housing about 3/4 of the way through. I just didnt like that much extra space. I also had some allen heads that were 12.9/35mm. When I put them in, they went all the way through the bell housing. Ideally I would have used the hex but the allens were good as well. Maybe I will swap them out some day but for now they should be fine. Unless, of course, using allens is a horrible idea?

 

[73FJ40]

I'd say the socket heads will function fine, since for either socket or hex head, since in either case, the washer is bearing on the mounting flange.

Standardization is normally a good thing for maintenance, particularly on the trail, but I can't imagine you'd ever have to touch these ever again.