Broken loom wire, how to fix (1 Viewer)

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Jan 6, 2006
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13
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Location
Essex, UK
I think I finally found the cause of my won't turn off problem. There's no continuity in the 'red' wire from the loom to relay plug in the driver footwell (RHD) to the EDIC motor loom plug in the engine bay. This is the 'stop' wire. Question is how do I fix it? From what I can see the connectors look OK at each end. I could run a new wire through but the loom plugs still need to be plugged in. Scratching my head !!!
 
Which connectors does it have? You should be able to pull the old connectors out, run your wire, put new connectors on each end of the wire, and reinsert the new connectors into their plastic housings.
 
I think @ToyotaMatt can help--see this thread: Wiring help

you can remove each of the terminals from the connector. Source the correct terminals for the new wire and you can run it from your point A to B.

I'm not sure if it is possible to find where the break is in the wire. Conceivably a non contact voltage detector could do this, but the ones I find are specified for AC, not DC, regardless what the title on amazon says. Someone who knows more about these devices might chime in.
 
Which connectors does it have? You should be able to pull the old connectors out, run your wire, put new connectors on each end of the wire, and reinsert the new connectors into their plastic housings.
Thanks Seth, see pics, in the footwell its the one in my hand, and in the engine bay its the female of the one you see ( a very difficult one to get near)

IMG_4306.jpg


IMG_4308 2.jpg
 
All of these connectors can be backed out of their plastic housings. There are tools made for it but I've had good luck with something like a medium sized close pin. There is a small tab on the metal connector that sticks up and catches on the plastic housing...and thats the piece that you need to compress slightly so it can slide out the back.

Then you need a new connector and the proper crimping tool to put it on the new wire and slide it back into the plastic housing. The hardest part is replacing the actual wire in the wire run.
 
Strictly speaking, shrink wrap and properly applied solder is should be a better, safer, more electrically conductive, and longer-lasting connection than anything OEM-style that's just mechanically crimped onto the end of a stranded wire. If you know how to solder to 'pretentious audiophile' standards, you could also skip digging into the plugs and just splice your point-to-point wire into the loom right next to the plug on either end. It'll be ugly, though, which would bother me if my truck wasn't dirty/dented/a patchwork of good-enough fixes by younger, too-poor-to-do-it-right me.
 
OK thanks @Seth S and @2mbb I will try and eject the connectors in the morning and try and source them. I'm in the UK but guess I could still order them from @ToyotaMatt if I can't get them over here ? 2mbb you've reminded me I might have a wire break detector somewhere from telephone work years back.
 
Strictly speaking, shrink wrap and properly applied solder is should be a better, safer, more electrically conductive, and longer-lasting connection than anything OEM-style that's just mechanically crimped onto the end of a stranded wire. If you know how to solder to 'pretentious audiophile' standards, you could also skip digging into the plugs and just splice your point-to-point wire into the loom right next to the plug on either end. It'll be ugly, though, which would bother me if my truck wasn't dirty/dented/a patchwork of good-enough fixes by younger, too-poor-to-do-it-right me.
Ha ha, thanks Felix, see how I go, it might end up ugly but will try for pretty first.
 
FIXED !! @Seth S and @2mbb and others elsewhere thanks for your awesome help with this, after an embarrassing years of living and trying with this problem on and off it was simply a red 'stop' wire break at the loom connector to the EDIC motor in the engine bay. It was almost a non Toyota generic female spade connecter so used what I had in my 12v box of bits. The wire was full of corrosion so had to cut back a few inches. Looking at the pic above the tell tale clue of a tiny bit of corrosion was there, staring at me all the time.

If you have the wont turn off problem, check continuity from footwell to engine bay plug first. I'd mistakenly gone straight for the often recommended relay replacement and then when that didn't fix it then removing the EDIC motor for testing.

But with two lengths of wire you can test the EDIC motor as explained in the factory manual in situ from the loom end of the Fuel Control Relay plug while watching the motor arm movement and the Ohm meter. Benefit of this is it will also test the loom wiring. Be patient, the position for the open circuit reading takes some trial and error to get. On my meter the setting needed to be Ohm's and not Kilo or Mega Ohms. A meter with a needle might be easier to see the short open circuit period, but patience and trial and error will also do it.

I am so happy !!!
 

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