Broke Parking Brake Help - 100 (1 Viewer)

[KlausVanWinkle]

Iw as trying to adjust the cable running to the PS parking brake because it felt loose when the parking brake was pulled and the parking brake barely worked.

As I started to turn the bolt that I thought would tighten the cable, the bolt snapped.

Does anyone know parts I need to fix this? The parts diagram is confusing. 46420 maybe?

That's rust on the parking brake cable bracket and dirt on the axle.

 

[liveoak]

i tried adjusting mine too. it wouldn't budge. sprayed pb blaster on it for a couple weeks and could never get it to move.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Mine moved. Then broke. I'm wondering if it'd be worth it to let the dealer mess with it.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

46420-60011. More than likely it's your bell cranks that are frozen and keeping the cable from releasing.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

46420-60011. More than likely it's your bell cranks that are frozen and keeping the cable from releasing.

What do you mean by releasing? The parking brake was engaging and disengaging. Just the PS didn't seem to be nearly as tight as the DS and wouldn't hold the truck on a hill.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Sounds fine then, never mind. Just thinking that if the adjuster is that corroded then the bell cranks probably aren't far behind because of the dissimilar metals reaction with the pin and lever.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Can I jut clean the bell cranks or do they need to be replaced?

 

[APKhaos]

You'll definitely need new pins, and they are not spendy.
You can remove the cranks, wire brush/grind the rust off, then paint with POR13 or similar, else replace with new.

 

[lhommec13]

It's the pivots that are seizing, and the problem is fairly common especially in cold/snow states. When I bought my 100 used two years ago, both pivots were frozen. I took it to the dealer and they were able to free up the driver's side but the passenger side had to be replaced. Within a year, the driver's side froze up again but I'm not going to bother with it this time. There are worse things one can do than driving without an e-brake on an automatic, IMO. I suppose if I could fix it on my own, I would try. Keep us posted!

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Santa Monica Toyota is ridiculous. They want $400 for a starter, $500 for labor, and $265 to fix the parking brake. Looks like I'm gonna bring some tire chocks on my next trip and hit up Cdan and do it myself.

Also, I think you're right. It is 46420-60011. Might see how much it'd cost to just replace all the parts that corrode.

 

[DomSmith]

Santa Monica Toyota is ridiculous. They want $400 for a starter, $500 for labor, and $265 to fix the parking brake.

I work in SM and refuse to buy anything from the dealer here. Their reviews online are terrible for a reason.

Good luck with your fix.

 

[staggrlee]

It's the 46420 sub-assembly that you need to replace most likely. Mine broke at the adjuster nut too when trying to take up slack in the cable. It has never seen salt and the pivots and bell cranks were working fine. The part was about $100 from a dealer but I'm sure some of the guys on here can get it for less.

I broke it while on the road and was able to fix it and readjust it in camp in about 20min. with just trail tools. Really not that difficult.

 

[MikeK]

Any other follow ups to this? I did the same exact thing (twisted off the bolt til it snapped trying to 'tighten' the nut that would take slack out of the system for a more secure parking brake lever. btw, you THINK the nut is twisting, but its just torquing the bolt.). I think the bell cranks are fine, as the engage and disengage when pulling the cable.

I was thinking about trying to have that bolt/nut assembly welded back together with an additional support welded onto it for heft. An old timer in the neighborhood here who welds for me said he could try it, but I'd need to get it off the car first to take into his shop --- I'm guessing all the other pins, cables, and stuff are so corroded I'll never get it off there; even w/PBblaster. Is there a specific 'kit' containing these cables and things that can be had aftermarket for less? (she resides in Boston MA area)

 

[PabloCruise]

It's the 46420 sub-assembly that you need to replace most likely. Mine broke at the adjuster nut too when trying to take up slack in the cable. It has never seen salt and the pivots and bell cranks were working fine. The part was about $100 from a dealer but I'm sure some of the guys on here can get it for less.

I broke it while on the road and was able to fix it and readjust it in camp in about 20min. with just trail tools. Really not that difficult.

Any other follow ups to this? I did the same exact thing (twisted off the bolt til it snapped trying to 'tighten' the nut that would take slack out of the system for a more secure parking brake lever. btw, you THINK the nut is twisting, but its just torquing the bolt.). I think the bell cranks are fine, as the engage and disengage when pulling the cable.

I was thinking about trying to have that bolt/nut assembly welded back together with an additional support welded onto it for heft. An old timer in the neighborhood here who welds for me said he could try it, but I'd need to get it off the car first to take into his shop --- I'm guessing all the other pins, cables, and stuff are so corroded I'll never get it off there; even w/PBblaster. Is there a specific 'kit' containing these cables and things that can be had aftermarket for less? (she resides in Boston MA area)

Is there a comprehensive thread on adjusting the system? Preferably with some pictures? I checked the FAQ, and surprisingly there is no thread for park brake adjust. Even more surprising is that the system does not self adjust...

It sounds like there is adjustment at the actual drums, then at the 46420 assembly - which is prone to break? I wonder if I pre-treat with some PB Blaster if that will move?

I know a lot of vehicles have a cable adjustment at the hand lever, which makes sense to protect threads. Is there one under the center console?