Broke down (1 Viewer)

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ToyotaMatt said:
- could u better describe the smoke to us ?

- what color was it ?

- how much smoke was there actually ?

- what did it smell like ? ( maybe rotten opinions or like plastic burning alot ?

- u have any tech photos of the breakdown whatsoever to post here > < anything relevant is a clue here

- what noises were observed right up to and leading into the breakdown ?

- what if any different noises were heard at time of the break down ?

- also , this is a important thing to recall as is all of the above too , ..................

- DID u feel any vibrations or feel any unusual bumps or felt knocking right before the break down ?


- these are all the Technical Diagnosis questions per the FSM and such i would be asking myself now 24/7 if i were in your shoes


- none are far fetched and i have experienced most if not all in my land cruisers lifetime

- i would also be consulting this UNICORN FSM , if the vibration or noise factor was at play here ,





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1. smoke coming off of the transfer case area briefly
2. white smoke
3. lasted a few seconds after I shut it off and looked underneath
4. smelt like burning plastic more than anything
5. don't have any additional pics other than the first pic
6. "clanking" during take-off from stop light and would fade away as speed increased
7. the steering wheel did feel a little odd, felt vibrations in it a bit more than usual but nothing drastic

something I was recalling but forgot to mention:
after pulling over the 1st time after hearing some odd sounds I engaged the ebrake, jumped out to look underneath, jumped back in and took off without disengaging the ebrake. A couple miles down the road I remembered and disengaged the ebrake and continued on my way. A few minutes later is when I felt the "lose of power/rig slowed down", burning smell and pulled over immediately. Very foul plastic burning smell, looked underneath and saw white smoke coming off of the tcase. The clanking sounds started before I forgot to disengage the ebrake, so I kinda ruled it out. Did the ebrake not disengage internally perhaps even though the handle was all the way down?
 
neilhernandez92 said:
1. smoke coming off of the transfer case area briefly
2. white smoke
3. lasted a few seconds after I shut it off and looked underneath
4. smelt like burning plastic more than anything
5. don't have any additional pics other than the first pic
6. "clanking" during take-off from stop light and would fade away as speed increased
7. the steering wheel did feel a little odd, felt vibrations in it a bit more than usual but nothing drastic

something I was recalling but forgot to mention:
after pulling over the 1st time after hearing some odd sounds I engaged the ebrake, jumped out to look underneath, jumped back in and took off without disengaging the ebrake. A couple miles down the road I remembered and disengaged the ebrake and continued on my way. A few minutes later is when I felt the "lose of power/rig slowed down", burning smell and pulled over immediately. Very foul plastic burning smell, looked underneath and saw white smoke coming off of the tcase. The clanking sounds started before I forgot to disengage the ebrake, so I kinda ruled it out. Did the ebrake not disengage internally perhaps even though the handle was all the way down?
Click to expand...


many things are possible here to be honest ...........


i like to play the ODDs game :

- you left e-brake on , hence the clutch had to work harder , it was on its way out anyway , so it died under a HARD CORE LOAD scenario ......


the smell foul was the ASBESTIOUS clutch disc final RE-ENTRY BURN in the atmosphere !

hence the white smoke


that's my Theory and im sticking to it


am i 100% correct ?

no way ......... :(

am i on to something OUTSIDE the BOX ? 🤔


i believe i am


time will tell and we will know ,

just take small steps to figure this out the smart way is all


DO NOT engage in any OPEN ENDED approach to sort this out is your best advise here ?


a land cruiser or vintage 4wd specialty or say a old skool Manual Transmission Shop is your best meal ticket here

and how i would personally proceed with caution also .............in every way



keep us updated and good luck too , folks are rooting for you me included here ...........:)


thanks
 
ToyotaMatt said:
many things are possible here to be honest ...........


i like to play the ODDs game :

- you left e-brake on , hence the clutch had to work harder , it was on its way out anyway , so it died under a HARD CORE LOAD scenario ......


the smell foul was the ASBESTIOUS clutch disc final RE-ENTRY BURN in the atmosphere !

hence the white smoke


that's my Theory and im sticking to it


am i 100% correct ?

no way ......... :(

am i on to something OUTSIDE the BOX ? 🤔


i believe i am


time will tell and we will know ,

just take small steps to figure this out the smart way is all


DO NOT engage in any OPEN ENDED approach to sort this out is your best advise here ?


a land cruiser or vintage 4wd specialty or say a old skool Manual Transmission Shop is your best meal ticket here

and how i would personally proceed with caution also .............in every way



keep us updated and good luck too , folks are rooting for you me included here ...........:)


thanks
Click to expand...
Got a hold of a well known LC shop here in Houston, am scheduled to take her in next Wednesday. I will drain the tcase fluid in the meantime this coming Saturday so at least to rule that out or not. Unfortunately I will miss out on the only yearly "beach cruise" this weekend :(
 
well better get a repair done correct then mess it up more



there will be more BEACHES and Cruises in your future im sure ..............:D




9e2292218be3f0fcddfec9fb2f5ca04c.jpg
 
May not matter depending on what the shop finds and whether or not the existing drivetrain elements are compromised, but one thing to do before pulling the trans, tcase and diff drain plugs is to pull the fill plugs first. That way, if you can’t get the fill plug(s) out your not left stranded with empty cases. It is possible to refill the cases via the breathers if they’re functional but that’s at best a very last resort. GL with the hunt.
 
middlecalf said:
May not matter depending on what the shop finds and whether or not the existing drivetrain elements are compromised, but one thing to do before pulling the trans, tcase and diff drain plugs is to pull the fill plugs first. That way, if you can’t get the fill plug(s) out your not left stranded with empty cases. It is possible to refill the cases via the breathers if they’re functional but that’s at best a very last resort. GL with the hunt.
Click to expand...
Definitely THIS^^^
 
Is this 40 still at the shop?!!! Inquiring minds...
 
Dianna said:
Is this 40 still at the shop?!!! Inquiring minds...u
Click to expand...

Dianna said:
Is this 40 still at the shop?!!! Inquiring minds...
Click to expand...
Unfortunately my rig IS still at the shop. It's a Land Cruiser specialty shop here in Houston, so they are very busy. It should be ready this weekend tho, crossing my fingers. The problem turned out to be that they found metal shavings in the transfer case when draining the oil, so a complete rebuild was necessary and got the to look at a couple other things while it's there. Will let ya'll know the outcome shortly!
 
neilhernandez92 said:
Unfortunately my rig IS still at the shop. It's a Land Cruiser specialty shop here in Houston, so they are very busy. It should be ready this weekend tho, crossing my fingers. The problem turned out to be that they found metal shavings in the transfer case when draining the oil, so a complete rebuild was necessary and got the to look at a couple other things while it's there. Will let ya'll know the outcome shortly!
Click to expand...
Put in a new clutch, and have the tranny rebuilt. It's cheap peace of mind.

Check for leaks and the fluid levels frequently.
 
Well, I went to pick up my FJ yesterday afternoon from the shop! I was very excited to get it back after 2 months. So I paid, jumped in and drove off. It felt great driving it again, so much fun! Headed straight to the electrician to get a new wiring harness built and installed, 20 minutes away, I hear some metallic fall off underneath and the clutch starts SQUEALING loudly. I step on the clutch, more squealing, release the clutch pedal, the sound goes away. Call the shop, shop owner says it sounds like the throw-out bearing seized......AAARRRGGGHHHH. So it's back in the shop for a while longer getting that replaced and new clutch installed while it's apart. Wife gave me the"death stare" and said "what now"? Well, at least it'll have a newly rebuilt transfer case, new clutch and throw out bearing!
 
Maybe the TO dislodged off the fork during removal or install. I've had a TO squeal/seize because it was installed backwards after a clutch replacement. 🤷‍♂️
 
onemanarmy said:
OP didn't have any trans or clutch work done prior to the squealing noise

we gotta read folks.
Click to expand...
I did read, just spit balling. thanks

Edited to add: when I resealed my transfer case I did pull my trans and transfer case out together as it was easier to do as a single unit but I did not work on the transmission either, hence the dislodging of my TO off the fork. This lesson was learned from an experience I had.
 
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