Bring a 60 Back to Life

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Engine stand came in.
Split the drivetrain and got it mounted up.
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I would have power washed it already but I need to relocate my silicone plugs for all the misc. openings.
Spent a quite afternoon degreasing the bellhousing. A bit of ospho and it looks pretty good I think. Just need to tape off the mating surfaces and paint it.
Dumb question; for reassembly, is there any need for some thin rtv or is it just metal to metal?

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The flywheel looks to be original and a bit rough. Hopefully there is enough meat left to resurface. Do the flywheel bolts need to be replaced after being used?
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I have some gaskets, but not all. Need to start ordering.
Are there any counterfeit issues when ordering parts via partsouq.com ?

Also, is JimC still in business? Ive emailed him with questions in the past bet never gor a repsonse. I imagine hes busy and flooded with questions. Got a carb and dizzy ready to be sent off.
 
Toyota never used RTV on anything.
Flywheel bolts are cheap and still available. I replaced mine for peace of mind.
 
Bellhousing taped and primed.
Will paint in a few days. I like to let things cure for days given out high humidity.

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What is the intended purpose of this port on the driver side of the block? Oil galley or bleeder for coolant?

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Freeze plug (I think).
The purpose of freeze plugs is that they’ll blow out or start to leak if the coolant in the block freezes and expands — instead of cracking the block.
 
Decided to pull the manifold off.
First thing I noticed is the end of the exhaust swivels. I understand this separation of for thermal expansion and such but this end of the manifold swivels with hardly any resistance. The other end is stationary.
Is this expected or rather a sign the seal and sping inside are toast?
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With the manifold off its clear to see the valve stem seals are toast.

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Got cylinder #1 full of paracord and holding the valves up. Got the sping off and that valve stem seal will not lift off pulling by hand.
I'm hesitant to gently pry up on its edges but I imagine that's that next step....or getting a small bearing pull on it to pull it straight out. What say yall?

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Pull on it, should come right out.
From all that I've read I figured it would have but it would not budge no matter how hard i grasped and pulled. Had to use a pry tool and very gently lift on one side then the other a few times to get it to come up.
It was "pressed" over the tip top of the valve guide.

You can see the "shadow " line on the guide how far it was pressed on.
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Welp...
Got the valve stem seals changed out a few months back. Been busy with work as usual but trying to keep things rolling...

Got the dizzy pulled and boxed up with the carb and sent to JimC a few weeks ago. I hope it landed safely.

I'm going to see about getting my flywheel resurfaced but I'm worried it may be too far gone....

Lots of hot spots and hairline cracks.

I know the PO had the clutch replaced @~185k but the flywheel was not resurfaced at that time. I drove it daily till ~215k. Clutch looked fine when I dropped it.

What y'all think?

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You can only know how far gone it is based on how deep those cracks are. Have it resurfaced and make sure they maintain the step in the flywheel. The shop will tell you if it's too far gone.
 
You can only know how far gone it is based on how deep those cracks are. Have it resurfaced and make sure they maintain the step in the flywheel. The shop will tell you if it's too far gone.
If there is no more step in the flywheel surface I presume it's gone?
There's barely a lip to get caught on a fingernail...
 
I'm pretty sure I see it in the picture. Iirc the friction surface is raised above the clutch pressure plate bolt mounting surface.
 

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