Bring a 60 Back to Life

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Joined
Sep 23, 2007
Threads
6
Messages
126
Location
Deep South Texas
Website
lubedealer.com
I have an 87 60 that has been sitting in "storage" for over 4 years. It's been off the road at least 6 years, but was driven once every few weeks/months.
Last time it ran, it was rough and running a bit warm. Had a spare fuel filter lying around and upon swapping found my fuel was an orange rusty soup. Hasn't been run since.
I plan, one day, to give it a decent resto. Need to source out good 2F mechanics near me and see about overhauling the drivetrain.
I really just want to get the ol Iron B**** running again, in the mean time. I'm tired of it just collecting dust. Can't bring myself to sell it.
What steps should I take in getting it running again?
MarvelMysterey oil down the spark plugs to lube things up?
Change oil.
Change coolant.
Rebuild carb and get rid of the smog mess?
How likely is it my fuel tank is shot? Or can I get by with flushing it and the lines?
I've read there are recalls on the fuel tanks that toyota might give me a new tank. I've had 2 dealerships run my vin, apparently my Cruiser wasn't made for the US market. Mexico? Why wouldn't the recalls be on "foreign" market cruisers?

A lot of questions I know.

Thank yall for the input.
 
I think the recal is a political thing, force toyota to do this must have cost them a fortune on parts and labour.
I have asked toyota netherlands but no way, only america.

Just sell the truck, getting it running: there is a plug in the fuel tank so just remove all old fuel, in its current state it is just scrap I suppose.
 
Get clean fuel to the carb and she'll likely fire up. Maybe pour a few tablespoons directly into the intake. Once you get her started then you can invest in changing out the other fluids.

If your tank is rusty, it will have to be fixed before you can expect her run consistently. This will likely mean changing the tank and possibly the lines. There are lots of used options or upgrade to a long ranger. I've heard about a type of paint that can be used to coat the inside of old tanks to restore them. I don't know how effective they are.

Good luck.
 
I think the recal is a political thing, force toyota to do this must have cost them a fortune on parts and labour.
I have asked toyota netherlands but no way, only america.

Just sell the truck, getting it running: there is a plug in the fuel tank so just remove all old fuel, in its current state it is just scrap I suppose.

Good to know there is a drain plug. Thanks.
I can bring myself to sell it. Passing off as scrap is a bit of a waste. I see other 60s on here with far worse bodies get the resto treatment.

Get clean fuel to the carb and she'll likely fire up. Maybe pour a few tablespoons directly into the intake. Once you get her started then you can invest in changing out the other fluids.

If your tank is rusty, it will have to be fixed before you can expect her run consistently. This will likely mean changing the tank and possibly the lines. There are lots of used options or upgrade to a long ranger. I've heard about a type of paint that can be used to coat the inside of old tanks to restore them. I don't know how effective they are.

Good luck.

Pictures?

None today. It's in storage back home. It's got some rust and a bit of body damage but like I said, I've seen worse get redone.
 
Put a bit of automatic trans fluid down each spark plug, let it sit for a couple of days. Then roll it over by hand if you can or
use the starter to free it up. then drain the oil. Drain the gas tank, plug in bottom, refill. disconnect the fuel line up front somewhere
and drain all the fuel you can. Then refill with fresh fuel. Put spark plugs in. Fire it up. If an engine has oil and isn't seized, it should
run at least. Then you can get to cleaning up all the other fluids etc. If you can, use a rad flush kit. If you like it, then you have a running
rig. Good luck, post some pics for us all.
 
You can flush the tank...search on here for Rad flush with acid, you can use same on fuel tank. I did mine and it worked great. Just be sure to let the tank set on all it's sides for a while, then flush well with water. I did mine in the summer here in Texas so it dried well in the sun, also used a fan to help dry. I did mine 2 times and then lined it with stuff I got on the web. I also used 2 filters before carb, I changed them every 2 weeks for 6 weeks to catch any loose liner. It's been 3 years now and no problems yet...good luck. Sorry can't remember which acid or liner I used but easy to research.
 
Ii appreciate yalls input.
Has anyone got experience with Por15 tank repair? They seem simple enough from what I've read.

Is there a company that makes a shackle reversal kit for 60s?
Who makes the best spring kit to get just enough lift to clear 33s. Still wanna keep a good ride for DD but be able to handle weight of racks and bumpers.
 
Thansk for y'alls input.

Ive been looking at the costs to rebuild a 2F and debating on which route to take. Im farily mechanically inclined and do as much of my own work as I can unless time and proper tools are out of reach.
I feel I can rebuild the engine myself.
By rebuild I mean pull the motor, dismantle, send block, head, crank, ect to a machine shop to check/resurface everything then reassemble myself.

But I keep reading users on this site, and other search results, caution away from taking this on yourself unless you "know 2F/Toyota engines well."

What little "Toyota specific" tricks and steps must one take to properly rebuild a 2F?
The motor doesnt seem that complicated. Its not a quad-cam v-10 or anything.

And as for sending parts off to be machined, is it also required that it be a shop that knows Toyotas?

Also, what kind of fuel mileage can one get out of well tuned, de-smogged 2F with either the 4 or 5 spd?

Thank you for your time.
 
Also, Ive been searching but I seem to be having little luck on the subject...
RUST.
Mainly rain gutter rust.
Can y'all kindly point out any worth while threads on 60 gutter rust? Most of mine is on the passenger rear above the back glass and rear passenger door and above the back hatch.

Aside from repairs, has anybody "shaved" the gutters off?

Thank you again
 
I had a bit of fun attempting to do the rain gutters as you can see, I ended up chopping it out and amateur welding some new panels in i was considering just leaving them off and body filling a smooth finish but i ended up finding some light gauge steel angle to weld on and make up some new channels. Amateur job but i had a good go of it.
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Wow, that makes me feel a lot better.
My rust is maybe 1/4 of what that is.
Amateur welding or not, looks like you did a real good job, to me.
Got any close up pics of the finished product area?
 
So i basically welded in the new panels as shown then just spot welded the channels on, body fillered over the channel weld line and primed and painted. Not a perfect job but saved the 60 from the scrap heap. you can see where i butted the old and the new channel up.
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Just a regular steel supplier, it was mild steel sheet 1.2mm i think. oh and i just used a gassless mig welder for the welding, not ideal a gas mig would have been much better.
 
Just a regular steel supplier, it was mild steel sheet 1.2mm i think. oh and i just used a gassless mig welder for the welding, not ideal a gas mig would have been much better.

You made the right call on flux core wire outdoors. Unless it was dead calm out there the wind just blows your gas away. Nice job on that roof, you made it look easy lol.
 

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