Break controller wiring harness? (1 Viewer)

[BiggestAUfan]

My better half is about to buy a tow behind trailer from a company that makes 2015 versions of the old '60s Shasta's. Dry weight is about 2,300lbs.

Question. Does the standard OEM 5 prong wiring harness contain a break controller or will I need to update the harness on the truck to do so? (When answering please remember when it comes to electronics, fabrication and mechanics I'm a complete numbskull so spoon feed it to me please...)

Also, any tips for towing this sucker once we've got it all ready to go?

THANK YOU!!!

 

[inkpot]

I think the standard plug setup was a 4 pin, and NO, that will not accommodate a brake controller.

 

[BiggestAUfan]

I didn't think so. So, what would one have to do to change the 4 pin to a 7 pin? Are we talking major cash or is it a simple fix?

Also, what about my utility trailer? It's a 4 pin. Do they make 7:4 conversions or do I have to pick one and stick with it?

 

[thedoughboy]

The difference between a 4 pin and 7 pin is, well, 3 pins. The 3 additional pins are: reverse lights, constant power (for charging the trailer's batteries), and brake controller. So, there is not an adapter that I am aware of. The 4 pin only controls brake lights, left turn, right turn, and rear night time lights. You can go from 7 to 4 but not 4 to 7...if that makes sense.

Reverse Lights: This requires you to tap into your reverse lights at the rear of the vehicle. I believe this is RED/Blue Stripe.
Constant Power: This is a fused run to your battery. It is recommended to use at least 12 gauge wire for this. You definitely want to FUSE this as it is "hot" all the time. I remove the fuse when not in use.
Brake Controller: This requires you to get a controller and follow their installation instructions. All of these controllers require you to "sense" when you apply the brakes. Many people do this at the brake pedal. This is a real pain and requires you to really contort your body. An easier location is located in the driver's side kick panel. You will need to locate the brake harness which is a large rectangular plug. Once this is done you tap into the green with a white striped wire. See the attached photo:

Good Luck

 

[stevezero]

I'm having to do the same thing to pull a hybrid camper trailer this summer. I've got a plug n play 4 wire, and have found several adapters on etrailer.com

Here's a 4 to 7 wire conversion that you plug your existing 4 wire into, and has wire and circuit breakers for the brake controller and 12 volt hot. The module that mounts to your bumper/hitch has a 7 prong and a 4 prong receptacle.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/etrailer/ETBC7.html

Is the green/white wire from the brake pedal run all the way back to the tail light? I'm curious to see if you could tap/solder in near the tail light portion of the wire harness for the brake light signal (which i would assume would be the trigger for the brake controller to energize and apply trailer brakes). The rv dealership that I'm renting from says they supply a brake controller, so I'm assuming (know that that word means), that its probably a wireless one. I'm waitin for their folks to call me back to let me know what I need to do for the brake controller wiring on the 7 pin. Ive already got a fused 12v hot source in the rear cargo area that I can use for my constant power.

 

[thedoughboy]

The green with white stripe wire goes to the brake controller, see attached schematic. You can see from the schematic that the controller needs power (+), a ground (-), the tapped brake indicator (red - connected to the green with white stripe), and a blue that runs back to your 7 pin plug.

A word of caution about the rental agency providing the brake controller. Yes, they will provide it but I'd imagine they will charge you for the hook up.

I went through this two years ago and decided to do it myself before the trip. I did not want to waist travel time waiting for someone else to splice into my electrical system. I have seen a lot a hacked systems... It was nice driving up to the rental agency and plugging in. The hardest part about the rental was signing the papers. A brake controller is roughly $100-150. The wire, 7 pin plug and fuses are about $75. Yes, it's more money but for me, it was worth it. Besides, now I have a 7 pin ready for travel

 

[BiggestAUfan]

Thank you for all the help everyone.

Any recommendations for someone that can pull this off in the Mobile/Pensacola/Gulfport areas?

 

[BiggestAUfan]

ok, so here's what happened:

-RV shop installed the brake controller & 7 pin but after install could not get the alarm to stop chirping.
-They disconnected the 16 pin connector under the dash which disabled the alarm.
-The alarm is a TDS (which I thought stood for Toyota Deterrent System) and came from the dealership (so I assumed it was factory installed)
-Then when i pulled out the brakes on the trailer locked up
-RV shop could not figure out why and still have it
-Brake controller keeps tripping

I know the issue is with the new brake controller and/or how they wired it as the trailer was towed over 5 hours to get to our shop with no problems.

Any thoughts?

 

[Lionsgarage]

This is very simple electrics, sorry to say this but find a new shop.
Following the install instructions and diagram should be straight forward.
Only connection to existing wiring should be brake light circuit.
Also, if you chose to include a trailer battery charge wire....don't just fuse a lead to the battery plus. You will want to isolate this power during crane and anytime the ignition key is off....protect both electrical systems that way.
Enjoy

 

[Recruiter]

My .02 after much the same headache - now wrap your head around a screwed up cruise control. What appeared to be a job has become my nemesis. Two years later I am pulling it all out, replacing my cruise computer, and going back to a 4 plug that I can use for the yard trailer and boat. I will tow a camper with the 4Runner.