Brakes (1 Viewer)

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80and100cruisers

SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
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18
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363
Location
Houston, TX
I recently drove my brothers 1991 fj80. After driving my uzj100, the brakes on the 80 seem horrible. I could not get the tires to lock up, and if I am correct there is no anti-lock feature on the 1991 80. Is this about normal for that model? I have read that some people upgrade to 100 series brake pads in the front, is this a good way to increase braking power? We have had the brakes checked from time to time and dealers say that they are fine, but no recent check. Are the fj80 brakes just not all that great? I used to use the 80 as my daily driver, and I remember the brakes not being great.

-Matt
 
If the rotors are not groved or warped, change the brake fluid. Brake fluid brakes down. I drained the whole brake system and used Valoline Syntech brake fluid. My 60 brake fluid in the hyd clutch system was so old and black that it failed to push the slave cylinder in. I put in new Syntech and it worked fine there after. Check the brake lines or just get SS new ones and fill the system with Syntech. I put new rotors and Syntech in and it made a 1000% improvment.
kurt
 
If you don't use the parking brake that often, use it more. The p-brake is what adjusts the rear brake. You should lube up the rear brake adjuster if you live in the GREAT WHITE NORTH as salt will freeze it up.
kurt
 
I am taking it to a local Pro Care shop, hopefully tonight I will post what they found and what they want to do.

-Matt
 
Matt,
I agree with Kurt that you can improve the brake feel with minor work:
1. Make sure the front rotors are in good shape.
2. Make sure the front pads are in good shape. You can use 100 series pads on the 91-92 but it is more trouble and you have to shave some of the surface area before installing. 93-97 will take the 100 front pads without shims.
3. Check the rear drums and shoes.
4. Make sure the LSPV is adjusted properly (my most recent issue)
5. Replace the rubber hoses with SS. I think All-Pro has them at a good price. MAF sells some that are longer than stock.
6. Flush the brake system and use Valvoline Syntec fluid. Now would be a good time for the speed bleeders if you plan to install them. When bleeding the brakes, do not let the brake pedal fully depress. Put a 2x4 block under the pedal and don't forget to remove it before the test drive.

Doing all of the above will get you decent braking but it's not a Porsche so keep some distance between you and the guy in front of you. :G

-B-
 
A little off the subject, but since the quest for better brakes seems to lead to the next generation of LC.

Has anyone ever considered (or if it is even possible) to upgrade the calipers and rotors.
 
Thanxs for all the info. The shop is saying needs new pads and front rotars installed for about $650. I believe them on the rotars, the brakes just felt to weak. I will see how they feel when I get it back tommrow, and than work from there.

Thanks again,

-Matt
 
Eduardo,
I talked to Doug? at Slee's about that one time and he told me something I had not even considered - going to larger rotor/calipers would probably mean going to different rims also, if it is even possible. Things can get deep quick.
Bill
 
Just my.02 but 650 bucks... Ouch Seems like you could have bought rotors and pads all the way around and a shop manual and still saved a couple hundred bucks. You’re in Houston right? Who is doing the work? Some people don’t like to wrench on their own rigs and that’s cool and the gang and all but have you read some of the horror stories over the past couple of days? Sometimes it pays to work on your own junk. Especially when it comes time to beotch about warranty work. Brakes are a good simple place to start when working on your own junk...Again just my.02
 
Yea I am in Houston. It is a shop called Pro Care. They have done work for me before. I only trust myself to do simple stuff....aftermarket lights and stereos...


-Matt
 
Rotors and pads are less than 300.00, possibly 300.00 if they are going to also put in new squeel shims. 650.00 seems a little high. Granted the hubs have to be pulled but still no more than 3 hours to do the job. That would put their shop rate at about $115.00 an hour.
 
Sounds like I need to learn to do the work...after I graduate and my parents stop paying for car maintance ;) That and they wouldn't let me do work for fear of breakage. But that 115 an hour is a rip :ugh:
 
FJ80, HZJ80, FZJ78, FZJ79, HZJ78 and HZJ79 have Twin Piston Calipers in the front and have smaller diameter Rotors. Compared to later 80 Series that have Quad Piston Calipers in the front, But all have Single Piston Calipers in the rear. :slap:
The best upgrade you can do is put Bendix 4WD Pads in. :)
 
Eduardo,

>> Has anyone ever considered (or if it is even possible) to upgrade the calipers and rotors. <<

If you are suggesting upgrading to the 100 series rotors then that would be pretty tough since they are 5 lugs. Your 80 series has 6 lugs.
-B-
 
The rotor is bolted to the hub but the studs protrude thru the rotor. In addition the 100 rotor is fastened with 5 bolts vs 6 for an 80. Regarding the calipers, It doesn't look like the geography would postion the caliper correctly in relation to the rotor.
 

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