I would bleed the right hand brakes again...
I agree. Often the bubbles in brakes can hang in there. One trick I tried out, and had great success with is to smack the caliper with a rubber mallet to jar bubbles loose off the rougher internals of the tubing.
Edit:
brakes.....grrrr I took them apart all the way, I found out your not suppose to do that, could that be why they pull?
what I mean when i said I took them apart is 1 caliper I unbolted the caliper so that it was 2 pieces( 2 halves ) which I read is a no no am I screwed? I did this to both.
You may have dragging or sticky cylinders inside the calipers that are causing this. It could be from wear inside the calipers, or something, dirt or otherwise, inhibiting the smooth flow of the cylinders, or one side's pads are set higher than the others, causing a stronger pull on one side.
I would check out the suspected caliper to see if it's a height, or movement issue.
Don't beat yourself up on the rebuild, folks rebuild those things all the time, and it's easy to run into issues. After a while, though, a caliper can only be rebuilt so many times before the hydraulic surfaces are simply too tired. If you don't know the history of the truck, you may just have tired calipers.
P/S pump and lines, remote reservoir, P/S steering box, brackets to mount all this and maybe an idler pulley.
In my area, alot of first gens are making their way over to the local yards, I'm sure it could be easy to find the parts at this point. It's fairly easy to go to stock P/S because you don't need any new tie rods or drag links, the P/S box is the same size and has the same angles as the manual box.
Pull your exhaust manifold off and check to see how flat it is as well as how flat the header surface on the head is... Silly-cone won't hold up on an exhaust gasket... I've heard of some goo called "Walker Acoustiseal" or something similar that came highly recommended... But any goo will only hold if it's not asked to do too much...
X2! Those manifolds warp over time because they're constantly heating and cooling, officially, you're supposed to have headers and manifolds trued every time you change the gaskets. Silicone will only stick around into the 600's, and exhaust leaving the engine is considerably higher, and at incredible pressure, you really shouldn't expect it to bear the brunt of the exhaust, but it well help the final mating surfaces mate better, if applied as a skim coat on the gasket.
Edit:
gonna us a remflex gasket
Remflex is alright, they do what they need to.
In short: everything Jerod said. I just felt it was worth saying again!
