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Trukk
GOLD Star
I wonder if it's due to living up in the mountains. All that up and down really exercises those brakes.
My guess on rear pads wearing unusually fast is that the vehicle is lifted or "leveled" without resetting the zero point on the ECU. Vehicle is pitched up and as far as the ECU is concerned - you've got a lot of weight on the rear end. So it's apportioning brakes to the rear more than it normally would. Result is quick wear on rear pads/rotors. It's a common issue on the 4Runners. When you change the rake - do a zero point calibration and you'll get proper brake portioning making it both safer and not wearing out the rear brakes so quickly.
I live in Chicago, about as flat as it gets. I do try to spend time in the mountains once a year though.
I did the zero point reset when I lifted. I’m not sure the brake proportioning is adjusted by doing it though.
For me it’s probably due to towing and how I have my trailer brake controller set up. Just a guess
I don't know a lot about the Toyota EBD system other than I think it uses input from both pitch and roll sensors to calculate load on each tire and then manages brake pressure to each channel accordingly. I'm pretty confident that the input would all be based on a calculation of the zero point and any variation from that. But it's also going to assume OEM spring rates, etc. So, aftermarket suspension is going to have some effects on those systems. Without a zero point calibration after raising the front 2 inches the ECU would probably identify it as having 800lbs in the back and apply more brake force.
I have the issue in my Tundra with air springs. If I use the springs to make it sit at full unloaded height, I get no additional rear brake force even when I want more rear brake force. Not always necessary, but often I'm heavier in the rear than front but it's still probably applying most brake force to the front tires.
Towing a trailer probably should be using more rear brakes. Especially with a lot of weight back there. And brakes every 50k isn't the end of the world. Seems like what I'd expect from my HD trucks towing regularly. Sometimes sooner.
I have the issue in my Tundra with air springs. If I use the springs to make it sit at full unloaded height, I get no additional rear brake force even when I want more rear brake force. Not always necessary, but often I'm heavier in the rear than front but it's still probably applying most brake force to the front tires.
Towing a trailer probably should be using more rear brakes. Especially with a lot of weight back there. And brakes every 50k isn't the end of the world. Seems like what I'd expect from my HD trucks towing regularly. Sometimes sooner.
how does one do a zero point calibration?
Zero point calibration of Yaw Rate and G sensor
Reading through the suspension install threads everywhere, I’ve found that everyone seems only to be concerned about the KDSS issues we all know about and getting the front wheels properly aligned, but no one seems to care about the calibration of the Yaw Rate and G sensor. Is it maybe that no...
forum.ih8mud.com
That link has screen shots of the service manual instructions on how to do it. It's pretty easy in most cases.
2015 @ 30K installed Vredestein Pinza AT tires ( replaced Bridgestone OEM Dueler) & rotors turned . $1625 OTD - Les Schwab Tires.
Like a new truck - so far really like the Vredestein Pinza + no more brake pulsating in the steering wheel and seat. Kept original pads 8mm
all around.
Good looking tire/ 70K warranty (FWIW) and great ride feel compared to Bridgestones. Stock image below. I have OEM factory wheels
Like a new truck - so far really like the Vredestein Pinza + no more brake pulsating in the steering wheel and seat. Kept original pads 8mm
all around.
Good looking tire/ 70K warranty (FWIW) and great ride feel compared to Bridgestones. Stock image below. I have OEM factory wheels
Amazingly, I have gotten over 70k miles on my current rear pads and rotors, and that's non OEM (Bosch Rotors, Centric Pads).
I replaced the pads and rotors all the way around at 202k miles right after I bought my truck with Bosch Rotors and Centric pads, a combo I have used on several other vehicles. The fronts warped in 15k miles and were replaced with OEM rotors and TRD pads. Both are still kicking now at 274k miles.
I've towed a fair bit, driven to Colorado and Back 3x, and live on top of a mountain, so they're well past my expectations. I looked before the last long trip and still had 1/4" of pad material all around.
Me too - just replaced rear pads and rotors at 65k. They were down to the metal though
I have done 5 back and forths across the US towing a heavy trailer so I consider it a pretty good value how long the OEM set up lasted. Replaced front pads at 35-40k. Ordered front rotors when I did the pads, but the rotors were hardly worn verus the new set so I fugured I'd save them for the next go-round.ds570
GOLD Star
I just (today) replaced my front pads and rotors on my 18 LX with 71k. The pads and rotors were first replaced at about 35k. My pads were still fine but the rotors were warped. I ordered LC pads and rotors from Camelback Toyota in AZ. I don't remember the price of the pads but the rotors were less than $70 each. "Lexus" rotors (exactly same) were around $90 as I remember.
Trukk
GOLD Star
Team Mud: I've got 48k on the clock, and just ate through another set of rear rotors, so I obviously need to do something to "fix" my rear over bias. I've got about a 3" lift, and removed the rake. Can anyone tell me specifically what needs to be done to do a "Zero Point Calibration"? Is this something with a TechStream? If so can you specifically tell me what needs to be done? If not, what do I need to do?
All this tech is usually welcome, but this is pretty annoying.
The closest Toyota Dealership is about 2 hours away over icy passes, so I'd rather have a local guy do it, but I want to tell him exactly what to do.
HALP Obi-Mud-Kenobi, you're my only hope!
Toyota-4Runner.org - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/71093-yaw-rate-acceleration-sensor-zero-point-calibration.html <- that's how you do it for a 4Runner. I don't know on the LC200, but I think if you find a FSM online it will tell you how. It's probably very similar.
It’s posted somewhere around this forum but the instructions iirc are the same or very close
Trukk
GOLD Star
Any idea where? I could not find it. I'll try and search some more. So many of us are lifted with Rake removed, I'm surprised it's not more front and center.
Search for “zero point calibration”. It’s like the 3rd or 4th hit:
Zero Point Calibration
It's not talked about on this site, but it's a thing in almost all Toyota/Lexus models - zero point calibration. I have not researched this topic enough to understand it fully, but it's generally recommended after any sort of suspension, alignment, steering rack work, that a zero point...
forum.ih8mud.com
