Brake upgrade (2013 LC 200) (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter PhillipPinot
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I think I’m even more confused now. Lol!!
I guess I’ll start with the TRD pads first, then get the stainless steel lines next (any brand recommendation?). If I’m still not happy, or I need more stopping power due to an upgrade (steel bumpers are on my radar), I consider the slotted rotor
Thanks y’all!
I guess I’ll start with the TRD pads first, then get the stainless steel lines next (any brand recommendation?). If I’m still not happy, or I need more stopping power due to an upgrade (steel bumpers are on my radar), I consider the slotted rotor
Thanks y’all!
Markuson
SILVER Star
I just ticked 100k and my stock rotors are hanging in there.
I have to be careful on long down-hills like I-70 into Denver descents, because my heavy rig and 35's will overheat brake pretty quickly if I don't use engine braking. But so far, these still have a lot of life left in them. When next they need rotating, though, I'll probably swap in after-market rotors.
I have the stoptech slotted/ drilled setup with EBC pads and longer SS lines from Slee - very happy with the extra bite, and they've held up very well - a bit over 25k on them now.... agree with most that the pads are the biggest gain in feel and performance.
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55k on the stock setup and still going. I think I'll get to 60k but not likely past that.
I think that is a function of usage patterns — where and how you drive. I commute into Cambridge in heavy stop and go traffic. I’ve got 59k on my Landcruiser and I’ve changed the rotors once. I’m starting to feel some pulsing, so I’m probably closing in on another set of rotors.
In the interest of being able to go, turn, and stop as well as possible, I'm now interested in improving my brakes for both stopping friction as well as fade resistance. Engine provides enough go. I've now got KO2s. I want to be able control my stops better.
I bought the car used so no idea what is on the car now. I would guess factory.
Is the consensus that TRD pads on an 08 LX the best pads to use to improve bite and fade resistance? I'm very happy with Akebono Performance pads over stock on my GS. Looking for similar results for the LX.
I bought the car used so no idea what is on the car now. I would guess factory.
Is the consensus that TRD pads on an 08 LX the best pads to use to improve bite and fade resistance? I'm very happy with Akebono Performance pads over stock on my GS. Looking for similar results for the LX.
They will work very well. Comparing to your Akebono, they will produce more brake dust and may produce some noise but will have better bite, more linear pedal feel and fade resistance. Basically Akebono are ceramic (like stock) and TRD are semi-metallic pads.
My 200 with 128,000 miles just got new Toyota front rotors, turned rear rotors (last time), and Toyota stock pads at every corner. It stops great. I understand using the TRD pads, but Toyota rotors are at the top for quality. When I purchased the LC 200 it had just had brake service so I figured they were poorly designed brakes, but it was bad work (grease on pads), with after market pads. Check what you have before spending good money on aftermarket setups. I found a repair shop that is Okay with me buying my own parts so getting Toyota parts online saved me $. The local Toyota dealer wanted over $100 more for same product: forced me to buy online. Nothing wrong with staying with stock brakes.
I just refreshed my brakes. I chose Toyota OE pads ‘cause they’re quiet, fairly clean and good enough for me (33” tires, nothing real heavy added). I used Rockauto for rotors. I’m not a fan of drilled rotor, just my preference, no judgement if you are. I like slotted and for the front they had Raybestos. I chose the Bendix premium rotors for the rear.
The fronts seem well made, have a nice corrosion resistant finish and in the few miles I’ve driven they’re definitely grippy and true. So far so good and the price is nice. I definitely consider them a minor upgrade over OE.
FWIW- new p-brake shoes and rear discs seem good too. I did have to bed them in a little to get the p-brake to hold. For those who will ask the p-brake is “adequate” at best. Even if we didn’t have a Torsen t-case there’d be no skidding the rear rear wheels for fun.
The fronts seem well made, have a nice corrosion resistant finish and in the few miles I’ve driven they’re definitely grippy and true. So far so good and the price is nice. I definitely consider them a minor upgrade over OE.
FWIW- new p-brake shoes and rear discs seem good too. I did have to bed them in a little to get the p-brake to hold. For those who will ask the p-brake is “adequate” at best. Even if we didn’t have a Torsen t-case there’d be no skidding the rear rear wheels for fun.
our 2016 Sequoia's front brakes, or should I say rotors were warped at 30K. we replaced with NAPA Fleet(their commercial line) pads and rotors- been great. we use NAPA fleet on all our work and personnal vehicles, never an issue ....
Did I read that correctly that the 2016+ LCs have the tundra brake system? Are we talking just larger diameter rotors? Help me understand this. Thanks.
bloc
SILVER Star
Tundras have larger rotors than early 200s and a caliper with moved mounting bolts to match. Also a reverse taper fitting line vs our banjo fitting.
In 16 toyota put the same diameter rotors on 200s but the caliper is different than on a tundra. They moved the mounting bolt location on the knuckle (vs the caliper for the tundra) and the mounting hardware is larger. Presumably to increase stiffness/strength of the whole system. Also the backing plate is appropriate to the new rotor size.
What this means is if you want tundra brakes the easier option is to get backing plate, rotor, and caliper from a tundra and have custom lines made.
The more complete way to go is 16+ 200 knuckles/rotors/calipers/backing plate/lines. This probably also requires 16+ hub & bearing units and dust covers.
I’m pretty hard on my brakes so strongly considered the latter. But, all told the right way was going to be a couple grand just in parts and my TRD pads on new OEM rotors are doing well enough so I’ll probably leave mine like that.
Edit: credit to bjowett for doing the homework on this
Edit2: the larger tundra/16+200 rotor/caliper setup can cause interference issues with some wheels. Stock 18s clear both, 17" rock warriors just barely clear but no problems. Most other 17s won't work, and you'd have to double check your 18s.
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Thanks for clearing that up. I had a tundra before my 200 and loved the brakes on that thing. I have seen what bjowett had done with the tundra IFS swap but didn't understand the difference between the 16 200 and the tundra brake system. This makes sense now.
This is very interesting thread. I have 2016 LC with almost 30K miles. The brakes feel ok to me but do seem to pulse or shudder at certain speeds in slowing down process. I drive like an old man 90% of time so not really issue. I plan to ride out factory pads and rotors till they are done just to see how it goes. I purchased it used with 14k. The Dealer turned the passenger front prior to delivery as part of their inspection process.
As point of reference I went 112K in my 1997 T100 before I need pads on front rotors (still own this). I went 127K in 2006 Honda Pilot before I needed pads on front rotors (LC replaced this). Wife made it 98K in 2009 G37S Infiniti Coupe before needed pads on front rotors. None have had rear brake work to date.
As point of reference I went 112K in my 1997 T100 before I need pads on front rotors (still own this). I went 127K in 2006 Honda Pilot before I needed pads on front rotors (LC replaced this). Wife made it 98K in 2009 G37S Infiniti Coupe before needed pads on front rotors. None have had rear brake work to date.
bloc
SILVER Star
200s are heavy vehicles with small brakes for their mass. Personally I don’t like turning rotors on these as you are just removing mass from the braking system, and very often it isn’t the rotor itself that is warped, it’s uneven pad deposits. The most likely cause of that on these heavy rigs is coming to a stop with hot brakes and sitting still with your foot on the brake to keep it from rolling forward.
One potential exception to this would be a hot rotor submerged in water. Doesn’t happen much.
Some light reading on the warped rotor myth:
One potential exception to this would be a hot rotor submerged in water. Doesn’t happen much.
Some light reading on the warped rotor myth:
Your coming to a stop comment is something I have found to be hugely important and true. As a matter of practice I routinely stop 8ft shorter than I need to. Upon stopping I use the least amount of pressure possible to hold the vehicle and allow it to creep ahead 6” then stop again. After a few seconds go by I creep ahead again, repeat until the 8ft is used up.
I routinely lean on my brakes, tow unbraked utility trailers etc and have good, smooth brake performance with good pad life.
That was a good article, lots of good stuff in one place, worth the read.
bloc
SILVER Star
Good info. Depending on slope if I don’t have room to creep I’ll slide the transmission into neutral.. which reduces the required brake pressure and should reduce pad material transfer. But yes not letting the pads sit in one place is the best method if you must stop with hot brakes.
The other implication for that white paper is that since it usually isn’t a structural problem with the rotor, when you have a pulsing pedal or steering wheel, the uneven pad materials can often be removed with some very aggressive braking. Think repeated hard stops from 60+ to almost zero.. 4 or 5 of them. The goal is to get the pad and rotor hot, but not to the point of failure. Then the VERY important part is to drive continuously until the brakes are cool enough to not just leave uneven pad deposits again.
It can be tough to find a place to do all of this.. I use a section of freeway with near vacant feeder roads and u-turns at each end. This is where I bed in new brakes or get existing ones hot to smooth out any pulsation. Anyone watching must think I’m insane. Which I don’t dispute. But it works.
