Brake system refresh

[mbennett22]

I am in the process of buying new pads, rotors and stainless steel brake lines. My question is how to do this without tech stream? I have seen videos on YouTube and read through the forum on how to bleed the brakes. I'm just concerned knowing that to replace the lines you are introducing air into the system and want to ensure I do this correctly so I don't leave air in the system. Also are there any special tools needed for the job?

Note: I have 230k miles on it and never had a brake system flush.

 

[KLF]

I'm prepping to do the same soon. I just took delivery yesterday of a set of nice shiny brake lines from SDHQ, I also have Speedbleeders to install. I've already done new pads and DBA rotors.

I don't have Techstream anymore (laptop died). I do have a nice pressure bleeder with an adapter for the reservoir, so I'm just gonna go that route. You could also just do the "pump the pedal" method.

 

[CT3]

FWIW the SS lines and DBA pads/rotors made a hell of a difference on my 2015. Just installed in the last 60 days and it’s night and day difference.

Good luck with the bleeding

 

[Artie]

Pardon my ignorance but pumping the pedal won’t accomplish a brake bleed?

 

[TLC2013]

There are a lot of good threads already here on the brake bleed/flush process. This is the one I followed when I flushed the whole system.
In the next few weeks I’ll be installing the Slee Stainless Lines and Stop Tech Sport pads. Will follow this sequence when bleeding the brakes.

Brake flush experience

In a scale of 1 to 10 this is a 2. Steps: 1. Remove old fluid by sucking out from reservoir.. i used a big syringe... get as much without going below minimum 2. Fill up with new brake fluid.. i used the new bosch brake fluid. Compatible with dot 3, 4 or 5 3. Turn on ignition. Start bleeding in...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[mbennett22]

There are a lot of good threads already here on the brake bleed/flush process. This is the one I followed when I flushed the whole system.
In the next few weeks I’ll be installing the Slee Stainless Lines and Stop Tech Sport pads. Will follow this sequence when bleeding the brakes.

Brake flush experience

In a scale of 1 to 10 this is a 2. Steps: 1. Remove old fluid by sucking out from reservoir.. i used a big syringe... get as much without going below minimum 2. Fill up with new brake fluid.. i used the new bosch brake fluid. Compatible with dot 3, 4 or 5 3. Turn on ignition. Start bleeding in...

forum.ih8mud.com

I pretty much understand the bleeding process if you are not changing the brake lines. How is the process different since I’m changing the brake lines? Are you doing one line at a time or draining the system and replacing all lines and refilling then pumping brakes to all bleeders until it looks like new brake fluid?

 

[TLC2013]

I pretty much understand the bleeding process if you are not changing the brake lines. How is the process different since I’m changing the brake lines? Are you doing one line at a time or draining the system and replacing all lines and refilling then pumping brakes to all bleeders until it looks like new brake fluid?

I plan to bleed each caliper after installing the new line. As long as the.resevoir does not empty below the minimum line you will be fine. Plugging the line you are working on will keep the fluid from coming out during the install. I picked up some silicone plugs on Amazon that worked well.
When i installed the new diff during my regear the process it requires disconnecting the lines and i simply plugged them to prevent fluid from escaping and then bled both sides afterwards.

 

[TLC2013]

I'm prepping to do the same soon. I just took delivery yesterday of a set of nice shiny brake lines from SDHQ, I also have Speedbleeders to install. I've already done new pads and DBA rotors.

I don't have Techstream anymore (laptop died). I do have a nice pressure bleeder with an adapter for the reservoir, so I'm just gonna go that route. You could also just do the "pump the pedal" method.

Keep us posted on how this turns out. I hear that these lines help firm up the pedal. I am a few weeks out from getting to my brakes.

 

[tbisaacs]

Pardon my ignorance but pumping the pedal won’t accomplish a brake bleed?

You can pump and bleed front breaks but for back the ignition has to be on and you press and hold. The ABS pump will run and evacuate fluid.

There is also a Techstream utility.

 

[Artie]

You can pump and bleed front breaks but for back the ignition has to be on and you press and hold. The ABS pump will run and evacuate fluid.

There is also a Techstream utility.

Ah, ok. This isn’t out of my wheel house but is different than what I’ve worked on before.

Thanks for the info.

 

[mbennett22]

Thanks for the tip on the plugs for the lines, I hadn't thought about that. I really wanted to get the DBA rotors and pads but right now it was outside my budget so I got the Power Stop K4117-36 Z36 brakes and pads and the stainless steel lines from SDHQ.

Thanks for the help fellas, I really don't know what I'm going to feel the most, new brakes or finally flushing out all the old brake fluid after 230k miles LOL.

 

[kcjaz]

You can pump and bleed front breaks but for back the ignition has to be on and you press and hold. The ABS pump will run and evacuate fluid.

There is also a Techstream utility.

I’m sure this is a stupid question but I’m gonna ask anyway. I confess that I’ve never bled brakes on an ABS equipped vehicle. Why don’t you need to cycle the ABS pump on the front brakes? I’ve always thought you needed a scanner with a bleed function or text stream or something to get the air out of the ABS on all four corners.

 

[tbisaacs]

I’m sure this is a stupid question but I’m gonna ask anyway. I confess that I’ve never bled brakes on an ABS equipped vehicle. Why don’t you need to cycle the ABS pump on the front brakes? I’ve always thought you needed a scanner with a bleed function or text stream or something to get the air out of the ABS on all four corners.

I’m actually not sure but it’s because of the brake booster. If you crack the rear bleeder and pump the brakes you’ll get nothing unless the pump is active. Front doesn’t seem to matter.

 

[kcjaz]

What size tubing do I need to fit the bleed valves? I couldn't find that detail in the threads or FSM and I'm currently not where my 200 is and want to get what I need before I go there to work on it.

 

[bloc]

Yes the rears use the pump but one very important detail is to not let it run for more than 100 seconds at a time.

For that reason and others I advise anyone doing this to get access to the Factory Service Manual and follow those procedures. For starters there is a good volume of fluid trapped in the main pressure accumulator and if you don't bleed that down and replace, the first time you go hit the brakes after your bleed, you just contaminated your fresh fluid with old in one pedal press.

Bleeding that down is as simple as cycling the brakes with the ignition off, and refilling it is as simple as turning the ignition on with fresh fluid in the reservoir, but this is just one part of the real process.

Also bleeding ABS isn't as much about getting air out as getting the humidity-contaminated fluid out of all the valves and passages. Yes, you need techstream to do this correctly.

What size tubing do I need to fit the bleed valves? I couldn't find that detail in the threads or FSM and I'm currently not where my 200 is and want to get what I need before I go there to work on it.

I've always used 1/16" ID vinyl tubing with a short section of softer silicon slipped onto the end of that. Two zip ties, one to hold it onto the vinyl, and another to adjust the correct diameter to get it tight on the bleed nipple, and you're set. I'll try to remember to get a picture when I get home later today.

 

[Artie]

@Hatroad you just eloquently described what I’ve always thought a typical brake job was. How would tech stream make this process different? I’m asking because I’m about to change and flush the brake fluid and it seems pretty straight forward based on what I’ve read on the forum and FSM. Does tech stream make emptying the accumulator easier or something? Just wanna make sure I have a grasp of this concept.

 

[Artie]

Bleeding that down is as simple as cycling the brakes with the ignition off, and refilling it is as simple as turning the ignition on with fresh fluid in the reservoir, but this is just one part of the real process.

Also bleeding ABS isn't as much about getting air out as getting the humidity-contaminated fluid out of all the valves and passages. Yes, you need techstream to do this correctly.

I think you literally just read my mind and answered my question while I was typing it !

 

[bloc]

I think you literally just read my mind and answered my question while I was typing it !

Again, find the service manual. Accumulator bleed increases the level of fluid in the reservoir substantially, to the point that it can overflow.

But yeah, some of it is standard, some of it isn't. It'll make much more sense once you get going with it. Then you won't need to do it again soon enough to remember all the details next time (ask me how I know)

 

[bloc]

What size tubing do I need to fit the bleed valves? I couldn't find that detail in the threads or FSM and I'm currently not where my 200 is and want to get what I need before I go there to work on it.

It isn’t pretty but over probably 15 years it has worked on about a half dozen different vehicle manufacturers

 

[KLF]

I'm prepping to do the same soon. I just took delivery yesterday of a set of nice shiny brake lines from SDHQ, I also have Speedbleeders to install. I've already done new pads and DBA rotors.

I don't have Techstream anymore (laptop died). I do have a nice pressure bleeder with an adapter for the reservoir, so I'm just gonna go that route. You could also just do the "pump the pedal" method.

Follow up. Got these installed yesterday. I replaced all the lines at once, waited until they were all done to bleed.

Note these lines are a little longer, but only in the rear center 2 lines. The fronts are only about 3/4" longer, not much, but that makes sense given the travel of the IFS suspension doesn't change, even with a lift. I have OME rear coils and BP-51 suspension, about 2" of lift.

Other notes, in case someone is planning on this upgrade:

The banjo ends do not have the little "ears" on them to keep them in proper alignment when tightening the banjo bolt:

Similarly, the other ends that fit into the brackets at the hard lines don't have the "flats" that engage into the bracket to keep the hose from spinning while tightening the flare nut. I used an 18mm open-end backer wrench to hold it from turning.

The longer lines in the rear take care to get them installed with a slight "corkscrew" so they don't rub on the gas tank or the UCA. This is how I got them installed, but the truck is still up on the lift, axle drooped:

Make sure you check that they are not rubbing on anything when you get it back down on the ground.

I didn't bother plugging the lines when they were open, here's how I did each line. I used a Harbor Freight line pinch clamp on the OLD line about mid point, then I broke all the fittings slightly loose. I removed the banjo bolt, cleaned the threads out to make sure no dirt entered the caliper (I actually pulled each caliper off and dumped out the old fluid, just to be thorough), then attached the new line at the banjo bolt, snugged tight. Then I quickly removed the upper end, first the little clip then the hard line flare nut, and quickly stabbed the new line on to the hard line. I doubt I lost more than a tablespoon of fluid at each connection, just put a catch pan under and be ready with tools and a rag, go quickly. I draped an old plastic bag on the front suspension to protect it from the spilled fluid (eats paint off!), this helped a lot with the mess. Oh yeah, I also swapped all the old bleeders out for Speed Bleeders (#639560). It is surprising how difficult it is to get 22 ft-lbs on those banjo bolts!

Front line all installed (pass side):

Bleeding: I first did the "pump the brake pedal 40 times" thing to empty the accumulator, no idea if it did anything. Then I had a helper (GF) pump the pedal for the front calipers, then the ignition-on hold the pedal part for the rear calipers. Everything went as it should, I ended up using right around 2 quarts of fluid.

First impression: not a huge difference, but they brakes are a little crisper and engage slightly quicker. I didn't swap pads or rotors, they were all still in good shape (DBA rotors and Hawk Super Duty pads). Maybe next spring I'll treat it to new pads.

Truck goes in for new tires and alignment next Tuesday (Michelins), then I gotta reinstall all the skids, so I'll change the oil and bleed the brakes again, just to be sure I got all the air out.