I had the brakes all done on my '99 TLC about a month ago, and have noticed lately in the afternoon when it's above about 60 degrees, that the brake pedal is really soft. Probalably at least 2 or 3 inches of movement before any braking is noticed. In the morning when it is cool, works and feels normal. Brake fluid is full, no leaks that I know of. They flushed the brake system, put new calipers up front, and new rotors, and pads all the way around. Any ideas?
Brake pedal gets soft when warm outside
- Thread starter dtrout
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Who is the "they"?
i am assuming either the dealer or the shop where the work was done. take it back to them and have them troubleshoot it. it shouldn't be your headache.
most probably air in the system that needs to be bled. most techs I have come around usually use a one man bleeding machine that at times is not as effective as the old two person bleeding mechanism.
either way let the shop worry about this and fix it for you.
good luck.
most probably air in the system that needs to be bled. most techs I have come around usually use a one man bleeding machine that at times is not as effective as the old two person bleeding mechanism.
either way let the shop worry about this and fix it for you.
good luck.
find out if the callipers were original or aftermarket.
most of the times the callipers don't go bad. they just need servicing. either the slider pins are sticking in them or they need to be lubed properly. so to begin with i'm doubtful about this shop's work done. if the callipers are aftermarket, then that could be a reason for the problem as well. did you specify whether you wanted oem or aftermarket parts to put on ?
if you didn't and they have put aftermarket parts, then make a case that you want oem's put there and perhaps pay the difference in the dollar amount as the aftermarket ones are quite cheaper. but then again, find out what problem they found with the callipers to begin with. it doesnt sound right to have both front callipers go bad at such low mileage...
most of the times the callipers don't go bad. they just need servicing. either the slider pins are sticking in them or they need to be lubed properly. so to begin with i'm doubtful about this shop's work done. if the callipers are aftermarket, then that could be a reason for the problem as well. did you specify whether you wanted oem or aftermarket parts to put on ?
if you didn't and they have put aftermarket parts, then make a case that you want oem's put there and perhaps pay the difference in the dollar amount as the aftermarket ones are quite cheaper. but then again, find out what problem they found with the callipers to begin with. it doesnt sound right to have both front callipers go bad at such low mileage...
- Thread starter
- #7
To clarify a bit, my fault, only one caliper was bad and was redone, not both. It was "sticking" and wasn't releasing, withthe result being that the brake pad wore down and started digging intothe rotor. Made horrible sound for a couple of days. With the soft brake pedal, it has been fine first thing in the morning, then after being parked all day, I go to drive it in the afternoon, when the temperature had been upper 60's lower 70's, and that is when I lose at least 3 inches of brake pedal before the brakes grab at all. ANyway, brought it in and they said they have never heard of that in 23 years of being in the business. CHecked for air in the lines and didn't find any. So, will see if it was just a fluke and goes away or is something else. He mentioned a brake booster. Don't know what that means though, and can't see why temperature would make a difference if it was a mechanical part. Especially in respect to temperatures, not abig change. So if you have any other suggestions let me know. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #9
Any other suggestions. Still happening when the weather is warm. Lose 3-4 inches of brake pedal before the brakes kick in at all. Stopped this afternoon after feeling it again and pumped the brakes with engine running several times and it was like the pressure built up and from there on driving home the brakes worked fine. Brake fluid is full. Possibly the wrong kind of brake fluid? (Is there such a thing?)
Your hydraulic booster assembly- or whatever it's called- is probably shot. Try PM'ing CDan about this one- there was a thread about the extra boost on the 100 series a while back. Schotts was doing some engine off braking tests or something.
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
My guess is also that little electric pump in the master is shot. It's like $900 for that little pump, $1400 for the master w/ pump! That's the drawback of the electronic booster/master over a conventional booster/master.
More like a thousand bucks for the pump and 1800 for the assembly.
guess the days of using any ole mini truck or older cruiser master/booster are long gone 
cruiserdan said:
Wow, sounds like your "local brake shop" took you for a ride. Owners must have needed to make a boat payment or something. Shot caliper at 67k? "Never heard of this in 23 years of business?" Yeah, right. I bet this story ends with you opening your wallet even more - makes using a Toyota dealer for service seem smart!
DougM
DougM
I agree. I have yet to see a caliper go bad on a vehicle. Your inside pad will wear more due to the force being aplied from the piston of the caliper. I have seen them to where the outside pad is at 6/32's and the inner is metal to metal. You could try mannualy bleading the brakes again and see if it does anything(if you havent already)
Seriously - find a new mechanic. That sounds to me like a classic poor job of bleeding and some air. The temperature's the tipoff - air expands and contracts with temp changes way more than the fluid will. Bozos. I'd want that pricey and well made Toyota caliper back, too. What? They sold it to a rebuilder for even more profit despite most state laws requiring them to offer it to you? Oh.......
DougM
DougM
- Thread starter
- #17
So, what do you guys think the final assessment is besides getting riped off? Air in brake line? (which was flushed after bringing in a week or two ago), or the brake booster has gone bad? (at roughly 67000 miles) Still happening, again only during warm days.
Bleed the brakes yourself; this is the only way to make sure you don’t have air in your lines. Unless you want to start replacing parts…..$1k~1800 I’d be bleeding the brakes praying that will fix the problem, 
even two or three times just to make sure. I also would get my old calipers back form the mechanic.
Dean
even two or three times just to make sure. I also would get my old calipers back form the mechanic. Dean
jp213a said:
Do you automatically bleed the brake booster as apart of bleeding each wheel brake cylinder? Or is there a different, extra step/process to bleed the brake booster (and if so what is the process)?
I have bled my wheel cylinders, using speed bleeders; replacing the brake fluid as well. The brake pedal 'feel' is better than before however it is still more positive on the second pump of the pedal; wondering if it might be the brake booster or???
FYI: I pumped each wheel cylinder approximately 30-times for each...
