Brake pads - Hawk LTS vs Toyota TRD (1 Viewer)

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linuxgod said:
I wish DBA would publish the distances for each of the 10 runs, not just the average. Or at least min, max, average, and stdev. Maybe the first few stops with the OEM setup were actually shorter, but the DBA setup had less fade so the last few were much better. Or maybe the DBAs are better all around.

I also wish they would have done the test with OEM pads but DBA rotors. There's nothing in the test that proves to me that the DBA rotors made any significant difference. I think you would have gotten similar performance gains by simply changing from the OEM ceramic pads to semi-metallic, since metallic pads absorb some of the braking heat much better than ceramic.

$0.02
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Well said, I highly doubt a disk is going to reduce stopping distances. The OEM pad is built to have a good blend of cold and hot braking. There is no one racing a 200 on track, I'd rather have a brake setup for what will actually happen, driving on roads and someone does something stupid and I have to emergency brake with a relatively cold brake.
 
Very good points, gentlemen.

Damn this is a great forum.
 
Taco2Cruiser said:
From my 200 when I went to braided, ohh, yeah!, there is a big difference.

The reason why the LC didn't get steel from the factory is because rubber is actually very good, it's super strong, can take pinches better, can in theory handle the elements better, and much cheaper. While there is a lot that goes into a brake system, not all vehicles need steel braided to have a very hard brake pedal feel. My dads Lexus RX has the hardest brakes I've ever felt and that has rubber lines. But on my 200, FJ, and Tacoma, steel braided was the only thing that actually had a measurable improvement in brake engagement.
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Taco: Did you do anything else with your brakes? Did you leave everything else stock? Should I consider doing this first before putting 2016 calipers in?
 
Reckless said:
Taco: Did you do anything else with your brakes? Did you leave everything else stock? Should I consider doing this first before putting 2016 calipers in?
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oh brother, you know i can't contain myself to short answers, so here we go.

I did add Hawk LTS pads, yet did not notice even a bit better stopping, I do stand by my earlier comment about TRD pads being a better all around pad than Hawk, but i'd be lying if I didn't enjoy testing a wide variety of components.

Steel braided from Goodridge out of Britain was who I went with because I didn't want to piece together a crown kit, plus i've had crown lines split rather regularly. Plus this kit comes with all six (6) lines needed.

As far at the whole tundra brake "upgrade" thing, yes the disk is larger, and leverage is always an improvement, but lets have some fun with science:
2008-2015 200s used a front disk that is 13.4 inches in diameter with a swept area (that's the rather important part) of 287 sq in.

The 2016-on 200 and 2007-on tundra front disk is 13.9 inches in diameter with a swept area of wait for it... 287 sq in.

Both these brakes have the same surface area because they use the same caliper with the same pistons and even the same pads, leverage is the only aid.

Now some with say that the engineers found that they were mistaken, and saw the light of using tundra disks in the year of our lord 2016. Ok, the tundra is a good truck, but there are things about it that were made to purely compete in the American full size truck market, and how you compete is by big numbers, doesn't really matter is it works better, but as long as the number is higher. From the front disks (because Silverado was 13.5) to the rear 10.5 ring gear (even though our 9.5 has a stronger housing, doesn't matter, 10.5 is better) 'Merica!!!!

The 2016 is filled with marketing numbers, from the 8 speed that wasn't needed and doesn't help mpg or towing (does have a sweet 4.795 first gear, but they ruined it by giving it 3.307 diff gears, yuk. also check out the fast lane truck and watch a 6 speed and a 8 speed 200 drive the towing test) to big 'ol DVD screens all to really compete against range rovers.

So I would invest in a $175 kit long before tossing a grand at something that won't do much, now if my disks were warped and pads gone, and a caliper may or may not be sticking, yea, I'd go to tundra components.
 
Thanks, ordering the brake kit. My mechanic was giving me a hard time about it not do anything but he is willing to install it if I really want. He said the same thing before on my bmw 3 series which is currently in the shop for cracked brake lines (over 20 years old).
 
I was charging down the tundra upgrade path but have pulled back for the moment.

I'm not completely convinced that potential cons are worth the perceived advantage in heat capacity.

Concerns:
1) Brake bias, too much brake dive, low traction/snow condition
2) ATRAC is finely tuned and dependent on the response of the brakes

Plus I just don't have time at the moment to sort out the brake line myself. It's not like the land cruiser brakes are a budget spec. It is one of Toyota's halo cars. So I'll trust their engineering judgement on this one.
 
Same here. We did the goodridge braided line upgrade today and noticed brakes were at 25% so decided to replace them while it's on the rack. I am ordering stock rotors with TRD pads front and rear. My mechanic was strongly suggesting to stick with OE pads because of brake bias but I tend to drive semi aggressively and wanted better stopping distance. I figured if DTS brake kit (rotors + pads) were able to reduce stopping distance by 21 feet, TRD pads/OEM rotors should be similar.

While ordering my brake parts, I noticed that there is a TRD caliper brake upgrade for the Tundra was wondering why no one thought about them instead of the 2016 calipers.
 
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The TRD caliper requires a 20" wheel.
 
Wanted to post an update - I put TRD pads in the rear brakes, so now I have TRD pads all around. Much happier with the brake feel and performance. Recommend moving to all TRD pads at the same time. If you find the stock setup lacking, the pads are a cheap "fix." For what it's worth, the stock rear pads were FF friction coefficient, and the TRD rear pads were GF. DOT Pad Codes
 
Where have you guys found the best place to get the Goodridge brake line kit?
 
Okay, am I crazy? I called up my local dealer to do the transmission TSB and the Entune update, I asked, based on this thread, if they could swap in a set of TRD pads. They claim there are no TRD pads that'll fit a 2016 Cruiser? What's the deal, is the updated 2016 calipers not able to take the TRD pads?
 
MrCWineMan said:
Okay, am I crazy? I called up my local dealer to do the transmission TSB and the Entune update, I asked, based on this thread, if they could swap in a set of TRD pads. They claim there are no TRD pads that'll fit a 2016 Cruiser? What's the deal, is the updated 2016 calipers not able to take the TRD pads?
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I have TRD pads on my 2016. I bought them from Toyota of Dallas and had the local dealership install them. On an unrelated note, they returned the truck to me without bedding the pads and also my front and rear lockers were turned on. Ugh.
 
indycole said:
I have TRD pads on my 2016. I bought them from Toyota of Dallas and had the local dealership install them. On an unrelated note, they returned the truck to me without bedding the pads and also my front and rear lockers were turned on. Ugh.
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That was my suspicion - any chance of a part number? And if I were a dealer I'd turn on lockers to, because why not right? I picked up my FJ60 from a shop and it was in 4Lo because... they needed to drive it off the lift? I've got no clue how that stuff happens.
 
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