Brake line help (1 Viewer)

[breckbone]

Hi All. It's been ages since I've posted here...and even longer since I've been able to drive my 40, sadly enough.

Anyway, I'm trying to finish a conversion from a single circuit to dual circuit master cylinder and also replacement of all my brakeline. I've had flaring issues that I resolved by having a local shop flare some and also I bought pre-bent/flared lines from SOR.

Everything is connected and I'm getting multiple leaks. I'm fairly frustrated as I chose this as a good learning project and it's clearly over my head and I'm not sure how to resolve it. I had leaks before on the lines I flared which is why I went w/SOR...thought that might resolve it.

Here's my plea: Is there anyone in the NOVA area (I'm in Burke) that has experience w/this kinda stuff that would be willing to come by and lend a hand? I'd be happy to negotiate a fee...buy beer, food, whatever...I just wanna get this beast back out on the road and do it right.

Any help with diagnosis, solution, wrenching, would be hugely appreciated!

Cheers,

Craig

 

[StaleAle]

Craig -

Be sure that you are using the 10mm fittings at both ends, and not the 3/8" adapter fittings. They are similar in size and the 3/8 male fitting will screw into the 10mm female fitting, but it will be too loose to get a decent seal.

 

[76FJ40]

If your Cruiser is old enough to have a single circuit you may have 9mm fittings, not the newer 10mm.

How do the flares look? Are the edges smooth and do they form a circle or are they jagged or form more of an oval?

 

[breckbone]

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. It's a 68, so it is old enough to have all the 9mm fittings, but I've ditched em all for 71 fittings, Master, and lines. I purchased it all as a kit from SOR, so it should all match. The threads in all were fine and the flares, as well as I could tell, were symmetrical circles. I tried flaring on my own but never got it to look perfect (or close, even) and decided to let someone else do it. I had to do a few custom cuts/bends to make up for shorter lines on the 71, but the flares the Midas guy did for me looked fine.
I've cranked the fittings down to make sure they're tight...Kind of at a loss for where to go next. I'm actually considering having it towed to a brake shop to have them do it, but then I'd probably be dropping 3-4 times $$ what I've already go into it and, if I'm close and the fix is simple, I don't want to overlook it...

 

[76FJ40]

My only suggestion is to make sure the fittings are cranked tight. The use of a good flare nut wrench will help prevent rounding the fitting.

 

[Jakes40]

Try tightening the nut then loosening and retightening it. That's what I've done on mine and only had one leek.

Chris

 

[Thornton]

Craig,

Glad to hear that you still have the 40. How have things been going? The last we talked your wife was expecting. I'd try what Bob and Chris are suggesting.

Tom

 

[John Smith]

Are you 100% positive the Midas guy double flared on 10mm Japanese fittings and not European? Are you getting leaks from both the SOR lines, and the Midas lines? At what connections are your leaks?

 

[breckbone]

Hi Bob, things are great and our daughter is almost 3...time flies!
Anyway, I ordered some flare nut wrenches and will give every fitting the loose/re-tighten treatment and see what that does.

John, the fittings and unions I used are all from SOR. The Midas guy double-flared them correctly.

I'll report back once I get the wrenches and try it again.

Thanks for the input!

 

[76FJ40]

Glad things are good with the family. Sears usually stocks the 10mm flare nut wrench but I always borrow Ryan's Mac because it fits so well.