I recently changed my pads and rotors to EBC green stuff and EBC rotors. I did the regular break in of hard stops in a deserted parking lot and I'm about 1000 miles after the update. I've since noticed that when I brake hard my GX wants to pull to the right. It doesn't happen all the time but sometimes it's more noticeable than others. I bought a Motive brake bleeder and plan to do the job this weekend. That in mind, while I was driving home from work today I got on the brakes to slow down for my exit and noticed the brakes sort of pulsating. The pedal was at a level I normally do for a gentle slow down but it would hard brake, soft, hard brake, soft for about 3 seconds. I was able to keep control and slow down for the turn safely but it was a little nerve racking and felt like the brake wanted to lock up with only a little force on the pedal. For the remaining mile or so home off the highway I didn't notice it again and it was back to normal. Could this all be related to needing a good brake bleed or am I missing something like an potential fault with the ABS?
Brake Help
- Thread starter GXOutlaw
- Start date
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Sounds like a dragging/stick caliper. I’d bleed it again. Did you have rust in your pistons?
I have had a rotor from ebc warp in the first 100 miles with normal use. They sent me a new one.
I have had a rotor from ebc warp in the first 100 miles with normal use. They sent me a new one.
- Thread starter
- #3
It only happened the one time last night and the brake pedal felt very hard. I actually my GX up on a lift 2 weeks ago to change the passenger manifold at my father-in-laws shop. He took a look at the rotors and thought they looked good. Could that be a failing brake booster? Either way, going to bleed the brakes tomorrow and see if that does anything.
if it pulls to one side, it would indicate that the calipers aren't clamping the rotors evenly. This would most likely be due to a stuck caliper piston which is not uncommon on our trucks. A bleed wouldn't likely fix this unless you introduced air into the system by installing calipers or hoses, but you didn't mention doing that so, my guess is the caliper. Were any of the caliper pistons particularly hard to push back in when doing the brake job initially? If it is pulling to the right when braking, it is your left caliper that is seizing. As for the pulsing, my guess is that the booster is over-reacting due to the caliper. I have not experienced any of this yet on my truck so I am simply speculating based on other threads I have read.
- Thread starter
- #5
Now that you mention it, when I changed out the rear rotors and pads, the back right pins fit a bit more snug than the rear left. At the time I replaced the pins and seal boots and it was smoother but still noticeably not as smooth as the left. Also the rear left was a newer caliper than rear right. Both fronts looked ok. That in mind should I just replace the rear caliper?
I literally have to replace OEM calipers almost annually and I don't have salt. They freeze up constantly. I wouldn't hesitate to swap in a Napa caliper. I upgraded my front to Wilwood and the rear are going Ceika. All aluminum, stainless, and sealed. I got tired of spending money every year on calipers.
- Thread starter
- #7
I dont think I need a big brake kit... any recs on other brands though? I see Raysbestos, AC Delco, Beck Arnely... all appear affordable through partsgeek all well under $100. $170 for oem lexus on LexusPartsNow
460 work in the front only. Rear has the same caliper and a rotor that won't fit a 470 axle.
Yes sorry I was referring to the fronts. I didn't see that he was asking about the rear calipers.
What is the real benefit of using the 460 front calipers?
Better braking less freezing up off the caliper
- Thread starter
- #13
I flushed the brake system this morning. I'm not sure when it was last changed but hopefully it's good for a while. My post change drive still has a little pull to the right but it's improved overall. Also pedal feel is stiffer than before. Whilst doing the flush I noticed the passenger front has a different bleed pin (8mm) as opposed to all of the rest (10mm). Both front calipers looks the same. Also drivers rear caliper looks like it's been replace and looks newer than passenger rear. Also, with the rears, the passenger side pins are considerably more sticky than the drivers' side. All that in mind, which caliper is the likely culprit?
I find it weird that I never had an issue, at least over the year and a half that I've owned my GX, but since changing pads and rotors all of a sudden one caliper starts to seize...
I find it weird that I never had an issue, at least over the year and a half that I've owned my GX, but since changing pads and rotors all of a sudden one caliper starts to seize...
perhaps you have a pad that is not seated correctly and therefore not allowing proper clamping of the brake? Try taking it all apart, clean and lube the pins and see if there is anything out of place while doing it.
The GX460 rotors are the same diameter but they are thicker width. The thicker width allows for larger vents and should fade less.
One down side is more rotational mass. Obviously these aren't performance based machines so the decrease in performance, though small probably wouldn't be noticed but the factor that would concern me would be mpg. Every drop matters...
That said, I don't have them so I'm only applying logic, not real world experience so take it with a grain of salt.
One down side is more rotational mass. Obviously these aren't performance based machines so the decrease in performance, though small probably wouldn't be noticed but the factor that would concern me would be mpg. Every drop matters...
That said, I don't have them so I'm only applying logic, not real world experience so take it with a grain of salt.
