Brake Help Needed...asap.. Pig is making me late for work..ugh. (1 Viewer)

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REDDER1

REDDER1

Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Threads
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Location
North Georgia, USA
Brake Help Needed...asap.. BIG BLACK is making me late for work..ugh.

Ok,

...Im back!..


So I have 2 problems. #2 is MORE important right now as I am moving some stuff this weekend and i need the pig to take me to work!.

#1. This past weekend i was braking and hear 'metal on metal'. My pads were so worn away that they ate into the discs..not really bad but noticable. I immediately stopped driving the rig. Now, i know some of you are going to say 'dumbass..why didnt you change the pads'. Well, I did (twice since i have owned the thing). Last change was about 18K ago. When i pulled off the pads..the metal 'squeal' tab was gone. Probably squealed/broke off when my girl was driving and she never told me. Question #1: What is 'bad' when it comes to rotors being chewed up? They look rough (not smooth). What is the cost to get rotors turned/relpaced? Can i get away with just new pads for now?

#2 So, I got up really early to change the pads on the rig cause they were bad (see #1). I changed the front PS ones no problem. However, one of my brake pistons froze on the right DS (upper /inner piston). I pushed on it for a good hour. All three other pistons were moving back and fourth..but this one is STUCK. What to do? This is my DD and i need to get to work. I am in the process of callinng a tow truck to take it to the shop. But, I wanted to check with you guys first on suggestions. How much will this cost me $$ to get the piston fixed? Is it worth it for me to mess around with it or just bring in into a shop.


any help advice would be appriciated.

Ps..I have 1996 BIG BLACK


I am glad I can count on the guys here and this forum. Thanks..

Later,
Joe...
 
Last edited:
In my opinion, any scarring or scuffing of the rotor means replacement no ifs, ands, or butts. Brakes are one of our most important mechanisms, I try to take this into account always. Again, for me, the answer is easy - so easy in fact that I do not even have to think about it - get new OEM rotors (if yer taking it to yer mechanic do not accept and do not ask for any aftermarket rotors other than DBR perhaps) and new or rebuilt calipers. Get all these things from CDAN. Not sure if Toyota sells new or rebuilt calipers or rebuild kits or what but definitely do not drive with a seized up caliper. You might have to change your plans this weekend and err on the safe side while these things get resolved. Again, I would never drive my rig with brakes in the shape that you have stated yours are in. Ohh, this is not intended to have the "lecturing tone", its just that is is that important indeed and no one wants you messed up from an avoidable accident. HTH. :cheers:

PS - Me Likee Avatar! Wow, who is that???
 
When I first bought my '93 the PO had done the same thing on the pads - to the point of wearing a ring around the rotor where the indicator was! My rotors still had plenty of thickness (aside from the ring) - so I paid a guy under the table to turn them and ran them fine (until I could get new). I would not just replace the pads on uneven/warped rotors - you really need to have them turned/replaced. New rotors from cdan are around $100 ea. IIRC - sounds like you need a caliper rebuild kit as well ($40) for the stuck piston.

Good luck!

Tucker
 
I planned on replacing the rotors..just was hoping i didnt have to do it this weekend.

What kind of $ are we talking? Looks like I need new front rotors, and a new left (DS) caliper plus labor to put on. ugh..

What could I expect for a shop $ to install the rotors? I dont want to get hosed here.


Can anyone reccommend a good Trustworthy shop in Northern NJ? I live in Clifton.


...has anyone ever seen the movie money pit? haha..
 
Arya Ebrahimi said:
Rotors are not $100 a piece from CDan, I just got some, and they were definately closer to half that figure...
Click to expand...

The rears are 'bout a bill each. I guess the fronts are cheaper 'cuz there's less to them.

If you just change the pads, you'll have less braking effectiveness, but you'll also have to re-replace the pads when you get the new rotors. I suppose if it's a matter of having to drive it, that would be better than nothing.
 
What is involved with a calipar rebuild kit? I am not a great mechanic..I managed to change brake pads, tie rod, drag link, ome coils, shocks, spark plugs, Beyond those things..i am not skilled. What kind of a job is this?

But, I have more questions. To turn the rotors dont you have to remove them? And if you remove them arent you 1/2 way to a full repack?

Wouldnt it make sense to have someone repack, replace with new rotors and fix calipar all in one shot? Again..what would that cost though? $$



Sorry for all the questions. But as you can see I have a limited budget..and even more limited time. I am getting ready to buy a house and have a wedding. so my budget is REALLY tight now.


thanks again guys.

..has anyone seen the movie 'money pit'
 
Arya Ebrahimi said:
What's an AV?
Click to expand...
Just being lazy - meant the avatar (if you didn't see it - I can't help you!).

Back to our regularly scheduled program - to turn your rotors you'll need to take the rotor and hub assembly to most shops (they won't have an adapter big enough for just rotor). It's a little bit of a pain - but the only thing you'll need to replace is the inner hub seals (and repack the hubs/bearings of course).

Tucker
 
Yes you have to remove the rotors to turn them. To remove the rotors you must dissassemble the hub. A full-repack is much more involved than dissassembling the hub, assuming you intend to R&R the knuckle seals while you have it apart. Taking the hub off apart isn't a hard job, probably takes about 15 minutes per side. If I was motivated and in a shop I could probably put new rotors on in about an hour and a half. In the driveway, about 2-2.5. I haven't rebuilt calipers before, but I will be learning how this weekend hopefully(ordered all the stuff from CDan).

Anyway, Dan opens at 8am Mtn time, which is 2 hours different from us on the east coast. Call him in 45 mins and chat with him. I will say that I have in an emergency gotten some cheapy pads from pepboys and thrown them on w/ grooved f-ed up rotors to get home in my Jeep(pads were shot and didn't know it = rivets on pads ate into rotor = swapping pads in pepboys parking lot at 9pm on a Saturday). However you seem to have a seized up caliper which concerns me. If it were just the pads I'd say get some cheap pads so you can get on with work and what not until you have time to do the rotors/pads on the weekend. Take it for what it's worth.

Ary
 
While I was doing a full repack of the birfs, I noticed on the right hand side brake, it looks like one of the pistons is stuck as the pad is worn at an angle across it's length and I think that has warped the disc, which gives me some juddering from high speed and you can feel the pedal go up and down very slightly when near to a stop.
My rotors are in excellent condition but in need of a skim to true them up, I checked out the price here in the UK for the rotors and they are £120 each so I looked on ebay and actually won the bidding at £21 for the pair, brand new but not Toyota.
but it will get me by while I turn up the rotors that are on there, you have to bear in mind, that you can't just put the rotors in a lathe and turn them, you have to make up a solid hub that the rotor will bolt too, so in other words, get a 5" solid round steel about 5" long put it in the lathe chuck, face it off, then drill and tap 4 holes in the end so the rotor can be bolted to it, 12mm. before you bolt the rotor to the hub, you then have to skim the front of the hub, that will make it dead true, you then bolt your rotor to it, and then face off the rotor, you can use the hub as often as you like, but each time it is taken out of the chuck and put back in, it has to be faced off, before you bolt a rotor on, it's the only way to get the discs turned true!
PS.... I purchased a the pads for the front today from local Toyota shop and they cost £75 bet they are half that price in the USA LOL we get ripped off so bad here in the UK
 
Ok..well, it looks like i am going to try to tackle this myself.

In reading the FSM..it doesnt 'seem' too hard to replace the discs. BUT..we all know how the LC's bite back and turn a simple project into a royal PITA. So, I think i am going to replace both front discs and the front DS Calipar.

But, can anyone offer any suggestions when taclking this project? I noticed there are a few seals and gaskets (which i am going to replace) on the Hub . I am alsso going to get all new bolts as I am almost certain (with track record of this rig) that I will prob strip the bolts because PO never had any work done...and they are probably frozen. But, What else should I be aware of/look out for? I see the torque specs in the FSM. Any other words of warnings before I take this on? I am going to order the parts today from Dan..and prob work on the rig this weekend. Funny thing is that I will be working on it in the middle of a road ( i have street parking where i live)!

It looks like (per the FSM) i remove the hub, pull the hub and disk off, replace disk, put back together.

ugh..

later,
Joe

PS..dont know who the girl is..but I liked it!
 
BTW.........and 80 series is NOT a pig, a fj55 is a pig :D
 
i would suggest trying to turn the rotors first, they are designed to be turned to a certain depth, then replaced, unlike some manufacturers whose rotors are not meant to be turned (mercedes). you definitely need to either turn rotors and new pads or new rotos and new pads all at the same time, otherwise your bo-bo'd rotors will eat you new pads in no time flat
 
Landpimp said:
BTW.........and 80 series is NOT a pig, a fj55 is a pig :D
Click to expand...


YAA! I almost got overzealous and moved this thread. 80 no piggie. 80 badass machine.
 
mine is a big fat disgusting black PIG! oink oink.

Just ordered rotors and calipar rebuild kit from dan.

Dan is 100% A+

thanks Dan!

Hey Arya Ebrahimi ...looks like i am going to be rebuilding a calipar this weekend also.

Anyone ever do ths before?

Joe
 
Look at that caliper real close. If the rotor was worn down as well as the pads that piston might have come out just far enough to get cocked a little which would resist getting pushed back in. Take a pair of slip joint plyers and try and rotate the piston to see if that will get it working.






And Best of luck getting that knife out or your fiancee's skull.
 
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