I just replaced the ABS Actuator / brake master cyl assembly this weekend. 236K miles now DD since new.
Symptoms - ABS light and brake light on dash plus the annoying alarm out of the blue. Brakes worked for about 2 miles and then completely failed. Was able to panic stop at a stop sign dropping to low gear and hand brake. Would not have been a good outcome any other time... When those lights come on w the alarm, park the truck. Brake reservoir was “overfull” as in up to filler neck. Let it sit overnight, turned ignition to acc and both lights and alarm were still on. Plugged in scanner = zero codes. While scanner was connected, ABS and Brake lights + alarm turned off. Brake fluid level returned to normal. Was able to drive truck home and order parts. While the lights / alarm did not come back on, I did not trust my luck with loss of brakes. Not easy to stop this truck w just the hand brake.
Sam at Toy South Atlanta helped me out w the part and delivery. – Thanks Sam! Ordered the complete ABS Actuator / Brake Master Cylinder assembly.
R&R was not bad. Would have been easier with another pair of hands but I used a 1x4 from fender to engine and a strap to hold the unit in place while removing the 4 nuts (12mm) in the drivers footwell. FSM says to remove all of the under dash pads - not necessary. I was able to remove two nuts on ABS ECU (10mm) to move aside and then remove the 4 nuts and clevis pin. I had to remove two bolts (12mm) to move the “control box” in front of the assembly a little forward to wrestle the assembly out. Install was the same, wiggle in place and h0ld w the 1 x 4 + strap to keep it aligned while securing the 4 nuts. The clevis pin and clip took a little time as you cannot see the hole in the pin.
I had Sam provide 6 x 12 oz Toy brake fluid (with discount around price of single bottles at retail), saved a trip to auto parts store. I used all 6, a lot of air in system… I would suggest getting qty 7 to be safe.
Followed the brake bleeding instructions in the FSM / threads on here. It took 3 x the step to precharge the system (pump brake pedal 40 x and listen for booster pump to stop). This process just takes time to bleed (10mm box) in a garage w floor jack 1 wheel at a time. Needed a helper
– to sit in the truck and hold the pedal down while bleeding. Bled all 4 then took it to the HS parking lot and “panic stopped” 4 to 5 x to activate the ABS. Then back to the garage to bleed all 4 again.
I could have gone to the dealer and had them run an ABS scanner on the system to narrow down what the root cause was (probably ABS actuator). Unfortunately being my DD, I only had the weekend to get it back operational.
Total outlay $2,168 (assembly + fluid) and some wrenching time. As the LC has been paid for a long time ago, this and replacing the radiator a few weeks back is still way cheaper than a monthly payment…
Symptoms - ABS light and brake light on dash plus the annoying alarm out of the blue. Brakes worked for about 2 miles and then completely failed. Was able to panic stop at a stop sign dropping to low gear and hand brake. Would not have been a good outcome any other time... When those lights come on w the alarm, park the truck. Brake reservoir was “overfull” as in up to filler neck. Let it sit overnight, turned ignition to acc and both lights and alarm were still on. Plugged in scanner = zero codes. While scanner was connected, ABS and Brake lights + alarm turned off. Brake fluid level returned to normal. Was able to drive truck home and order parts. While the lights / alarm did not come back on, I did not trust my luck with loss of brakes. Not easy to stop this truck w just the hand brake.
Sam at Toy South Atlanta helped me out w the part and delivery. – Thanks Sam! Ordered the complete ABS Actuator / Brake Master Cylinder assembly.
R&R was not bad. Would have been easier with another pair of hands but I used a 1x4 from fender to engine and a strap to hold the unit in place while removing the 4 nuts (12mm) in the drivers footwell. FSM says to remove all of the under dash pads - not necessary. I was able to remove two nuts on ABS ECU (10mm) to move aside and then remove the 4 nuts and clevis pin. I had to remove two bolts (12mm) to move the “control box” in front of the assembly a little forward to wrestle the assembly out. Install was the same, wiggle in place and h0ld w the 1 x 4 + strap to keep it aligned while securing the 4 nuts. The clevis pin and clip took a little time as you cannot see the hole in the pin.
I had Sam provide 6 x 12 oz Toy brake fluid (with discount around price of single bottles at retail), saved a trip to auto parts store. I used all 6, a lot of air in system… I would suggest getting qty 7 to be safe.
Followed the brake bleeding instructions in the FSM / threads on here. It took 3 x the step to precharge the system (pump brake pedal 40 x and listen for booster pump to stop). This process just takes time to bleed (10mm box) in a garage w floor jack 1 wheel at a time. Needed a helper
– to sit in the truck and hold the pedal down while bleeding. Bled all 4 then took it to the HS parking lot and “panic stopped” 4 to 5 x to activate the ABS. Then back to the garage to bleed all 4 again. I could have gone to the dealer and had them run an ABS scanner on the system to narrow down what the root cause was (probably ABS actuator). Unfortunately being my DD, I only had the weekend to get it back operational.
Total outlay $2,168 (assembly + fluid) and some wrenching time. As the LC has been paid for a long time ago, this and replacing the radiator a few weeks back is still way cheaper than a monthly payment…
