Brake Discs, Most Bang For The Buck?

[MSGGrunt]

Which brake disc offers the most bang for the buck? I know OEM is good, Slee's products always seem to be top-notch, and I've heard a bit about DBA. I need to replace my front discs (125,000) and would like to put a quality, not the $50.00 Korean made Autozone disc, on my cruiser.

These are the options:
Slee's Cross drilled and slotted, zinc plated for $95.00 plus shipping.

OEM Toyota, around $100.00 from Dan free shipping over $100.00 I think.

DBA from Man-A-Fre
DBA 4000 series slotted $129.00
DBA 4000 series cross drilled and slotted $139.00
DBA Long Life Gold, cross drilled and slotted $109.00
DBA Long Life slotted, not cross drilled $109.00

The Slee Off-Road disc.

 

[MSGGrunt]

DBA's as sold by Man-A-Fre.

DBA 4000 Series

 

[reffug]

You just doing discs or are you doing rotors as well?

I would go with Cdan myself and if I was doing rotors I would go with 100 series pads.

 

[MSGGrunt]

DBA Long Life Gold both cross drilled and slotted as well as just slotted.
DBA Long life, not Gold, just slotted.

 

[MSGGrunt]

I know I will at least be doing the fronts with rebuilt calipers and 100 series pads. I believe the rears have less wear on them because of an out of adjustment LSPV.

 

[MSGGrunt]

I guess I'm wondering if for a bit more money any of the DBA or that offered by Slee is a bit better. The gold, if cadmium plated, and Slee's zink plated would seem to hold up better at fighting rust. I know the cross drilled and slotted doesn't really make that much of a difference correct?

 

[-Spike-]

You just doing discs or are you doing rotors as well?

Huh?

-Spike

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I have the x-drilled and slotted on my truck and them seem to chew through pads pretty quick. I've got the 100 series pads on for the first time, we'll see how long they last.

 

[cruzizzle]

Cross drilled rotors are good for nothing on street applications except some people think they look nice. They were made so that sheeple can be just like Mario Andretti. The "marketing" behind them is that they dissipate heat faster. In all-out racing applications, that may be true. Even this is subject to debate, as slotted versions provide the same benefit without weakening the rotor and providing less stopping surface.

Unless you have a racing Landcruiser , you don't need (want?) drilled rotors. IMO, these are every bit as cheesy as headlight covers,beadlock simulators, and Autozone spinner hubcaps. If you have an F50, then we can talk about drilling and safety wire... (And we should really get to be better friends).

 

[GXO]

not to mention that cross drilled will grab crap and cause problems offroad...nothing like a little pebble wedged in there to chew up some pads.

 

[MSGGrunt]

With all that being said, and I agree that cross drilling is, IMHO, just bling, that leaves the OEM Toyota or the DBA slotted only rotor. Any difference in these two? The DBA is made in Australia correct? Does this mean that they have improved upon, if that is possible, on the OEM Toyota design given the large number of cruisers down there?

I just purchased two Cardone limited lifetime rebuilt calipers from my local auto parts store for $74.00 each. I just need the OEM Toyota 100 series pads and top quality rotor/discs.

 

[MSGGrunt]

As posted by Steve-O of Man-a-fre on the 60 board.

If you do decide to get them, I would reccomend the slotted only as well. Technically the drilling is for the bling factor, the slotting is the real upgrade here. We have the standard slotted and the 4000 series, which have the specail kangaroo paw venting, they are also heat treated and hardened.....nice.

Because they are cheezy rotors cast in China, and warp after a long trip around the block! The quality that goes into the DBA rotors is pretty much un-matched, whether they are slotted or not, they will still last much longer.

I'm really leaning towards the slotted only 4000 series DBA's from Man-a-fre with 100 series pads.

 

[landcrusher80]

Go OEM. Paid $408 for 4 new rotors and the OEM pads.

I had the DBA cross drilled and slotted with some high speed pads. Could not tell the difference compared to my OEM set up, with the exception of the pads wearing faster.

Cheers,

LandCrusher80

 

[MSGGrunt]

If I were running a stock Cruiser then I think I would go OEM. With my weight (winch, bumper, sliders, rear tire carrier etc..), my very heavy 38" military Michelins, and the fact that I tow with this vehicle I am looking to purchase something as good as if not even slightly better than OEM. I read lots of good things about the DBA's over on the 60's forum.

 

[panamalexus]

drilling

Sorry to be picky on this but what is mentioned about drilled discs being bling is not realy true. The main reason is that under heavy brakeing gas is formed betwen the pad and disc reducing performance. The drilling disipats this gas improving the brake quality. Slots on the other hand help as well and they also reduce glazing. In conculsion if you drive an mopuntain roads and really give it a blast and brake a lot then go for it. If you drive in NY or go off road then OEM would be the best.

 

[cary]

OEM Rotors. As already stated, the drilled rotors are worthless and slotted rotors are designed to keep pads from glazing and allow the outgassing to go somewhere, which results in faster pad wear.

If you need more braking capacity or bite, go to a Hawk LTS or Performance Friction pad. Be warned, while the Hawks have much more bite than stock and will continue to perform at much higher temperatures, they also squeal.

 

[OGBeno]

OEM. Personally, if you really want brake upgrades, you are going to have to pay serious cash to upgrade caliper size, piston size, brake booster size, etc. If you really want better braking, you are going to have to pay a lot of cash for it.

That said, it seems you might have that cash, so why don't you blaze a trail and upgrade your entire braking system to something that others don't have already.

We are talking about #6000+ vehicles. Your brakes are only going to be as good as the system that you engineer to stop the vehicle. Personally, I can't get going fast enough in my own 80 to really need a serious brake upgrade. OEM and 100 series up front (with new calipers) and pretty much the same in the rear (except for the 100 series pads) and my truck stops fine on the steepest of inclines I've encountered so far...

Good luck.
-onur

 

[MSGGrunt]

An added benefit with going with OEM is that Dan does not charge shipping on anything over $100.00. I would be looking at $130.00 for the DBA 4000 series from Man-a-fre plus shipping on something this heavy from CA to MA will not be cheap. So, I'm rethinking my plan and am now leaning towards the OEM Toyota discs. This will get me a disc that is OEM Toyota quality and be around $100.00 cheaper.

 

[tenncrusher]

I am looking for some new discs for my ride as well......as for cross drilled.....a quick look at my Carrera (and most other high performance sports cars) reveals that I have cross drilled rotors.......and some really, really big calipers. I do not think Porsche would put those on the car unless they were neccessary......and by the way, no matter what I do to this rotors, they do not warp.

TENNKTM

 

[FJason80]

Before I rolled her, I put on the DBA Slotted rotors in the front, and Brembo pads. The stopping power was amazing. I've never seen my Speedo needle drop faster.