Brake Change Due

[YngTLCOwner]

Brakes going to be changed this weekend. I am going to have to replace the rear rotors along w/ front and rear pads. Should I just use OEM rotors or use aftermarket type (Brembo or something similiar)? Also, I plan to bleed the brakes at this time since I have the tires off. Is there anything else that would be good to do at this time while I have the tires off? Thought about replacing the brake lines w/ MAF SS Lines.

Steve

 

[Beowulf]

Steve,

>> Should I just use OEM rotors <<

Yes.

>> Is there anything else that would be good to do at this time while I have the tires off? <<

I would flush the brake system and fill with a good quality brake fluid. Many are using the Valvoline Synthetic DOT3/4.

>> Thought about replacing the brake lines w/ MAF SS Lines. <<

Buy the ones from Christo. His have an external sheath vs plain braided lines. Your brake feel will improve if you do the new fluid, a good bleed, and the SS brake hoses from Slee Offroad.

-B-

 

[nyk438]

OEM Brake rotors yes. You can get dimond plated pads? I think I can't remember exactly what my friend was talkinga bout that he ran on his 80, it's $80 dollars for each...run them in the front since those breaks die first....

 

[Beowulf]

The Toyota 100 series front pads will definitely give you longer pad life and some will say they will give you better braking.

-B-

 

[RavenTai]

I don't know if it will actually give better breaking (the tire traction is the fuse) but the 100 pads defiantly feel better, seams like I have to use less pedal force for the same amount of braking, the Toyota characteristic long free play did not go away :/, I would go with good rotors, OEM are known good, brembos may be good also I don't know, the PO had the front rotors replaced last summer at Midas and they already have slight shimmy on light braking (beginnings of warpage) they also let the pad hang slightly over along the OD, both 80 and 100 pads fit same at the OD

 

[clownmidget]

I would also check the front caliper bolts, retorque and/or apply some loctite. It seems these may have a tendency to loosen, back out a bit, etc. I was told by a Toyota mechanic never to put loctite on these though. He really didn't have a good explanation why, just that he had been told that. Anyone know the reasoning? At any rate, check those bolts and remember to bleed the LSPV when you change the fluid out. Good time to rotate your tires too.
Mike R.

 

[YngTLCOwner]

Beow,
How much is it for Christo Break Line? Also, will his be good if my cruiser is lifted w/ OME Suspension?

Thanks

 

[GXO]

www.sleeoffroad.com

find out for yourself

 

[firetruck41]

Also, maybe you should wait until the next weekend, and call or PM CDan toaday to save loads of $$$ on OEM rotors, and pads. Good prices, quick, free shipping.

 

[Rookie2]

[quote author=clownmidget link=board=2;threadid=16921;start=msg163441#msg163441 date=1085464333]
I would also check the front caliper bolts, retorque and/or apply some loctite. It seems these may have a tendency to loosen, back out a bit, etc. I was told by a Toyota mechanic never to put loctite on these though.
[/quote]

If you're talking about the two bolts that attach the caliper to the steering knuckle, my guess is.. you wouldn't want to put Locktite on them because of the next time you need to get them off. There are various kinds of Locktite, from the "you may be able to get this bolt off in the future" up to the "you can F'n forget it" kind.

The caliper bolts are torqued to 90 ft-lbs... more than any bolt I've turned on this rig. I'd be suprised to hear these can back out from time-to-time, in fact I put some anti-seize on mine.

Maybe your thinking of the studs that hold the knuckle arm on.


Rookie2