Bought our first 100 series
- Thread starter mdemeglio
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks - it was indeed one of those T's. I stopped by Fred Anderson and got two of them and some coolant on the way to see what was going on. Fortunate that it was one of the T's and that I have such a great group of people to lean on. Swapped it out in the parking lot and topped it off and she was on her way. I'll be doing the other T tomorrow and the hoses next week - I would wait and do the hoses with the other T, but I don't want to take the chance she get stranded in holiday traffic. The T literally disolved as I took it apart - exactly as Jason mentioned earlier in this thread. Thanks for all the advice - and especially for the part numbers.
Mike
Mike
Tks - I’ll be replacing some fluids soon... Heater T’s and hoses check, coolant swap check; inner and outer Tie-rods both sides check - I feel like I’m taking up a new hobby lol - as a by-day computer guy I’m actually enjoying getting my hands dirty when I can
- Thread starter
- #24
Quick update. Spent a lot of time cleaning the interior (smoker's car - we didn't know it until it got warmer outside - ugh).
Greased the rear driveshaft (clunk after stopping and starting)
Rear diff and t-case oii change
Rotated tires
Inspect fr & rr brakes - rear needs replacement
Inspect ball joints / hubs - good
Next:
Replace radiator + hoses - ordered Denso 4 core off ebay - current rad is leaking at top tank.
Replace shocks - rear shocks blown/leaking
Grease front hubs
PS fluid flush
Brake fluid flush
Rear brakes
Cooling system flush (with rad swap)
Console shifter lights not working
T-case lock light burned out
Fix navigation "disk missing" problem - might just disconnect the nav dvd player
Sway bar links
Inspect front diff bushing
Replace steering wheel leather cover
Plugs, fuel filter
Replace starter (thinking of a reman Denso off Rockauto)
Inspect CV's
Greased the rear driveshaft (clunk after stopping and starting)
Rear diff and t-case oii change
Rotated tires
Inspect fr & rr brakes - rear needs replacement
Inspect ball joints / hubs - good
Next:
Replace radiator + hoses - ordered Denso 4 core off ebay - current rad is leaking at top tank.
Replace shocks - rear shocks blown/leaking
Grease front hubs
PS fluid flush
Brake fluid flush
Rear brakes
Cooling system flush (with rad swap)
Console shifter lights not working
T-case lock light burned out
Fix navigation "disk missing" problem - might just disconnect the nav dvd player
Sway bar links
Inspect front diff bushing
Replace steering wheel leather cover
Plugs, fuel filter
Replace starter (thinking of a reman Denso off Rockauto)
Inspect CV's
oof - that's the worst - did you get most of the smell out?
I have been using Gates Power Grip hose clamps with great results. They are basically industrial heat shrink. They were developed for big rigs using silicone hoses to stop leaks during freezing weather. Cool thing is that they will tighten with heat cycles if any gaps develop. I've not had one leak aside from initial start up yet. had a small leak, hit it with a heat gun while running and the leak stopped, never came back. More money than standard clamps but well worth it to me. Much cleaner look as well.
Right on!
For the cig smell try one of these worked pretty well for getting the funky smell out of my 100 and my little car:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G16402-Whole-Refresher-Eliminator/dp/B00G49DVGG?tag=ihco-20
For the cig smell try one of these worked pretty well for getting the funky smell out of my 100 and my little car:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G16402-Whole-Refresher-Eliminator/dp/B00G49DVGG?tag=ihco-20
I replaced the following around 234k: starter, alternator, several pulleys, tensioner, the fan bracket (if your fan looks like it is wobly its prob the fan bracket, this is what Toyota missed on my truck and caused me to break down in Utah) A/C compressor and several other things. Everything that was replaced was orginal OEM parts. I should be good to go for awhile now.
Definetly check the grease on the wheel bearings. This was another issue that I had driving cross country, local shop said they were fine and it turns out they were bone dry!
Definetly check the grease on the wheel bearings. This was another issue that I had driving cross country, local shop said they were fine and it turns out they were bone dry!
For cigarette smoke smell, a cup of vinegar left in the truck with the windows closed. It will evaporate and permeate the soft surfaces. May have to do it a couple of times. The smell of the vinegar will dissipate after a few days.
Need to clean the vents A/C system that's usually where the smell lingers
Vodka and a spray bottle on all soft surfaces. works best in hot weather
- Thread starter
- #32
Appreciate all the info, here's what I've done so far:
Ran the cruiser for about 3 hours with the heat on max (it was cold outside) and kept it closed up - I was down to shorts and a t-shirt by the end of this process and it was 20 degrees outside - so the interior was plenty warm. Based on a detailer's forum, I created a 7:1 mix of distilled water and Tide detergent in a spray bottle, wiped down the entire interior by spraying the solution on a microfiber cloth, every nook and cranny (including the headliner), 4 times. Each time, by the time I reached the 2nd row seats the water in the bucket (where I've been rinsing the cloth) has been black. I let the interior completely dry between cleanings. I ordered HVAC "bombs" off autogeek.com and have sprayed all the ducts thoroughly. I also set off an in-car "bomb" (also from autogeek.com) and fogged the entire interior for 4 hours.
The next thing is a deep steam cleaning of the carpet using engine degreaser (highly recommended by detailers) as the shampoo. Then the seats will be cleaned with Maguires all purpose cleaner, dried, and treated with leather conditioner.
As of right now, and granted it's plenty cold outside so smells aren't very pronounced, the car smells really good - the car bomb/fogger was "new car smell" scented and it's pretty nice.
Next week should be warmer so it will probably still have some lingering smell - I've also heard the vinegar trick and will probably try that and/or activated charcoal bags as well (those are just a good idea to have in the car all the time as they neutralize all kinds of bad things).
Installing new OEM shocks today and hopefully the radiator and plugs this weekend. Despite all the "sorting out" that's going on, Joy is in love with this car, way more than I would have guessed, she's named it and always pulls in the driveway beaming from ear to ear.
Thanks for all the info, help, and positive comments - keep 'em coming.
Ran the cruiser for about 3 hours with the heat on max (it was cold outside) and kept it closed up - I was down to shorts and a t-shirt by the end of this process and it was 20 degrees outside - so the interior was plenty warm. Based on a detailer's forum, I created a 7:1 mix of distilled water and Tide detergent in a spray bottle, wiped down the entire interior by spraying the solution on a microfiber cloth, every nook and cranny (including the headliner), 4 times. Each time, by the time I reached the 2nd row seats the water in the bucket (where I've been rinsing the cloth) has been black. I let the interior completely dry between cleanings. I ordered HVAC "bombs" off autogeek.com and have sprayed all the ducts thoroughly. I also set off an in-car "bomb" (also from autogeek.com) and fogged the entire interior for 4 hours.
The next thing is a deep steam cleaning of the carpet using engine degreaser (highly recommended by detailers) as the shampoo. Then the seats will be cleaned with Maguires all purpose cleaner, dried, and treated with leather conditioner.
As of right now, and granted it's plenty cold outside so smells aren't very pronounced, the car smells really good - the car bomb/fogger was "new car smell" scented and it's pretty nice.
Next week should be warmer so it will probably still have some lingering smell - I've also heard the vinegar trick and will probably try that and/or activated charcoal bags as well (those are just a good idea to have in the car all the time as they neutralize all kinds of bad things).
Installing new OEM shocks today and hopefully the radiator and plugs this weekend. Despite all the "sorting out" that's going on, Joy is in love with this car, way more than I would have guessed, she's named it and always pulls in the driveway beaming from ear to ear.
Thanks for all the info, help, and positive comments - keep 'em coming.
- Thread starter
- #34
It's been below 20 degrees here for two weeks, yep - I'll take you up on that offer!
- Thread starter
- #35
Front and rear shocks replaced, rear shock was completely blown. Picked up some OEM's at Fred Anderson for like $33 ea. Tokico brand. Front's were cake, the rears seemed like they'd be easy but couldn't quite get my big hands up in the frame where I needed them - plus you have to put a pipe wrench on the shock tubes to keep them from spinning - add the 20 degree temps and the darkness (never could get light where I needed it) and it was not the most fun I've had in the garage - but it's done.
Dropped the belly pans last night and changed the front diff oil as well - didn't look bad and the magnet had only minimal stuff on it.
Front and rear sway bar links have been added to "the list" - they're toast.
Hopefully the new radiator will be here soon, I had to ground this bird because it's leaking so bad now, not worth taking the risk.
Also lubed the ignition key switch with dry film lube - made a huge difference in the amount of effort getting the key in and out. Got to do the seat belt guide cleaning next, pain in the butt trying to get that thing to retract.
Warmer weather on the horizon as well which means it can finally get washed, clay barred, compounded, polished, and waxed.
Dropped the belly pans last night and changed the front diff oil as well - didn't look bad and the magnet had only minimal stuff on it.
Front and rear sway bar links have been added to "the list" - they're toast.
Hopefully the new radiator will be here soon, I had to ground this bird because it's leaking so bad now, not worth taking the risk.
Also lubed the ignition key switch with dry film lube - made a huge difference in the amount of effort getting the key in and out. Got to do the seat belt guide cleaning next, pain in the butt trying to get that thing to retract.
Warmer weather on the horizon as well which means it can finally get washed, clay barred, compounded, polished, and waxed.
woot! looks like @custyota is on the hook now!
- Thread starter
- #37
I stopped by to see @mdemeglio this weekend - he is very understated in how nice this 100 is! I suspect by the time he's done with cleanup and maintenance, it'll look and drive practically new.
Not sure Beno is doing too much of the Cruiser parts for us non-regular customers. If you have a good long standing customer relationship with him, he may hook you up. If not, take those part numbers, put them into the Fred Anderson Toyota Online parts website, do the local pickup option and you can pick them up probably next day for a similar cost from Beno with shipping.
Yes, you have to drive over to FAT to pick them up, but you’ll still save a few bucks.
Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories | parts.fredandersontoyota.com
Yes, you have to drive over to FAT to pick them up, but you’ll still save a few bucks.
Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories | parts.fredandersontoyota.com