bought an 85 BJ60

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Aug 15, 2009
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Nelson, BC, Canada
Just bought an 85 BJ60 with a surprisingly good body.
However, the round tubing crossmember between the frame sides above the rear axle that the shocks are bolted to, has broken off. (rust) I will be welding in a new section, my question is...does it have to be round stock? or can it be anything with some strength such as channel iron? I don't assume that it is absolutly critical if the shocks arn't mounted in the persice location as they were from the factory.

Also, I want to reinforce the frame in the usual rot areas below the rear doors. any good aproach to doing this? I was planning on cutting some patches out of 3/8 plate and welding them on in "stiches" so I don't overheat any part of the frame.

Another question....are the Injection pumps lubricated by engine oil on the B series motors? I noticed that the alternators are.
 

BGarcia88FJ62

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Welcome to the site :flipoff2:.
If it were me I'd replace the entire cross member/shock mounting tube. I'm thinking if one one is rotted the other end can't be too far behind. I't doesn't have to be round tube you can make it out of square tube if you wish. Measure the shock mount locations on the existing tube and duplicate their locations on what you fab up and your good. IMO 3/8" plate is way overkill, 1/4" or even 3/16" plate should be more than sufficient. Cut the ends of your patches in a <, or ( shape to avoid welding directly to the frame in a straight line so I've been told and seen on some frame repair threads. Search the site there's plenty of threads on the subject.
As far as the Injector pump I have no idea I live in the land of gassers. Good luck with the work and post some pic's up and buy a star to help support the site.
:beer:
 
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Nelson, BC, Canada
Thanks for the advice. Ya I found some heavy gauge round tubing that I will use.

Good advice on the frame patches being angle off...thanks.
 
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Got my patches welded on the usual soft spots.
Im thinking of welding some more on up the side of the frame just for good measure. Good idea?


And what kind of lube do I use for the T-case, tranny and axles? Can I put a few onces of Lucas oil stabilizer in each of them? Thats what I always do with my other rigs. Does the H55 tranny have an issue with loosing 5th gear? ...do to low oil level or just wear and tear.
 
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Oh that makes sense. That must be why I see lines running from there to that canister on the passenger side firewall.

Any thoughts on the tranny oil? Manual calls for SAE 90....can't even find any that is a straight 90. Thinking about running an 85w-140
 
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Bowmanville, Ontario
I use amsoil products in everything I own and drive.

In my HJ60 I run Amsoil's SEVERE GEAR 75W-110 Synthetic EP Lubricant in the axles, transfercase and trans. It works great.
 
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Try and save the factory upper shock bolts. Clean them up with a grinder and weld them into the round tube you plan on replacing/repairing the cross member with.

I performed this repair a few years back. I will take some photographs of the finished product and post back here shortly.
 
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Photos of my repair as promised.
Don't mind the surface rust.

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Nelson, BC, Canada
Thanks for those great pics!! My factory shock mounting bolts were beyond salvaging.....very ugly.
And I ended up welding 3'' C channel between th frame rails and used 4 inch grade 8 bolts welded to the c channel and welded supports to the bolt shank o 3 sides for support.
It wont be as strong as the factory crossmember going right through the frame but it will be good enough for what i do.

I also just coated my frame with used oil in attempt to slow down the rust. Will see how that works.
 
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Nelson, BC, Canada
On a 60 series, is it possible to replace the rear inner fender wells with a replacement/aftermarket fender well?

How about rocker panels?


And how difficult is it to lift the body off ther frame for get at all the rusty areas more easily? It would also make frame repair a much less difficult task.
 
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May 19, 2008
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quesnel b.c.
depends on your rust situation really? my rockers are toast and i plan to do a rocker chop, some threads on this around

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/423453-pic-request-trimmed-rocker-panels.html

comes out pretty nice actually.

Rear wheel wells you might be able to graft in some of those steel trailer fenders princess auto sells? I have yet to tackle mine but its in the works.

Post up some better shots of the rusty so we can get a better idea. Oh btw nice to see another diesel from b.c.!
 
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Try and save the factory upper shock bolts. Clean them up with a grinder and weld them into the round tube you plan on replacing/repairing the cross member with.

I performed this repair a few years back. I will take some photographs of the finished product and post back here shortly.

I did this exact repair last weekend. I too reused the shock mounting studs. Just cut them off and reweld. I also replaced the whole bar. I was in the process of just repairing the one side and found the other side was about to fall apart also. Funny enough, this was really one of the only spots i have with rust. The c-channel is the other spot, but thats a repair for another day.
 
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Nelson, BC, Canada
Im on slower that usual dial up internet that will not allow me to upload some rust pics. The fender wells are otherwise solid except for about 5 or six inches on the bottom back, (the end closest to tailgate) where there is actually nothing left anymore. I can stand beside the truck and see the rear most body mounts through the missing section of wheel well:doh:

Is is difficult to lift the body off to do a proper repair to wheel wells or any other section for that matter?

Thank-you
 

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