Bosch Alternator? (1 Viewer)

[twoturtlesracing]

Is this a factory alternator? I looked at a bunch of threads and some other websites and i'm not finding the info I need. As far as I can tell, it looks toyota, but my factory voltage regulator is bypassed, so is this an internally regulated alt? I'm trying to figure out the best and cleanest spot to re-wire my idle cut off solenoid, and was going to go the the factory VR, but no juice there! Plus I have a stock alternator coming in today but am wondering if it is the wrong one now!
Alternator pics on facebook. Please click on link! Coe Guthrie's Photos | Facebook

 

[John Smith]

The stock unit would have been manufactured by Nippondenso, your Bosch unit is a replacement.

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Thanks for the response John Smith! And I'm not very knowledgeable about electrical so please bear with me... So this is a bosch unit? Is it meant to be a bolt in replacemant for the nippondenso? And is it internally regulated? Thanks for your help in advance guys!

 

[John Smith]

If the alt says Bosch on it then it is a Bosch manufactured unit and is a direct replacement for your stock Nippondenso alt. Both should be externally regulated unless someone swapped in a internally regulated unit into your truck. I looked at your picture and that looks to me like a externally regulated alt.

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Darn PO's and their undocumented wiring!

Well, I took it out and turned it around looked at it all over can't find anything on it for words! So i'm wondering what the PO did for a voltage regulator? Mine stock VR has no juice going to it with the key on, and I can't find anything else that looks remotely like a VR...

 

[Coolerman]

That is an externally regulated alternator. Your first post states that the regulator was bypassed. What do you mean by that and how was it done?

For reference: The two wires in the plug in the back of the alternator (White/Black and White/Green) should go back to the regulator. The WB will connect the E terminal (there may also be another WB wire connected here) and the WG will connect to the F terminal. There should also be a Black/Yellow wire which will connect to the IG terminal on the regulator. The BY wire should have +12V when the key is on. If it doesn't then check the fuses.

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Ok! I think that I'm figuring this out!

Thanks for giving me the advice Coolerman. Your right. I traced the wires back and it is still connected. Didn't have juice because I had a fuse gone. I replaced it and now have juice. (I don't know why the PO had that fuse gone... Hope it's not a sign of a short somewhere! Oh well, cross that bridge when we come to it I guess.) So I ran a wire from the Idle fuel cut off solenoid and soldered to the BY connector. (Pulled the BY connector out of the IG(?) connector, opened it up, and soldered the new wire onto the BY. Put all back together and into the IG connector. Came out looking nice and clean.) Long winded I know, but hope you approve! Thanks again! I owe you one!

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Arg!

So I went to pick up my new alternator and while I was at it I had them test my old one because i didn't trust the guy that did it the other day. It tested good. Go figure. So I brought it home, put it back on, and noticed that when I went to put the White/blue wire on the back of the Alt. it was hot. This is probably a dumb question, but that's not supposed to be hot is it? When the key is off and it's not hooked to anything under the hood? I did hook it back up-how it was when I found it- but the ammeter is still reading low and the battery is not charging. Any thoughts? I'd sure appreciate it! (btw, The Old Cruse is idleing beautifully with the idle solenoid hooked up! Thanks guys!) Also, I put the common end of my voltmeter on the negative battery post and the positive on the alt and it's reading about 34 volts. Is that the correct thing to do?

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Thankyou!

Thanks, in advance, for all the help guys!

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Hey guys, Just trying to bump this back up to the top... Does anyone know why the white and blue wire to my alternator is hot? Is it supposed to be? Even when the key is off? And which conection on my alt does it go to? (I'm still waiting on my fsm. Sorry to ask such mundane questions! ) Thanks Guys!

 

[FJ40Jim]

To answer the original question, that is a ND alternator. It has a "Reman by Bosch" sticker on it. It was not manufactured by bosch.

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Hey JimC! Thanks for the info. Although I guess I don't know what I'm looking at. I can't find the sticker. Where do I look?

 

[Coolerman]

Hope you didn't run it for long with the B+ disconnected. The diodes in the alternator don't like that too much...

Try to stick with ONE thread about you problem, it makes it hard to help you when you post in several threads about the same thing.

The WL wire attaches to the B+ terminal on the alternator. There may be two studs labeled B, choose the larger one. This wire actually ends up connected to the battery+ after powering the unswitched fuses and the switched fuses through the key switch and finally the amp meter. It will ALWAYS be hot. Careful! It might also be unprotected if your fusible link is gone! A dead short on this large wire can create a smoke screen the military would envy.

If your alternator tested good then that leaves the regulator as the reason for a no charge condition. If you now have power to the IG wire on the regulator and the WB wire is connected (and grounded properly), AND the WG wire is connected and you still do not have around 14 volts measured at the battery while the engine is running, then you have a bad regulator. Replace it and go on.

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Thanks Coolerman. Sorry about the multiple threads. Won't happen again. I will see about getting a new VR. What are you guys thoughts on those. Should I go back with factory? I've seen some guys on here have gone to what they call a solid state VR. Is that something I should do? Also, Coolerman: I'm not sure about checking the grounds. Should I just go through and check all the ones I can find?

 

[Coolerman]

Grounding is the single biggest problem on the FJ40 wiring system.

Here are some things to do to help keep electrical grounding problems from driving you nuts.

Pull the battery cables off the battery, clean the terminals with a wire brush. Trace the negative cable to where it connects to the frame. Pull that and clean the frame, the cable end and the bolt to bare metal and reassemble. Paint this connection with paint to help it stay sealed from water. Find the engine ground cable that goes from the frame to the starter mounting stud and repeat the clean procedure on both ends.

Leave the battery cables disconnected until you are done!

Remove the regulator for the firewall. Clean the surface of the regulator mounting flange where the bolts are to good bare metal. Chase the threads of the bolt holes with a 6mm x 1.0 tap. Clean the WB wire terminal to bare metal. This WB wire is the MAIN ground for the cowl harness. It must be grounded properly. Remount the regulator.

Make sure the alternator body is grounded to the mounting bracket. I personally use a separate ground wire for this. The alternator self grounds if the mounting ears on the alternator and the mounting bracket are cleaned to bare metal before mounting. If you have painted or powder coated the alternator mounting bracket you may need to remove the coating under one of the bolt heads so the bracket can get a good ground to the engine. Note: If the alternator is not grounded well through it's body, it will attempt to use the tiny 18 ga regulator ground in the plug which will promptly go up in smoke...

While your at it, pull each fuse, one at a time and using a Dremel tool with a wire brush mounted or a .22 muzzle cleaning brush from a gun cleaning kit, and clean the fuse contacts. Also if the ends of the fuses look dull clean them up also. Steel wool is good for this.

You can continue this by removing each bulb in the brake and turn signal/marker light housings and cleaning the sockets and bulbs to bare metal. Where the housing bolts to the body, make sure that is cleaned to bare metal.

The solid state regulator will work fine if they have the one for your 75. The old mechanicals are getting harder to find. This is one of the reasons a lot of folks go to the GM or later model Toyota internally regulated alternators.
Good luck!

 

[twoturtlesracing]

I will work on the grounds after work. I'm also going to just order myslf a new regulator. I'll update you all on my progress. Thanks!

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Making Progress!

I cleaned up the resistor connections, the grounds in the engine bay, and the battery cables. And I have a charging battery now! Thanks for the input guys! My ammeter is bouncing around a little, but I imagine after cleaning up the fuse box and finding the rest of the grounds I'll be good to go. I read a thread on that the other day, I may look it up again. I also still need to clean up the tailight bulbs and etc. But I'm a happy camper and the rest of that is easy stuff! The cruiser is running great, probably better that it has for years. I can't believe what a difference that little fuel idle shut off solenoid makes! Thanks again guys, and happy cruisen!