Bolts in my rotor? WTF? (1 Viewer)

[Seek Help]

About 40 mins ago, some jackass cut me off coming to a red light and I had to lock up the brakes. From there I started getting a metal grinding sound here and there. At first I thought it was a rattling clip came off, so a pad was bouncing around. But then something literally prevented my wheel from turning at low speeds. I went straight home to see the issue and I found a bolt wedged in between my lower control arm and the inside of the rotor(see pic). I found another bolt completely sheered off at the head within the rotor fins.

I haven't taken off the rotor yet because I'm dreading the retarded process in removing the hub just to get to the rotor.

Issue and reason I am posting, is anyone have an idea on where these 2 bolts could have come from? It looks like the bolts from the truck but everything looks accounted for. I am totally lost here.

 

[FxFormat]

Yikes might be the bolts that holds the hub to the rotor

 

[Seek Help]

Yikes might be the bolts that holds the hub to the rotor

Oh, you were right. once I took off the spacer I could see it. Argh. Now I fear the otherside is just as bad or getting there.

I do have to say one thing, if you are going to do something, do it yourself. Relied on a shop to torque those down after they broke the old ones loose since I didn't have the tools to hold down the rotor and torque it....

 

[aging fleet]

I didn't have the tools to hold down the rotor and torque it....

Snug down the rotor bolts then attach the assembly to the wheel (the one you removed from the car), the size and weight of the wheel and tire makes it easy to break loose/re-torque those bolts. Can't remember if I stood or sat on the wheel as I was torquing the rotor bolts, but that's an option to make sure it doesn't move around.

 

[Seek Help]

Snug down the rotor bolts then attach the assembly to the wheel (the one you removed from the car), the size and weight of the wheel and tire makes it easy to break loose/re-torque those bolts. Can't remember if I stood or sat on the wheel as I was torquing the rotor bolts, but that's an option to make sure it doesn't move around.

Great idea! Thanks for the tip.

 

[gatormark91]

Snug down the rotor bolts then attach the assembly to the wheel (the one you removed from the car), the size and weight of the wheel and tire makes it easy to break loose/re-torque those bolts. Can't remember if I stood or sat on the wheel as I was torquing the rotor bolts, but that's an option to make sure it doesn't move around.

^this

 

[3_puppies]

recent service?

 

[Seek Help]

recent service?

actually this was done back in April. I haven't even been offroading yet.

 

[3_puppies]

actually this was done back in April. I haven't even been offroading yet.

I'd check the other side also.

 

[Ayune]

I used blue loctite when I torqued mine down last month after a bearing repack. Totally buried and can’t re-check them once reassembled. EDIT: See post #14 below.

 

[Ambledog]

Son of a biscuit, that's one heck of bad deal. thanks for sharing, another great tip you've given us and example of why we work on these ourselves most of the time. Since I've been on mud, I could never imagined mechanics would do so many things wrong, incorrect, forgetful, who knows, but causing the customer issue after issue due to poor workmanship.

 

[DTCsk8er]

Snug down the rotor bolts then attach the assembly to the wheel (the one you removed from the car), the size and weight of the wheel and tire makes it easy to break loose/re-torque those bolts. Can't remember if I stood or sat on the wheel as I was torquing the rotor bolts, but that's an option to make sure it doesn't move around.

I did this exact same thing, definitely standing on the rotor while I tightened them down. This process was also used in breaking them loose for me.

 

[Ayune]

I stood the rotors on edge and stuck a long screwdriver through the venting to keep it from rotating while torquing.

 

[Ayune]

I used blue loctite when I torqued mine down last month after a bearing repack. Totally buried and can’t re-check them once reassembled.

Actually, I realized today these bolts CAN be inspected after installation. Remove the wheel and you can see the ends of the screws protruding outward by a couple millimeters. They should all be the same. If one's backing out it's time to pull that rotor!

 

[3_puppies]

Actually, I realized today these bolts CAN be inspected after installation. Remove the wheel and you can see the ends of the screws protruding outward by a couple millimeters. They should all be the same.

View attachment 2186344
View attachment 2186345
View attachment 2186346

IIRCC @2001LC removed a wheel and the bolt wasn't all the way thru, upon further examination it was cross threaded and run in with an impact by a previous "mechanic"

 

[Seek Help]

Here was the dmg that 2 bolts did in just a few miles. Still need to check the other side.

I did use enough blue locktite and placing it in the wheel method to torque it down. Worked very well. Thanks guys for the tip.

 

[chudly]

what should these be torqued down to?

 

[AlpineAccess]

what should these be torqued down to?

From the FSM it was 54 ft lbs

First time I've seen this - that sucks and would have to have been very loose to rotate itself out.

Might be worth throwing a paint pen mark on the rotor hat and exposed bolt threads.

 

[ramangain]

Best to pull that all apart and see if the seals/spindle got compromised too.